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Frankenwing

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Feb 23, 2019
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Hello, my name is Justin. Having fun with a new build, gl1100 frame with a gl1200 motor. Looking around for advice and ideas. There was a guy on here I came from YouTube for with a gl1200 with 1100 heads and 1000 cams. Was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks guys.
 
Thanks for the warm welcome guys. Brianinpa that is what I ended up doing with the final drive. I didn't think it was that easy then I put in the 83 shaft and was done. Made me feel mechanico lol.
 
Hey Joedrum, thanks for stopping by. Have been reading your threads about your mods. This seems interesting and I might have an extra motor to try this with. I'm trying to do as much reading as I can before I ask questions that you probably already answered. I guess my biggest one though is the 1000 cams. Is the 75 cams the only year I should go with? I have seen cams that say 75 to 79 so I wasn't sure if it mattered. Thanks in advance for letting me pick your brain.
 
The only cams that are the most aggressive are the 75-77 year bikes ..they are called 371 cams but in reality there the only cams that don’t have a number on them ...don’t use the 78-79 1000 cams they are actually the mildest cams of any oldwing 4 motors ...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=208656#p208656:h2iyraou said:
joedrum » Today- 3:33[/url]":h2iyraou]
The only cams that are the most aggressive are the 75-77 year bikes ..they are called 371 cams but in reality there the only cams that don’t have a number on them ...don’t use the 78-79 1000 cams they are actually the mildest cams of any oldwing 4 motors ...
Click to expand...
That worked out perfect then for me. I have a guy that was going to sell me 76 heads complete for 20 each. So I have an 85 1200 motor that I'm pretty sure will fire, with 83 1100 heads and 76 1000 cams, I was thinking about starting from scratch with this one though. I have an 80 frame with most of the parts but pretty rough shape. I will do some more reading before I get to the next part. Was looking to do new ignition and pulse generator. Thanks for the help so far. :rocks:
 
Ok ...the 1100 frame is good frame to use motor dam near fits good ....the 84 1200 motor fit period and if you change out the rear ignition setup ....into 84 motor all the wiring just hooks up ...as for me I went with c5 ignition...simply the best after market ignition or accessory ever made for oldwings period in my opinion ....I’m not sure there even avalible anymore what a total same if there not...anyway with 76 heads you should use the ignition on the head and dump the 1100 set up in my opinion ...to many parts you can’t get replaced now ..more options to keep it going ...you will have to do piston relief for valves on intake side not to hit pistons ...I just did it with a grinder but I have very smart hands with tools in them ...just did it a couple months ago on a new motor for my bike spent less than an hr on it ....the gearing in the 85 motor is great gearing ....oh you really have to change entire stock carburation system in my opinion ..I hav seen no build that close to mine operate good with stock carbs ...I use weber carb progressive two barrel DFT carb highly modified ...this is where the actual super work to make all come together mod is at ...if done right you have a bike that will never look bad even against the crotch rocket bikes ..they better be ready ...the execution time on my bike is instant and does not sputter ...0 to redline torque curve ...what power is hidden in this setup over stock Honda stuff .....you have to be determined I was took me some time. To get the induction system right .....
 
This is definitely turning interesting. I appreciate the input on all of this. I gave a call to the owner of c5 ignitions and we talked for a good minute about his system and what could be used. He does still carry t it for the 1000 the only thing I would need to get is the housing. So I think I have most the info to give this a try, my next question would be about your carb set up. You said heavily modified progressive carb. Which carb and what would the mods you did to it to make it work good? I can make the intake part so not too concerned that way, also did you use the mechanical fuel pump since the 1100 heads were back on? Thanks for the help.
 
Ok if you can get c5 ignition get it ...best aftermarket oldwing product ever in my opinion...I did use the machanical pump for a long time ...problem is the car carb mounts so high it always drains back into the tank and you had to crank it every time like it was out of gas ...I currently use the 1200 motor fuel pump on my bike ...it fires up instantly ...I also have a manual switch on it so I can drain the carb dry if I want ...witch I do for reason I’ll get at in a second when talking about carb...in next post about carb
 
Ok .. I have to admit I knew nothing about the carb I tried ...as luck would have it using numbers game I figured it was right size ...and brand ...my carb is a DFT weber clone motor craft hmmm 4400 lol that’s probably a lie my memory is the biggest liar about me...anyway the DFT carb weber clone I use is the biggest in this weber carb style refers to as 32-34 and mine has no power valve crap on it ....it’s been blocked at factory....the DFT carb series is a epa junk carb ..stuff like mix screw is blocked from adjusting ..most have non adjustable power valve to overcome lean set up ...altitude crap ..electric choke and so on ...me what I wanted was a strait carb dial in just rich enough it doesn’t need choke ..they only block air when open all the way ..stripped of all epa bull shit ...so I modified and modified and modified till I got this carb the way I needed it ....there are many ways to modify a junk epa carb ..I made many mistakes along the way and one I still deal with ...these carbs come with a fuel shut soleniod that’s called a anti dieseling device it’s much more than that ..it was suggested by so called gurus that this should be taken off ...my first move and it was a mistake cause if this is not used the idle and off idle circuit will drain into manifold ...it’s why I have manual cut off on my electric fuel pump now to run the carb dry after running ...so setting up this carb I know a lot about ...basically this has few moving parts ..throttle plates and excellerator pump ...every thing else is jetting gas and air ...emulsion tubes and some fixed air bleeds ...

The one big mod I did was separate the idle circuit and off idle circuit..this gave me 5 different circuits to adjust to cover rpm range from 0 to redline rpm and it’s instant response beats a lot of bikes out there ...nothing like execution time of 0 ..I refer to cv carbs last to work ....if you go here I’ll help all I can ...I will say I’ve had this a long time now easiest system to reverse keep up once right..basic flaw in car carbs is idle circuit to big always rich ...car jetting way to small ...even though oldwing motor is smaller it really grows when rpm doubles or more over bigger car motors ...

Also everyone thinks heat is needed to car carb set ups ...my system is totally cold charge ...the induction system is totally insulated from the heads heat with plywood gaskets ...this brings huge power to the motor ...I love reaching down and feeling the cool runners after running it a long time ....with my custom advance curves and cool induction system and modded 1200 motor I’ll run it against anything oldwing turbo supper charge or what ever ...this this is instant and never skips a beat .....but this area is the hardest and most rewarding work ...
 
Truth is actually it’s hard to tell you of a few mods that are sure bike makers ...even gearing of bike changes from my bike to yours makes carb dail in different...I just switch from 86 1200 motor to 84 1200 motor and dial in had to change as the load on motor is different now ....so I’m dealing with that now a bit ...I like the gearing change seems to be about 300 rpm at 80mph lower and keeps that load difference in all the gears seems to want more gas and it’s jetted huge already ...my mods are radicle and I don’t even have a idle mix screw anymore ...I use that opening to introduce more air to the idle circuit and made what I call a idle jet sleeve that is flated one side to allow gas into the mix screw channel making a new circuit for the idle only ...the air bleed tube runs up into the air box...this allows maximum gas to the off idle circuit as the motor needs the gas instantly ....in stock form the idle circuit get flooded way rich...you can’t adjust out....secret here is you can’t come off idle good unless it idle perfect and clean ...idle is the hardest part to get right...and as said the stock circuit is a mismatch in my book....DFT carbs are basically economy carbs and the second barrel comes in at 2/3 throttle I’ve changed that to about 1/2 throttle ...poin t being a strait like this setup be progressive linkage ..in effect the carb grows as the motor rpm does and it response is instant ....hope this gives you something to grasp ....in your thinking
 
Thanks for all the feed back, I had to get off for a bit had a weld test had to practice for. I am now also a proud owner of a gl1000 75 with 16000 on the odometer traded for a xr650l so have been very distracted :0fftopic: . I'm a little bit out before I go full scale into this build but can't wait to try it out. Will give you an update when I start diving in. Thanks again for all the help :music: oh here's the new bike, gotta show it a bit lol
 

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