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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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General Discussion
General Chit-Chat
Exhaust Stud Removal
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<blockquote data-quote="dan filipi" data-source="post: 66746" data-attributes="member: 54"><p>The exhaust studs have more threads on one end than the other so make sure to screw in the shorter threaded end into the head. I think it was Mcgovern discovered this and the shorter studs are designed to tighten down to the unthreaded section into the head. If running the longer threaded end in, and you keep cranking it in it could bottom out, strip the threads, or blow thru the bottom.</p><p></p><p>I use the double nut method, they come right out but for broken stud I think welding on a nut is a good idea. Broken flush then use easy out.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dan filipi, post: 66746, member: 54"] The exhaust studs have more threads on one end than the other so make sure to screw in the shorter threaded end into the head. I think it was Mcgovern discovered this and the shorter studs are designed to tighten down to the unthreaded section into the head. If running the longer threaded end in, and you keep cranking it in it could bottom out, strip the threads, or blow thru the bottom. I use the double nut method, they come right out but for broken stud I think welding on a nut is a good idea. Broken flush then use easy out. [/QUOTE]
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Exhaust Stud Removal
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