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Buffalo444

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Jul 22, 2015
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Laramie
Hello all, stumbled across this forum while looking to see if GL1100 faux tanks fit on GL1200s. Figured I would join in and learn what I can!

Literally just bought the bike yesterday (7/21/2015) I have attached the dealer photo and a pic from when we loaded it up and drug it home. Unloaded it straight out of the truck and to the dealer here, should have new tires on it within the next week.

Needs a few things after tires, first one being how it runs out. The bike fires right up even after sitting overnight, but sounds a little "off" and doesn't quite run out that well when moving (revs pretty well in neutral), seems to have a slight miss, but then again I really haven't been able to get it warmed up yet. It seems to run kinda rich which it first starts though.

So to try to remedy that I'm going to blow the carbs out with carb cleaner, then run some high-octane Shell gas through it along with some seafoam for a couple tanks, see if that helps. If not, I will probably take it back to the dealer this winter after snow hits and have them rebuild and sync all the carbs, which should only be able $610-700.

Other than that, the dealer mentioned fork seals and the steering stem bearing. The right seal definitely leaks, but not bad, so it will probably see some road time before I do those as well as some new progressive springs, as it seems to want to nose dive pretty easily just sitting on it in the lot and rocking it forward. I'm going to do the break pads too since it seems kind of soft (probably from the fork oil on it)

Going to investigate the bearing with some stops after I get tires on it, as well as put it up on the center stand and see how easily the handlebars move through the range of motion.

Will do an oil change and coolant flush as well, probably once the first weekend with snow or lots of rain hits, since I don't expect to see too many miles before then (this is my first motorcycle btw).

Not sure if I need to check out the timing belts or anything else, as its 30 years old but only has 62300 miles on it.

And well, that's pretty much the story of me and the bike so far. But I am glad I found this place!
 

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Welcome to the fun. If you are mechanically inclined you would do better investing in tools to do your own work. Carbs on the 1200 do not have an actual choke. They have an enrichener circuit. Mine has seized up. Yours may be stuck part way open.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154297#p154297:1wasasy0 said:
slabghost » 30 minutes ago[/url]":1wasasy0]
Welcome to the fun. If you are mechanically inclined you would do better investing in tools to do your own work. Carbs on the 1200 do not have an actual choke. They have an enrichener circuit. Mine has seized up. Yours may be stuck part way open.

I am pretty mechanically inclined, but actually have never worked on any carbs before. Most of my wrenching has been on direct-injected diesels. I planned on doing most of my own work except for the carbs...

Would carb cleaner and some treated high-octane fuel help unstick that enrichener if that is the problem?

My biggest worry about messing with those carbs isn't rebuilding them, as I hear they are pretty simple. but syncing them up seems to be a whole different story.
 
Synchronizing the carbs is done with the linkage. If you don't bother that you should be okay. Enrichener is the tiny bellcranks up near the carb top covers. they are linked with a rod. Front carb to rear. They activated by the lever on the switch housing near the left bar grip. If they move with that be sure they return fully.
 
Thanks everyone!

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154329#p154329:3641h8s3 said:
brianinpa » Today, 6:12 am[/url]":3641h8s3]
Welcome to Classics from PA! Since you are considering an 1100 faux tank on a 1200, are you thinking about stripping it down?

Yes I am, once I get everything hashed out mechanically. Thinking of making it look like a first Gen Valk, just as a 1200. Trying to figure out fender and seat/ backrest options for that route as I work on getting it mechanically reliable.
 
Welcome to the forum, enjoy! I would do the timing belts, they are old unless you know they are new, age will kill the belt and they die with no warning.
 
Welcome to CGW.... :moped:

I would not blow any carb cleaner into the carbs, it will destroy the o rings, vacuum diaphragms, air pilot valves, the after burner value -if it has one , or any other thing that is rubber related in it. This is a NO_NO .
Take it from someone that has paid the price before learning the ropes.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154319#p154319:653xl3xt said:
K7TKA » Today, 12:22 am[/url]":653xl3xt]
I would use ATF in the gas rather than carb cleaner. It's a lot safer. For sure do the belts.

How much should one mix into a full tank?

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154392#p154392:653xl3xt said:
julimike54 » Today, 2:10 pm[/url]":653xl3xt]
Welcome to the forum, enjoy! I would do the timing belts, they are old unless you know they are new, age will kill the belt and they die with no warning.

How difficult are the belts to do? I imagine it is somewhat akin to messing with the timing drive on a vehicle, so turn it over by hand a few times first to make sure your valves are clear of the pistons.


[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154417#p154417:653xl3xt said:
backyardtrouble » Today, 4:26 pm[/url]":653xl3xt]
Welcome to CGW.... :moped:

I would not blow any carb cleaner into the carbs, it will destroy the o rings, vacuum diaphragms, air pilot valves, the after burner value -if it has one , or any other thing that is rubber related in it. This is a NO_NO .
Take it from someone that has paid the price before learning the ropes.

Duly noted. Is there anything else that isn't safe in these bikes as far as fuel, fluids, etc?
 
How much should one mix into a full tank?
approximately 4-6 oz . I just splash in some every time.

How difficult are the belts to do? I imagine it is somewhat akin to messing with the timing drive on a vehicle, so turn it over by hand a few times first to make sure your valves are clear of the pistons.
There are several threads on this and yes it's best to turn the motor over by hand a few times to verify nothing hits before you start it.

As far as what is safe for the carbs in general. Gasoline and atf. Anything that might attack older rubber components should be avoided.
 
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