Wichita Scorpion
Active member
All it takes to make the running/brake converter is four wires of a different color, a Rectifier Diode, and a Resistor. Wires can be small because the current load is very low with LEDs.
The running light current goes through the resistor reducing some of the brightness of the light. The diode blocks the running light current from going back to the brake circuits. When you brake, the brake current goes through the diode giving you the full brightness of the light. There is no added current draw on the bike electrical system.
I am not sure of what parts they have in them but converters sell for $7.00 to $10.00 at motorcycle online shops and one can be made for less than a buck with parts bought at Radio Shack. 2 diodes per package, $0.99; 5 resistors per package, $0.99.
Parts required:
1. Three different color wires about 3 inches (8 mm) long. (Brake input, Running input, Hot (+) output to light)
2. One wire, a fourth color, about 8 inches (20 mm) long. (Ground)
Wire colors should be different, any color, for simplicity to wire to bike and light.
3. One 1N4004 Rectifier Diode, Part # 276-1103, 2 pkg. ( 1N4005, 1N4006 and/or 1N4007 can be used. I think 1N4001, 1N4002, or !N4003 could be used but they have lower current rating so I stayed away from them.)
4. One 33 Ohm 1/2 watt Resistor, Part # 271-1104, 5 pkg. (I tried 47, 68, and 100 Ohm resistors but I was better satisfied with the brightness of the running light with the 33 Ohm resistor. 1/4 watt resistor can be used.
5. Heat shrink tubing
Assembly:
Caution: Be sure to use a heat sink (alligator clip, etc.) on the diode leads as you solder. Heat back into the diode can damage it.
1. Solder Blue wire to opposite the band end of the 1N4004. Heat shrink cover the connection and the bare wire up to the Diode.
2. Solder Gray wire to one end of the 33 Ohm resistor. Heat shrink cover the connection and the bare wire up to the resistor.
3. Connect and solder band end of 1N4004 to end of 33 Ohm resistor and the Red wire.
4. Lay Purple wire along side the resistor/diode/wiring assembly and slide a larger heat shrink over, covering all connections and bare wires. Heat shrink should extend about 1/2 to 1 inch (1 1/2 – 3 mm) over the insulated wiring.
Extra Tip: To check LEDs there is no reason to go out to your bike or bring the bike into the living room. Due to very little current drain of LED lights, a 9 volt battery, like the ones used in home Fire Alarms or toys can be used to check out LED lights or this converter with an LED light.
The running light current goes through the resistor reducing some of the brightness of the light. The diode blocks the running light current from going back to the brake circuits. When you brake, the brake current goes through the diode giving you the full brightness of the light. There is no added current draw on the bike electrical system.
I am not sure of what parts they have in them but converters sell for $7.00 to $10.00 at motorcycle online shops and one can be made for less than a buck with parts bought at Radio Shack. 2 diodes per package, $0.99; 5 resistors per package, $0.99.
Parts required:
1. Three different color wires about 3 inches (8 mm) long. (Brake input, Running input, Hot (+) output to light)
2. One wire, a fourth color, about 8 inches (20 mm) long. (Ground)
Wire colors should be different, any color, for simplicity to wire to bike and light.
3. One 1N4004 Rectifier Diode, Part # 276-1103, 2 pkg. ( 1N4005, 1N4006 and/or 1N4007 can be used. I think 1N4001, 1N4002, or !N4003 could be used but they have lower current rating so I stayed away from them.)
4. One 33 Ohm 1/2 watt Resistor, Part # 271-1104, 5 pkg. (I tried 47, 68, and 100 Ohm resistors but I was better satisfied with the brightness of the running light with the 33 Ohm resistor. 1/4 watt resistor can be used.
5. Heat shrink tubing
Assembly:
Caution: Be sure to use a heat sink (alligator clip, etc.) on the diode leads as you solder. Heat back into the diode can damage it.
1. Solder Blue wire to opposite the band end of the 1N4004. Heat shrink cover the connection and the bare wire up to the Diode.
2. Solder Gray wire to one end of the 33 Ohm resistor. Heat shrink cover the connection and the bare wire up to the resistor.
3. Connect and solder band end of 1N4004 to end of 33 Ohm resistor and the Red wire.
4. Lay Purple wire along side the resistor/diode/wiring assembly and slide a larger heat shrink over, covering all connections and bare wires. Heat shrink should extend about 1/2 to 1 inch (1 1/2 – 3 mm) over the insulated wiring.
Extra Tip: To check LEDs there is no reason to go out to your bike or bring the bike into the living room. Due to very little current drain of LED lights, a 9 volt battery, like the ones used in home Fire Alarms or toys can be used to check out LED lights or this converter with an LED light.
