Hmmmm the sense wire is black only on 1000 and 1100s ...I’m not sure on 1200s...I’m not sure this will help your problem either ....but it does cause problems ..but mostly overcharging ...but running it to battery may eliminate a short somewhere
Oldwing starts no more
- Thread starter JoeBarTeam
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Black/Lt.green wire sense wire on 1200's. Charge diagram is on page 156 of the 1986 El ctric troubleshooting manual that is in the gallery. Original sense wire can underreport the condition of the battery to the battery by as much as 1.5 volts causing the regulator to overcharge and ruin the battery because of dirty contacts, age of wires and such. There are threads on site showing how to fix this by use of 4 pin Automotive relay which allows direct reading of battery condition yet protects electrical system
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
overcharging, yes. My issue is different. i have normal charge untill 2300 u/min and no charge above 2300 u/min. let's say them undercharge depending on the engine regime.backlander":b5mtorby said:
the sense wiring didn't change anything in the results of the voltages. it must be something others, but what?
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
next idea
what about the in-line capacitor feeded from the regulator green wires and going out to the red/white wire? could this capacitor be the cause of my gremlin?
i found many critical comments in the net about capacitors. what for did honda put it in the oldwing? may i just take it away and connect the wires together?
what about the in-line capacitor feeded from the regulator green wires and going out to the red/white wire? could this capacitor be the cause of my gremlin?
i found many critical comments in the net about capacitors. what for did honda put it in the oldwing? may i just take it away and connect the wires together?
I went back and read this entire thread and with everything you have changed ,cleaned, repaired and tested, you should not be having any problems with the charging system. If you consider the function of each component in the charging system, I'm going to have to say you have a bad regulator even though you just changed it out. I don't know if you replaced it with a new or used one but either can come broken before you even install it. I'm at a loss otherwise.
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
thank you for taking the time for my issue!backlander":1u9661m5 said:
i was also thinking about it but thought a new one should be ok. i'll to try a third one.
well, let's do it and hope the next one will work right.
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
is it right the regulator SH541-12 with the parts number 31600-MG9-000 and 010 can't be purchased new anymore?
i find 'em only used or from other makes like the one i buyed before.
i have everytime the risk to buy one that doesn't work right. it can become a costly thing 'till i get a good one.
what do you recommend me to do? a new or an used oem?
i find 'em only used or from other makes like the one i buyed before.
i have everytime the risk to buy one that doesn't work right. it can become a costly thing 'till i get a good one.
what do you recommend me to do? a new or an used oem?
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I would replace it with a new mosfet regulator. Suppose to work much better.
What Dan said- get a mosfet that will interchange with your bike, much better internal regulator electronics.
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JoeBarTeam
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i've taken a precise look at both regulators, the old oem and the new one.
there where they say i should have continuity i don't and where i should have no continuity i do have. just the opposite of the troubleshooting manual.
are my regulators or the manual wrong?
example:
+yellow -green should not. i get continuity
+yellow -red/white should have. i get no continuity. and so on.
there where they say i should have continuity i don't and where i should have no continuity i do have. just the opposite of the troubleshooting manual.
are my regulators or the manual wrong?
example:
+yellow -green should not. i get continuity
+yellow -red/white should have. i get no continuity. and so on.
Start here in Honda Service manual GL 1200 in gallery ,chapter 16 to test charging system.
slabghost
Well-known member
Possible it is simply wired incorrectly.
Could be, I think the reg/text has to be unplugged to check it also is the reason I suggested to follow the test procedure in the service manual. Electrical gremlins are tuff to run down.
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
I see my example is wrong, excuse me.JoeBarTeam":332i7adf said:
I should have written like this:
+yellow to -green must have continuity. i don't
+yellow to -red/white no continuity. i have.
just the opposite what i wrote before and the opposite of what i should get. seen at haynes and the other manuals. the measures are taken with the regulator of the bike.
that's why i asked if this is enough to say both regulators, the old and the new buyed are out of order, what i suppose.
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
looking at this manual i see something new to me, the noise filter. i'll check this too.backlander":2r0fom0q said:
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
i went with the picture of the noise filter to my oldwing to identify the right part and... where is this noise filter? my oldwing hasn't it. no noise filter, nothing to test.JoeBarTeam":13wat5w3 said:
Hmmmm this is getting Honda twilight zone of wiring nightmares
You might not be looking at the correct manual, are you here?
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=2005&image_id=19779
It's for '86 wings
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=2005&image_id=19779
It's for '86 wings
There are two manuals Mike, the Elecrical Manual that shows the layout and components from which the diagram you posted came from and the one I posted from the Service Manual that has the testing procedure in it.
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JoeBarTeam
Well-known member
i am looking in every manual that seems to be the right one. i didn't see the one with the noise filter isn't for the 86. what about the in-line capacitor? is this needed at all?
