Painting the 1500

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Good day of painting. Forgot it was Good Friday and everything is closed. Got 15 of the 17 pieces done. As pidjones mentioned, be careful dragging the air hose around. Two pieces got nailed, these are now fixed and will be done tomorrow. One of the side panels did not get the clear coat as I wanted, wet sand with 2000 grit, will get more clear coat tomorrow.

Letting everything sit for the night. Expect to see a difference in the morning.

Need to find a place tomorrow that has clear coat. Went through 3/4 of a quart today. I added some reducer to the last two batches of clear that I mixed, flowed better. The main reason I went through so much clear coat is the gun I am using. It is the Devilbiss FLG-4 with a 1.3 mm nozzle. I mentioned in another post that finishing spray guns are much better suited to spraying motorcycle parts. The finishing/mini spray guns can be used with a smaller compressor. Would recommend 1.0 mm for base and mid coats, and 1.2 mm for clear coat; however, 1.2 mm nozzle for all three should work as well. Lots of wasted paint from the full size spray guns, but it is what I presently have. Will be rectifying this before the next paint project.

Noticed that the small inexpensive air/water separator that I installed on my small compressor is working.
 
Couldn't get any clear coat, didn't try too hard, but the place I generally go to was closed long weekend and all.

Left the parts sitting overnight and there was a nice difference in the parts. Looked much better, no orange peel, or anything else. Ran my hand over the parts and I've captured some dust. The parts that have this will be wet sanded with 2000 grit and then 2/3 more coats of clear. Will work well.

A few days rest from painting is not a bad thing. To occupy my time productively, I cleaned the garage from top to bottom. Should make a difference when I start again. Should be able to get my clear coat on Monday.

Have been researching the different spray guns, specifically LVLP versus HVLP. Interesting concepts and what is out there. I was also looking for the internal passages being coated. What I have found out is that the LVLP does not require an industrial size compressor. I know that the Devilbiss FLG-4 HVLP that I have drains my little compressor quite quickly and I have to wait for it to pressure up. The Devilbiss StartingLine finishing gun that I have draws the compressor down, but once started, the compressor keeps up.

The reviews I have seen and read indicate that the LVLP is probably a better spray gun for what I am doing, small bike parts. The issue with this is getting an LVLP that has a 1.0 or 1.2 mm nozzle. Doing my research, there are a couple of excellent candidates out there that should do the job.

The Astro Pneumatic Tools (EVOT13) EuroPro Forged EVO-T Spray Gun with 1.3mm Nozzle and Plastic Cup, an LVLP gun, has very good reviews. The internals are coated for durability, one of my criteria. Another 1.3 nozzle LVLP spray gun that gets good reviews for small jobs is the SPRAYIT SP-33000 LVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun and is half the price.

Getting into the 1.0 and 1.2 mm nozzle sizes seems to be the purview of the HPLV crowd. Astro has the 1.0 and 1.2 mm nozzles and the internals of the spray guns are coated for durability. Reasonably priced at around $140.00 CDN.

Always something to look at.
 
Guitar builders use a lot of lacquer that uses similar size orifice plus small objects being painted. Lacquer, of course cleans up very easily with just acetone. Still their forums may have good info as well as model builders.
 
Thanks for the info. Perused a few guitar videos and looked at some forums. These guitar fellows are very particular about what is used. They paint in some very small spaces and inside their homes.
 
Took a couple of pics of the final result. Think it has worked out well:
Lower right panel finished.jpg
Lower right panel finished 2.jpg
Lower right panel finished 3.jpg
Liking the product. Still a few to do, takes time, but who doesn't have that nowadays.
 
Thanks - I mentioned the colour to my daughter and she immediately thought of Star Wars. I'm a Trekker mostly.

Checked the paint shop times, should be open tomorrow. Need clear coat and the mid pearl colour (just in case). Finished cleaning the garage all round including a squeegee of the floor. Keeping the dust to a minimum this time.
 
Another small painting project I am looking at is a black chrome finish on the plastic and metal chrome pieces. Expect the paint scheme to be quite good for a first time, and would like all the parts to compliment. The front lower cowling is a bit "ratty" to say the least:
Lower front cowling.jpg
. Dupli Color has this product, $25.00 at the local Canadian Tire. Have viewed videos on this product and it does not seem to be too daunting considering the main paint project. Will do some additional homework and get prepped for this.
 
Back in the day I worked with a car painter and every time he'd get ready to paint, he wet down the floor to keep dust at bay.

That is looking very nice from here!
 
Thanks

I'd heard of that, not practical for my case. I did notice that the pieces that had dust bits and some more than others were closer to the table top. My thought is that there was a lot of paint dust from the first day when I had painting issues, and the sprayers kicked up the dust that was there. The pieces that were higher up had none or very little. Got that taken care of this time, have new drop cloths, and have cleaned the garage. A little more cleaning today, pick up some paint, wet sand the pieces I need to and setup for tomorrow. As I mentioned, first do the clear coat sprays, then setup for the few remaining pieces - most are the smaller ones. Will let everything sit for at least five days. Positive note to my C-19 major project - it will look good. :cool!:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216583#p216583:wdi97vmp said:
Rednaxs60 » April 12th, 2020, 6:39 pm[/url]":wdi97vmp]
Thanks - I mentioned the colour to my daughter and she immediately thought of Star Wars. I'm a Trekker mostly.

Off-topic, but if you like old Trek, around the Next Generation Era, you should really check out "The Orville".
 
No worries - Watched all the episodes, would like to see it come back for a few more seasons. Too many medical/emergency/cop shows, need some diversity so to speak.

Today should be a banner day. Sun's up, a little cool first thing but supposed to warm up. Need some paint filters so that is first on the agenda.

Mentioned cleaning of the garage was being done, even cleaned the shop vac - took it apart and got rid of all the dirt and grime. Took the kayaks down and washed as well. Going to look at the Shadow Chrome for the chrome on the bike. I'm thinking it will tone down the brightness.

Took the light rings off the front rotor covers. Nice to have but not my thing. These are in working order, and will be offering these up free but pay the shipping. Here's pic:
Light Ring.jpg
Will clean up before I send. Expensive little critters.

Cheers
 
Good day in the paint world. All pieces DONE! :music: :music: Been a long haul, but I can now relax a bit. Only one run to contend with, but small issue. Have been looking on line to find out my options. Had to make a couple of jigs to get the mirrors and trunk wing done:
Trunk Wing Jig.jpg
Mirror Jig.jpg
Now the clean up starts but that is a tomorrow job. Leaving the pieces setup in the garage overnight, then move and leave alone for the next 5 days. Have other projects to keep me from getting bored. Will post pics of the latest paint day, but that is also a tomorrow job.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216649#p216649:1cwbn2wh said:
mcgovern61 » Today, 4:13 am[/url]":1cwbn2wh]
Lot of work for sure. Made me respect professional painters a lot more!

Hear you on this. I have two panels with slight issues, one has a clear coat run, the other - trunk lid has some dust/dirt specs and a couple of other blemishes that I can see.

I've researched the clear coat run. Can use a fine filler over the clear coat at the paint run, wet sand until filler gone and the run get taken away as well. For the trunk lid, a scuff then reapply clear, or cut and polish.

Now the question. Gerry - what did you use for this? I have wet/dry sand paper up to 2000 grit. A wet sand with 1500/2000 should be good, but do not have a buffer.

Cheers
 
I had a few runs in the Hunley's clear coat (2k Spraymax rattlecan). Was able to wet sand and then rubbing compound and finishing compound them out. Also removed a gnat that landed right in the middle of a side cover.
 
To perform the cut and polish tasking, I bought a 3M headlight scratch fix kit that came with two pads, a 3000 grit pad plus a little compound and polish. The pads are velcro and fit on a 3/8" drill. I used Meguiars polishing compound and polish to to the final cut. Wet sanding with the little 3000 grit square that came in the kit is critical for a smooth clearcoat. Cut per instructions and then polish per instructions. Cheaper than buying a buffer and much easier to use on the various shapes og motorcycle parts.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216655#p216655:6k13y90p said:
mcgovern61 » Yesterday, 10:29 am[/url]":6k13y90p]
To perform the cut and polish tasking, I bought a 3M headlight scratch fix kit that came with two pads, a 3000 grit pad plus a little compound and polish. The pads are velcro and fit on a 3/8" drill. I used Meguiars polishing compound and polish to to the final cut. Wet sanding with the little 3000 grit square that came in the kit is critical for a smooth clearcoat. Cut per instructions and then polish per instructions. Cheaper than buying a buffer and much easier to use on the various shapes og motorcycle parts.

Had a chat with my paint guy. He is of the same opinion considering I have some 6 coats of clear on all the parts for various reasons. Have to clear coat a couple of pieces due to a wee misstep, run on one and some over spray on the other. Both are where you can see them. Can continue to do clear coat, but it's the prep, paint, cleanup that would be the Never Ending Story.

I did pick up a couple of inexpensive 0.8 mm nozzle spray guns from Princess Auto (our Harbor Freight) on sale for $20.00 CDN (regular $45.00). Jim (my paint guy) and I agree that you can spray clear coat with these for any of the bike parts. Good for small pieces.

Took one of the pieces in to show Jim, the one with the run in it. He noticed the dry clear coat edge. The reason for this was the compressor did well for a few passes with the larger gun, but I had to be aware and listen to the difference in pressure from the gun, and stop to let the compressor recharge - then carry on. A delicate balancing act.

Will be using a finishing filler to coat around the run and once set, wet sand until the filler is gone, and in doing so should get rid of the clear coat run without burning through the clear coat. Will try to get pictures.

Learned how to paint with spray guns, now to try my hand at cut and polish.

Cheers
 

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