Need to replace front brakes, Need info PLZ

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The pads I got were on sale at my local Honda dealer and they sell EBC pads. My experience with Sabercylce is mixed, I got some real good tools and other accessories, but she almost killed me when I asked why they do not take PayPal on the Ebay site! She not so gently reminded me that they "terms and conditions are posted" and the "DO NOT TAKE PAYPAL"!!!!!!!! :help:

I backed down and retreated as quickly as possible! (Didn't buy anything else either!) The brake pads I got from them did wear out in less than 4K miles, BUT, my brakes were dragging.

I did get some cool tools, a carb sync kit that I really like (not cheap now but was 1/2 price when I got them and the adjuster nut wrench/driver for adjusting the carb screws.
 

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VegasWingnut":1gvfiia3 said:
If I may add a tip. You might want to get a 3" c clamp. Depending on how much the pads have worn, you might have to set the pistons back in the caliper to get the new pads to fit around the rotors. Just use one of your old pads and the c clamp and with gentle pressure, set the pistons back in the caliper. Its not hard. Also use a rag to cover the caliper to avoid scratching.
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Like Vegas I used a "C" clamp but mine is 6 inches.. because of the cars I have worked on the clamp would not slide over the caliper housing.. I run mine into the cup with the base on the outside of the caliper.. and the spindle shaft goes into the cup/piston... and then i slowly turn it down and watch the boots to keep the pinching from happening.. I now have a vise grip locking "C" pliers I am gonna try next time..
 
Well I got the pads in the mail yesterday. They are made by Baracuda? I still cant get over how small they are. My doughter said "they'r cute, what are they?" :smilie_happy: They are metalic pads so (THEORETICLY) they should last a while (I hope) :beg: .
 
Hey guys we all know that our brakes are one of the most important parts on our bikes. There are four general types of brake pads. I just wanted throw this infor out for you all.

Semimetallic: This formula, containing about 30 to 65 percent metal, typically includes chopped steel wool or wire, iron powder, copper or graphite mixed with inorganic fillers, and friction modifiers that bond all the ingredients together. These pads are more durable and have excellent heat transfer, but also wear down rotors faster, can be noisy, and may not perform optimally at low temperatures. Considering the price of motorcycle rotors I wouldn’t recommend this type of pad for a bike.

Nonasbestos organic: Sometimes listed as organic or NAO, this type of pad is made from fibers, such as glass, rubber, carbon, and Kevlar, with filler materials and high-temperature resins. These pads are softer and create less noise, but they wear faster and create more dust. They will also fade quicker when hot, not good on a bike.

Low-metallic NAO: These are made from an organic formula mixed with small amounts (10 to 30 percent) of copper or steel to help with heat transfer and provide better braking. With the added metal, there is more brake dust and they may be slightly noisier.

Ceramic: These are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials, bonding agents, and possibly small amounts of metal. Lighter in color and more expensive than other brake pads, ceramic pads are cleaner and quieter, and offer excellent braking characteristics without wearing down the rotors.

Personally I wold like ceramic pads on my bike, however I don’t know if they are available, I will do some checking. Brakes are one area I don'’ think we want to be cheap on, but that is just me.

Many times pads are replaced and without checking to see if the caliber’s and master cylinders are working properly and this can cause excessive brake wear, and other problems. I also think it is very important to flush the brake fluid and the recommended intervals.

With the equipment that I work on that has hydraulic brakes I now replace or rebuild the caliber’s, wheel cylinders and master cylinder every time I do a brake job. To me it is just too critical of a component to take chances with.
 
Very useful advise and I can personally attest to the fact that I have warped and worn down rotors because of my choice in pads not knowing the difference!
 
mcgovern61":1sw7p7gy said:
Very useful advise and I can personally attest to the fact that I have warped and worn down rotors because of my choice in pads not knowing the difference!
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ME TOO!

I used metallic pads on a truck once. At the same time I rebuilt the calipers and put on new rotors.
Those pads tore the new rotors to shreds! Man was I upset.
From now on I use only the pads recommended by the dealer.
For that matter it would be worth looking at the Honda recommended pads for our bikes.
In lieu of Honda pads I think I'd want the organic pads that wear faster to save the rotors.
 
Great feedback! If you can find ceramic pads, let me know where. I use them on my wifes Discovery and my Grand Wagoneer. I'll be shutting down melba this weekend to change all fluids & filters, install floor boards and brake pads. With all the free-time I have i should be done by mid 2017. Thanx again for the feedback!
 
Hey guys EBC at www.brakesrus.com offers organic Kevlar brake pads. Since I don't know anything about the company I can not comment as to quality. They even make rotors for the Goldwing but they sure aren't cheap. Would be over 600 dollars to do all three rotors on my 83, thats a hundred more than I paid for the bike.
 
Montecman":2fuihyo0 said:
sabercyclegoldwingparts is where i found them. I hope that I have a good experiance with them!
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I have used sabre cycle since they started business and have good dealings. I am strict about brakes and tires. I try to install what I believe to be the best regardless of price. In this case and judgeing by the age of the machine I would dismantle everything and install new parts. I will cut corners on some things, but not brakes and tires.
 
mcgovern61":3dr5umcp said:
The pads I got were on sale at my local Honda dealer and they sell EBC pads. My experience with Sabercylce is mixed, I got some real good tools and other accessories, but she almost killed me when I asked why they do not take PayPal on the Ebay site! She not so gently reminded me that they "terms and conditions are posted" and the "DO NOT TAKE PAYPAL"!!!!!!!! :help:

I backed down and retreated as quickly as possible! (Didn't buy anything else either!) The brake pads I got from them did wear out in less than 4K miles, BUT, my brakes were dragging.

I did get some cool tools, a carb sync kit that I really like (not cheap now but was 1/2 price when I got them and the adjuster nut wrench/driver for adjusting the carb screws.
Click to expand...


I will abmit, these guys have the old biker mentality. I have had dealings with Pay-Pal and things didn't come out in my favor for sure. I will not accept Pay-Pal. I am not wanting to bad mouth the organization, I'll just stay clear of it.
 
When I change the pads on my bike, or any vehicle so far, I loosen up the bolt hold the caliper to the "whatever", stick a large screwdriver between the old pad and the rotor, then use the screwdriver as a lever to compress the caliper. I haven't damaged a caliper yet, and the damage I do to the pad makes it moot since I'll be throwing it away.
 
What I would be concerned with is damaging the rotor with the screwdriver. Not only that it is a good idea to compress the caliber evenly, by compressing it from one side it would be possible for the piston to score the other side of the caliber. That is why I always remove the caliber and use the worn pad with a C clamp centered to compress it. I’m not trying to be critical of your procedure just give you reason for other methods of performing the job.
 

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