Removing Rust from Gas Tank without removing the tank from bike.

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philc

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Searching for a good method for cleaning the rust out of my tank without removing it from the bike.
I would rather use chemicals than electricity.
Can I use a compressor to force air back up through the petcock and into the tank to clean it and the lines?
Im trying to avoid removing the petcock as well, I would rather not mess with a good seal at this time.
Metal Rescue sounds good but their instructions state to begin by removing the tank.
If I use the vinegar method and rinse with baking soda Im assuming that I will vacuum most of it out when dry but some dust will remain, can small amounts of baking soda harm anything?
Of course the fuel filter is already out and will be changed often in the future.
Thanks, Phil
 
It really isn't difficult getting the tank out. Getting all the other stuff out of the way can be a chore. Tank in there really isn't a "good" method to clean. No way I've heard of that is effective at the top.
 
I tried to clean the tank on my 78 without removing it but was not satisfied with the results, It took less than an hour to remove tank. Once out I used cheap toilet bowl cleaner 50/50 mix with water and sloshed it around and then rotated the position so that the cleaner could set on all sides for at least 30 minutes. Washed it out with water hose and sprayed inside of tank with WD-40. Suggest you remove the petcock assy and run a wire or pipe cleaner into the pick up tubes, these were really gunked up, I sprayed them out with brake cleaner. If I do it again I will take it to a radiator shop and have them soak it.
 
Apparently molasses works a treat. I haven't done it myself or seen it in operation. I was told of a guy that cut the top off a shipping container and dips whole car bodies in it. I have a 92 CBR1000 frame that I want to try it out on when I get a chance. :whip: :yes:
 
Yeah I figured that the best method of cleaning the tank would involve removing it, I was hoping for a shortcut that would allow me to ride it soon.
Working without a right thumb turns this type of procedure, rear wheel and final drive in particular because they are heavy and require 2 hands, into a week long, slow dicey dance so as not to re-injure the ligament. Im glad I stopped short of putting the clean carbs back on and filling them with the crap thats in the bottom of the tank though. I removed the old (2K miles?) fuel filter and its loaded with rusty sediment, thats when I decided to drain the tank for a better look inside.
The radiator shop dipping method sounds good to me.
 
I think the molasses would work with the tank in the frame. I think it takes a week or two. If you can't find any information I can finally get more scientific and chase it up for you next week.
 
Thanks, I appreciate the help, if I had not just installed all the other parts, wheel, final drive, exhaust system etc, I wouldnt mind so much. Since I was 19 Ive always done all this heavy work myself, I had to work really hard to coerce my girlfriend to help me getting that stuff back on a few weeks ago. Im not gonna get any help this time. If I restrain my thumb I wont be able to ride at all for the rest of Summer. The cold, drizzly season starts in mid-late Sept around here so time is precious. Please excuse my whining, Hah! back to the garage for me.
 
:good: Maybe you could rig up a small gas can or boat tank and use that instead for the riding season.
 
Could just flush it good for now and keep the tank full to stop further rust. Do the derust thing over the winter.
 
If you do as Slab suggests just put in an extra in line fuel filter after the fuel pump one that you can see the junk in it.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=84210#p84210:3b2fdxsx said:
Ansimp » Sat Jun 08, 2013 1:50 pm[/url]":3b2fdxsx]If you do as Slab suggests just put in an extra in line fuel filter after the fuel pump one that you can see the junk in it.
Click to expand...
With as small as the dang jets are in these carbs I think 2 filters inline is a good idea even if ya don't have rust in the tank.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=84253#p84253:1p0v2a32 said:
dan filipi » Sat Jun 08, 2013 6:28 pm[/url]":1p0v2a32]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=84210#p84210:1p0v2a32 said:
Ansimp » Sat Jun 08, 2013 1:50 pm[/url]":1p0v2a32]If you do as Slab suggests just put in an extra in line fuel filter after the fuel pump one that you can see the junk in it.
Click to expand...
With as small as the dang jets are in these carbs I think 2 filters inline is a good idea even if ya don't have rust in the tank.
Click to expand...
Absolutely!
 
Running 2 filters, hmm!? I had not considered that, but it sure is cheap insurance and its easy to install. Im now busy prepping my KLR for a trip to Auburn, Calif. for the C.J.M.C. swap and show. Most every thing Im doing involves working around the Goldwing, and I think its jealous that Im not tending to its tank issue right now. Soon, soon.
Thanks again for all your help.
 
Went ahead and pulled the tank out yesterday, rinsed it out with pressure hose at the car wash.
Poured roughly 6oz of "The Works" tub and shower cleaner (sulfamic acid, oxalic acid, glycol ether and alkyl ethoxylate) let it sit 20 seconds and rinsed thoroughly. Maybe I am seeing things but the tank looks much better after just that treatment?! Considering doing it again and maybe let the cleaner sit for a full minute (bottle says 30 secs)
 
You should do some searches on the works and gas tank, there is plenty of information on how long it should stay in there, 30 seconds is about how long I left Muriatic acid in my tank which is much stronger. I worked at a chemical plant many years and I am very familiar with muriatic acid so that is why I went that way.
Also you should know the works is a hydrochloric acid and will react explosively to aluminum when sealed and at the very least eat it up on contact so don't leave your petcock on the tank.
I think 30 seconds is a very little amount of time but do some research and find out, I could be wrong..I have never used the works.
 
Zman,

Thanks for the heads up.
I did remove the petcock from the tank before I washed and treated it..good thing I did!
The ingredients I listed in my post came directly from the product label.
I didnt see the words hydrochloric acid on the label.
Maybe I dont fully understand what a hydrochloric acid is.

Im still tempted to dump another batch in the tank Saturday and rinse it out thoroughly in order to get this tank back in the bike very soon.
There are 2 reasons I want to do this:
#1) Pulling the tank is a time consuming job (I work 50-60 hour weeks).
#2) The riding season here is VERY,VERY short, the last 4 days have been Winter-like and there are only 3 weeks in July and 3 weeks in Aug that I would say exhibit Summer like weather.
Fall might be Sept 18 th-Oct 10th and then..BOOM, 8 1/2 months of cold, damp, miserable riding conditions.
4 days of Winter like weather sounds like a dumb thing to complain about, but it means 4 more days subtracted from the maximum of 55-70 days of decent riding weather in a whole year!
I wish I had time to do this right but another 9 week riding season is fading fast!
PC
 
My fuel tank is at the shop getting a muratic acid bath.
After we opened the sending unit access hole I could see all the rust I did not get.
Glad I didnt put it back it without looking twice, there is alot of rust and crud in there.
Thanks for your help.
 
Toytender,
Thanks for the invite.
Had to cancel the ride to Auburn, too many other things going on.
The weather/season has turned here in NW Oregon, probably wont get too many dry rides in the sun again until July 2014.
Wow! I just checked Sacramento weather forecast, upper 70s and into the 80s over the next 10 days!
I am very jealous and homesick, wish I could be riding Hwy 89, 108 or 120 this weekend.
Thurs. the 26th will be our one and only sunny (non-monsoon) day around here, probably for a long while.
Take care and have good safe rides.
Phil
 

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