New guy, another single carb conversion.

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brians carb is the pict 34 single barrel carb ...not dft...dkl and others have dial this carb in rather good out of the box .....each oldwing motor size has its differences ...with the 1000 size seems to be the toughest to dial in with the vw carb ...and then there the people who seem not to get this carb to dial in at all ....
 
Seems we're comparing apples, oranges and bananas as far a single carbs on oldwings go. :headscratch:

Still it would be nice to know what direction to go for tuning: richer/ leaner, more accelerate pump/less when tuning from stock setup.

Brian
 
well ive learned that the conditions of the day your having can move the set up on a carb quite a bit ....ive actually got my dft to adjust very easy to day to day conditions ...and the air side being the thing that can be use to fine tune carb once its dial in right ...went for ride today ..nice here in fla ..bike was running nice but a bit high on idle ..and i just reached down and adjusted the carb on the go ...when i got to next stop the idle was perfect ...the bikes power was huge as it brought the front wheel up in second gear with a frame bucking leap ...most of the ride was just putting around ...and its really amazing how well and smooth it runs in this mode ...totally opposite from stock oldwing down low rpm running ....

seems theres many ways to get to a good dial in carb ...and also many ways how not to get there ....i dont think my work on my bike applies to most SCC projects on stock bikes ..but i am pushing how much better it is than stock carb bikes ...just dont think theres ever going to be a plug and play car carb that will fit all oldwing 4 stock motors ...there just to different ...

personally i just love the dft carb and bike set up i have gotten to ..no joke words here ..the bike is solid....to me my bike proof SCC is hard to beat as a high performance mod if dial in good ....

i remenber brian that your bike was way lean with a 40 idle jet ...my bike was way rich there ..you went up in jetting and i had to modify the idle circuit to get mine lean enough ..the art of making a carb work is what needs to be learned or goal to get to ..extensive mods made to my carb ...others did nothing much ... :mrgreen:
 
Well it ran for a little bit! Idled at least, have to figure out where and how Im going to route my throttle cable, and fix a coolant leak. MY electric fuel pump didnt seem to want to prime either, its similar to how I had it routed with the stock carbs though so might not have given it enough time. Getting closer!
 
Went out and attached the throttle cable, crudely for now. Cant get it to idle, or stay running for very long, it doesnt look like my fuel pump is priming though judging by the amount of fuel in the filter. I have the pump mounted high as you can see, it worked fine for several thousand miles but the fuel inlet on the carb is much higher on the bike than the factory rack. Also getting some impressive flaming backfires through the carb cranking.



 
Could you dismount the pump and let it drop down below the fuel level in the tank so gas is fed to it by gravity. Maybe if you did that and got it primed then you could put it back where you have it.

Have you tried taking the fuel line off the carb and see if it will pump into a can.
 
Started getting chilly out there, I know I was pretty low on fuel the last time I rode it so Im going to get a couple gallons tomorrow and try to get it primed.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=185595#p185595:1lc3ys3x said:
slabghost » 3 minutes ago[/url]":1lc3ys3x]
A little air pocket in the filter is normal. In fact I've never had one without some air in it.
Me either.

Flaming backfires eh? That seems suspicious to me like ignition timing or crossfire on plug wires? Too tight rocker adjustments?
 
This one barely has any fuel in it, a little puddle in the bottom of the filter is about all. Just need to do some more fiddling tomorrow.

The timing and valves havent been changed since it was running on the stock rack, double and triple checked the plug wires to make sure they werent crossed, when I had it running it was purring at 2000rpm, just wouldnt idle.
 
How old are the spark plugs? I was having a similar issue with backfiring through the carb. Timing was dead on and my plugs looked fine. Someone who knows more about his ignition system than I do told me to change the plugs and it was the one thing I forgot to do it. When I changed the plugs, my ignition problem went away.
 
+1 on the plugs. Had new ones in my CBR when it was running rich, cleaned and dried them without any luck. Switched in a new set and fired up straight away. :doh:
Can't explain the science but I did as told and it worked. :whistling:
 
ok the dft has a lot of epa crap and stuff on it ...first thing i noticed is there is no fuel shut off on the carb or anti dieseling device on the carb ...good chance the idle circuit is draining into manifold after shut down ...there must be a plug there i guess or i just cant see it in the pics ....theres also two vacuum ports at the throttle plate line they have to be plug up on a 1000 motor ..as they dont have vac advance ignition....another important thing is bowl venting on this carb has epa venting crap from hell an altitude adjusting compensating deal ...on my carb i eliminated all that crazy tech stuff and made my own direct to the bowl vent right by the fuel inlet where the brass plugs are at .....one of the two plugs when open makes a great bowl vent ....the other big deal going on is the power valve the carb has ...on a 1000 motor you have the smallest pistons of the oldwing 4s ....this device adds gas to motor when vacuum gets higher from load ...it is also not adjustable ...this carb goes on a economy car motor of low rpm ...in no way is a oldwing motor anything like that ...and the vac signal will pull in all kinds of gas to an already over rich condition....to me id say the formula is ..right now it wont run unless the motor is 2000rpm or more cause its so rich it will drown out at any lower rpm ...this is easy to check really ..if plugs are black and sooty and it seems to get worse at idle the longer you run it at idle or sitting ..sort of tell you this ...to me you cant really dial a epa carb with a power valve operating on it ....so to me this is where i think your at ...it is my guess that with the early cams 1000 motor is aggressive and small..... an will take some tuning to get right ...id say if you get it right you will have a mean machine on your hands ...my bike is simply the same thing in the 1200 motor size ...with a bigger carb than yours but still a dft 32-34...the 32-32 car you have ought to work nice on the 1000 motor once dialed in ..is what i see ...and when you get there ..the bike will be a bad ass ..you got all the right stuff in hand to get there ...in my opinion
 
Update, got it running for a while last night, then sprung a coolant leak. Once thats fixed hopefully Ill have more news!
 
Still goin on the old girl, took it on about a 75mi ride lat Sunday. It was only 40-45 degrees here and there were mixed results. Wide open if you keep grabbing gears it pulls like a monster, I was very impressed by it. Everywhere else however is lacking. Roll on is nearly non-existent, if you open the throttle too quickly it will totally die out, no power. It also dies often on take off, unless you get pretty abusive with rpm and the clutch. Ive found I can get it to accelerate a tiny bit better without excessive downshifts by lightly feathering the throttle, I think because it is actuating the accelerator pump. The ambient temp isnt helping I know, and Im getting icing on my 1bbl-2bbl adapter. I think Im going to take it all down and try and cut the carb flange directly into the top of the manifold, I think the icing is being caused by the velocity picked up in the adapter.

Projects not dead yet!
 
im thinking your rich ..should check plugs after the ride you did ...they will tell you a lot ....way up in rpm with stock jetting they seem to go lean there...though the motor smaller than the car motor they were for ..they dont pull the rpm like the oldwing does ...witch means they need more jetting up there ..that how my bike played out ..but the motor not stock either ..yours could be entirely different ...
 

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