GL1100 high performance brakes.

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colemjo4

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vero beach fl
Hey guys. Does anyone have any ideas on improvements for the GL1100 brakes other than, " change to ss lines, new pads" etc? i mean ia m used to being able to stop REALLY quick if necessary. (ex racer) i scared the snot out of myself Sunday when I actually hit a truck that quick-stopped in front of me. About 4" too long a roll. My cbr and CBf stop NOW!
 
colemjo4":2tn4qjsm said:
not me...no lock on either wheel, every bit of grip and foot I had too.
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Then you need brake work done! :shock:

When these brakes are working correctly and does take a bit to stop because of weight, but it stops fairly quick. Stomp on the rear brake pedal and that wheel will always lock. I would be under the opinion your brake fluid is no good, your pads are worn, rotors might be glazed, pistons might be stuck (or sticking) O-rings in calipers are hard and brake hose are soft. I would take a good look at those items first!
 
Well one big factor is going to be the weight difference. Your cbr and cbr dry weight at under 400 lbs. dry weight of the 1100 is over 700 lbs. momentum is velocity times mass. You are moving about twice the weight at the same speed. No way can you stop that in the same, or near distance
 
You cant beat the Cbr for braking ability ( light bike with heaps of brakes). I was going to buy a CB900 after 20 years away from riding and after being on the CBR I didn't want the reduced technology ( goes and stops heaps better). In 2011 I rode a 2010 Road King down CA highway one and got a bit keen through the twisties and even with ABS and triple discs was out of shape. Got home to Oz and rode my CBR1000 and it felt like I was on a 250 after the weight of the Road King. I was thinking about doing an upgrade conversion to the GW when it is back here in Oz using CBR parts but I think that with the weight and the skinny tires I don't think it will be worth it. Horses for courses!
 
Coming from a cage to a bike, I didn't realize how much gearing doesn't help you slow down. I was petrified of not being able to stop quick enough. A fellow Wing rider told me you had to pull the clutch to make a quick stop. I was amazed with the improvement! If you haven't tried that, give it some practice. I think it cut the distance more than two times shorter. Mine are 77's, which are worse than 1100's. People claim stainless steel lines help. Another thing to check is if your rotors are glazed. They can be resurfaced.
 
When I first got my 83 it didn't stop well. First of my rotors were too thin, so I found a good set on Ebay, turned them, new pads, and kited both cylinders, and obviously flushed the system. All three calibers worked well so I didn't mess with them. She stops very well now, but as already stated, she is a heavy bike and isn't going to stop like alight weight. You didn't say what year yours is but the 83 brakes are different. Your foot brake controls rear and one front brake and your hand brake only controls one front brake. Working them together makes the bike stop really well for her size.
 
Could fit brakes from newer bikes but that would require a lot of machining and fitting along with custom brackets. If you have your own machine shop and the cash go for it. As for myself I plan to drill the rotors and install braided steel lines. Until I do I'll just leave a bit more distance ahead .
 
slabghost":ofo8t34f said:
As for myself I plan to drill the rotors and install braided steel lines. Until I do I'll just leave a bit more distance ahead .
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What is the advantage of drilling the rotors other than "Cool factor"? It seems like a lot of work.
 
Not really sure but it seems to me that cooler lighter rotors is a good thing and the holes themselves should allow slight penetration of the brake material. Seems to me that would add stopping power but eat brake pads a little faster. I put drilled rotors on my subaru and it seems to me to have more stopping power. Not many new bikes with solid rotors either. I may be entirely wrong here..
 
I redid the brakes on my '83 Aspy-
*new Metzler ME880's
*S/S brake lines
*rebuild of all 3 wheel cylinders
*rebuild of both master cylinders
*rotors turned/drilled by truDisc
*new EBC brake pads
*new DOT4 fluid.

I now have confidence in the brakes to stop a heavy bike (within the laws of physics). Having the linked brakes means you MUST MUST use the pedal to get maximum stopping force- something I had to get used to.....
 
mcgovern61":11168e04 said:
slabghost":11168e04 said:
As for myself I plan to drill the rotors and install braided steel lines. Until I do I'll just leave a bit more distance ahead .
Click to expand...
What is the advantage of drilling the rotors other than "Cool factor"? It seems like a lot of work.
Click to expand...
The main reason is to aid heat dissipation. Brakes work by converting the rotational forces into heat.
 
As for myself I plan to drill the rotors and install braided steel lines. Until I do I'll just leave a bit more distance ahead .
Click to expand...

I think you have a really good idea. :clapping:

If done right I don't think it would increase pad wear, but even if it did the benifits may out way increased wear factor.
 
Drilling rotors offers 1big big plus. In wet conditions the brakes will not hydroplane. The brakes are working at maximum levels right away. In dry conditions there is a marginal improvement because the pads are always a little cleaner. As far as cooling I think the drilled rotors don't offer an advantage because brakes generate heat and when you drill rotors you remove mass which absorbs heat. Same BTU heat gain in less mass means that the mass gets hotter. That being said I doubt 10% of street bikers over heat their brakes.
I think the guy above should rebuild his brakes, drill the rotors, install SS lines and he would see a huge improvement in his braking.
 

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