New Member

[IBAJIM]

Hello Dudes & Dudecesses !!

I just purchased a like-new '83 GL1100I with 32K miles. So, I'll be asking some questions in the next few days about this bike. Maybe I can start now ...

1.) What weight engine oil is recommended ?
2.) How often does the drive shaft need maintenance ( u-joint ) ?
3.) Is a higher output stator available ? I hear the engine needs to be pulled to replace it - Fun !!
4.) The front forks have a "TRAC" sticker on the lower fork tubes. Is that stock or does it mean it has an aftermarket kit installed ?
5.) Does this bike have a fuel pump ? If so, what type is it ?
6.) Looks like the carbs are the CV type, but the parts fiche doesn't show a rubber diaphram. It looks like there is just an O-ring - correct ??
7.) What is the "weak link" on this bike ???
8.) What is the typically gas mileage @ 75 mph ?

Thanks !!!

 

[Ansimp]

Welcome from Oz

 

[joedrum]

1..15-40 is what i use diesel oil for big trucks...cause i have access to it ..no other reason

2 driveshaft is non changable joint no grease fitting .. just dumb design

3 yes and yes ... hope yours is good

4 its stock

5 yes mechanical and its on the right head in the back runs off the cam

6 they are metal slide cv carbs

7..ignition and carbs and wiring in general ...over done for sure and 30 yrs plus old

8...a good bike get 40-45 .. most have issues that keep this from happening till up to par

welcome to classic

 

[Steve83]

Welcome from Southern California! Joe covered it pretty well. There is a grease fitting on the final drive where it bolts to the swingarm to lube the drive shaft splines. The TRAC is an anti-dive system, and it works pretty well if it's in good shape. If the 32K on your bike has been well-maintained, you should have a nice machine - congrats! How 'bout some pics?!?!

You might want to check out the Gallery, there's plenty of info, including Owner's manuals and shop manuals.

 

[Omega Man]

Welcome to the forums! Sounds like a nice find. Bummer the stator is bad. Not sure if I read Joe's recommendation on oil right, diesel?

~O~

 

[backlander]

Welcome to CGW.

 

[dan filipi]

Omega Man » Tue May 20, 2014 2:27 pm[/url]":8ofz7i96]
Welcome to the forums! Sounds like a nice find. Bummer the stator is bad. Not sure if I read Joe's recommendation on oil right, diesel?

~O~

Joe meant the oil he uses is for diesel engines like the Rotella 15/40.

 

[backyardtrouble]

welcome to the fun...yes..post some pics.

 

[brianinpa]

Welcome to Classics from PA! What is the weak link..... the rider. The bikes are bullet proof.

 

[IBAJIM]

Omega Man » Tue May 20, 2014 5:27 pm[/url]":22yhvm3c]
Welcome to the forums! Sounds like a nice find. Bummer the stator is bad. Not sure if I read Joe's recommendation on oil right, diesel?

~O~

Thanks for the info, Joe !! Nice to hear there is grease fitting to lube the splines.

And Omega Man, the stator isn't bad, I'm just thinking ahead to after I install a Rostra Electronic cruise and some aux spotlights - I may need some extra watts to reassure myself. Maybe some SuperBright LED replacement bulbs can save me a few watts - every little bit helps. 10 watts here and 10 watts there adds up.

Anyone know what the wattage of the standard headlight bulb is ? I'm assuming it's basically a H4, maybe 45/55 watt .........seems that's been standard for Honda for many years.

 

[zman]

Welcome to the forum,
Joe`s choice of oil is correct whether by convenience or not..Modern oil has additives that do not work well with wet plate clutches, Diesel is made more like the motor oils of yesteryear and work well with wet plate clutches. Of course there is motorcycle oil if you don't mind 5-8 bucks a quart.
Change your timing belts if you haven't done so yet, about 30K and who knows how many years it is probably safer to replace them now then risk them breaking.

 

[Ansimp]

If you check through the lighting posts you will see all about LEDs and HID (35w) for the H4 headlamp replacement. Make sure you don't use 55w spotlights on your ride as I believe that would be the main contributor to stator/rectifier,plug failure.

 

[Joep]

Welcome from North TEXAS DFW area.... seems at the questions have been answered... some maintenance to consider.. when where the timing belts changed last? .. check around the coils for cracking and tar leaks.. run the bike in neutral and watch your temp gauge.. listen for the fan to turn on.. check the three yellow wires for browning and connector for discolorization and distortion.. check around the fork seals for oiling and under the dust cover on the shocks for leaking.. be sure and stop and smell around the front of the fairing.. to see if you have a coolant leak.. just things to check as you begin your journey..

 

[Jungo]

Welcome to the best classic Goldwings forum.

Greetings from the Sunshine State.

Live long and prosper. God bless you.

 

[IBAJIM]

Joep » Tue May 20, 2014 7:19 pm[/url]":2ewma6lk]
Welcome from North TEXAS DFW area.... seems at the questions have been answered... some maintenance to consider.. when where the timing belts changed last? .. check around the coils for cracking and tar leaks.. run the bike in neutral and watch your temp gauge.. listen for the fan to turn on.. check the three yellow wires for browning and connector for discolorization and distortion.. check around the fork seals for oiling and under the dust cover on the shocks for leaking.. be sure and stop and smell around the front of the fairing.. to see if you have a coolant leak.. just things to check as you begin your journey..

Thanks Joe. I'm planning on doing the timing belt this next winter. It's probably the original. I think I'll drop the engine and replace the stator at the same time. I think there are replacement staors that put out ( or at least claim to ) about 20% more than stock.

 

[IBAJIM]

Ansimp » Tue May 20, 2014 6:58 pm[/url]":10191qba]
If you check through the lighting posts you will see all about LEDs and HID (35w) for the H4 headlamp replacement. Make sure you don't use 55w spotlights on your ride as I believe that would be the main contributor to stator/rectifier,plug failure.

I'm planning on installing some LED spotlights that draw about a total of 2.4 amps, or 40 watts total.

 

[brianinpa]

Something to consider... if you put a higher output stator in, the extra unused power will need to go somewhere. Is the regulator (or rectifier - which one is it?) up to the task. Everything I have been reading seems to point to the best way to free up electrical power is to change incandescent bulbs out for LEDs.

 

[dan filipi]

This charging system is strange and as far as I can tell, not completely understood how it operates.

It's generally said the stator and regulator/rectifier system is designed to always output 100% from the stator, and what is not used is dumped (shorted/shunted) to ground.
The odd thing I find is while idling mine, when I turn on the 2-55 watt driving lights I am certain I hear the idle slow a bit. This to me tells me the stator was NOT putting out 100% before the light load was turned on. I put an A/C ammeter on the stator wires and in fact amps do go up with the added load. A very small amount but it does go up.
With that said, I'm inclined to think reducing load with LED bulbs is best.

 

[mcgovern61]

Welcome to the site from New Jersey! :clapping:

 

[Ansimp]

If you use LEDs your current charging system is fine unless it is faulty. Changing to a 35w Hid would more than compensate for your cruise control. :yes: