Setting float level without float level gauge?

[Lawrence954]

Is there an alternate method to setting the float level on the GL 1000 carbs without the float level gauge (HC 23892)? The photo in the manual is difficult for me to interpret.

 

[flash2002]

I use one of these to adjust my floats.

 

[joedrum]

Hmmm I never used ...a gauge and just made them level looking with the carb body ..I’ve always felt this was the least thing to worry about ..the parts are so small there barely up to the task of working right ...certainly doing leak checks is way more important and clearing clogs ...

 

[pidjones]

I use a caliper also. But, not being a glutton for punishment, I use a digital (although I do have a vernier, and know how to use it). But if you have a caliper, you can also MAKE a level gauge out of some aluminum from a soft (or hard) drink can.

 

[dan filipi]

On the 1100 carbs, and I think holds true for the 1000 carbs, the float even with the carb body is the correct height. Best measure though to verify. I use a caliper also. They are pretty cheap.

 

[Lawrence954]

I set the float levels to where the bottom of the float is 21mm below the carb body. I cranked it awhile and it wouldn't start. In investigating I discovered all the bowls are dry. I pulled the fuel line and I know the fuel pump is working. How long should it take to fill the float bowls? I set the levels by bending the tabs on the frame above the pin that hold it in place. I thought I'd ask before I pull the rack out again. The photo in the manual is awful.

 

[joedrum]

Wow ..stock carbs are monsters ...you could possibly flow test them installed on bike but if it was me I’d take off ...as posted earlier float height is the least of the problems with stock carbs ...me personally my bike doesn’t have stock carbs at all ...I have weber carb on my bike ...but when I did use them I never put them on the bike till I flow tested them or as it sometimes called bench tested them ...it involves having testing to see if bowls fill up and then also they shut off fuel when bowls are full and leaving it that way a few hrs to see if they leak ...this is done with gravity feed fuel source about 4 ft above carb rack ...I used a old lawn mower tank for this test ...paper towels around the carb rack for fuel shut off test ...this doesn’t make carb work good but at least you know it’s getting gas and the floats are shutting it off ...should be a thread here somewhere that more better than my words on it and how to do it ..I’m just no good at finding anything lol ..it surprises me not one carb is getting gas though ....if this is your first dealing with these stock carbs hang in there it can be rough

 

[mcgovern61]

My carb testing station. Like Joe said, lawnmower gas tank elevated above the carbs. I connect my carbs, fill them from the tank and use the head pressure from the tank to check for leaks. While connected to the tank, I shake the carbs and roll them left and right up to 45 degrees to simulate riding in turns to see if gas leaks and whether the floats are actually sealing the float pins closed.

 

[flash2002]

Try this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni3TkgcyFAw


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPsX37fvGDo


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA0RyhkTtCs

 

[dan filipi]

I got curious once wondering what the actual float measurement was when the float needle stops the gas flow with the float set to spec. It was within a millimeter if memory serves. I used an electric fuel pump from a GL 1200, or another with the same pressure. There’s a video of it on our YouTube channel.
But anyway, I used the electric pump to bench test the carbs since it’s what I had at the time.
Using a pump might be more accurate than a remote tank since the test is using the pump it will be running on, but maybe that’s just “splitting hairs” and no matter.

 

[Lawrence954]

After reading Randakk's GL1000 floats 101 I see exactly what I did wrong. Oh well, I'll just suffer struggling with the throttle cable remove/replace. The worst part of the whole process of pulling the carbs in my opinion.

 

[pidjones]

After reading Randakk's GL1000 floats 101 I see exactly what I did wrong. Oh well, I'll just suffer struggling with the throttle cable remove/replace. The worst part of the whole process of pulling the carbs in my opinion.

Dissconnect/reconnect cables with the carbs to the side before bolting them down is the easiest.

When leak testing, use 91% isopropyl alcohol. Less smell, burns with less energy, and any left over evaporates or mixes with gasoline and burns on startup.

 

[rudolphwolven]

***
CLICK to enlarge........

 

[Lawrence954]

I've pulled the carbs and correctly set the float level to 21mm. To bench test it I attached my dirt bike tank with 3 gallons of gas. The two the right side leaked badly and the two on the left showed signs of slightly leaking although it may be attributed to the air box getting flooded from the two on the right. Is the method I used an accurate way to test them? If it is, then the new needles and seats that I installed are junk. I examined them with a magnifying glass and they appear ok. Someone in this thread used a vacuum method but I don't know how to perform that test. If a full tank of fuel is not enough pressure to cause float problems on my KTM then I would think it would be a good way to test the Honda floats.

 

[flash2002]

Just make sure that when you adjust the floats, you adjust them with carbs standing on there side. The floats should be just closing lightly and not put there full weight on the needles.

 

[rudolphwolven]

Lawrence954 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 4:21 am[/url]":27asboua]
I've pulled the carbs and correctly set the float level to 21mm. To bench test it I attached my dirt bike tank with 3 gallons of gas. The two the right side leaked badly and the two on the left showed signs of slightly leaking although it may be attributed to the air box getting flooded from the two on the right. Is the method I used an accurate way to test them? If it is, then the new needles and seats that I installed are junk. I examined them with a magnifying glass and they appear ok. Someone in this thread used a vacuum method but I don't know how to perform that test. If a full tank of fuel is not enough pressure to cause float problems on my KTM then I would think it would be a good way to test the Honda floats.

***
In my GL1000 K1 renovation job I first checked/adjusted the bowl levels at 21 mm just as "flash2002" says.
As showed in the pictures of my previous post than tested the level of each chamber by the "communicating" levels visible in open ended plastic tubes connected to the drain bolt opening in each bowl; sealed by some windings of electr. insulation tape
I checked the level in the tubes by a caliper (see pictures); all at atmospheric pressure.
If the float pins succeed to close at atmosferic pressure they will certainly do with fuel pump pressure
Indeed they kept the level with standing bike (tank related pressure) and running bike (pump related pressure).
The tiny amount of gasoline was poured into the orange pouring funnel in the picture..........

 

[Lawrence954]

Right, After reviewing the instructions, I realize I'm an idiot. Float adjustment, Take 3.

 

[joedrum]

Yes this is the big problem ...springs in these carbs are small weak ..window of operation is narrow...float weight without fuel involved drastically different...any friction of parts can and will have huge effect on springs...bowls are small as in how much gas is involved...thiscall adds up to it takes dam near nothing for them to fail period ..if you use new seats and needles...your dealing with parts that have no history of never working yet ...this all adds up to pot luck in actually working ...by this I mean ...if the window of operation is so narrow your in the area of hand fitting the parts as in seat and needle to get a fit that can be relied on....the way things are made now days ..reliving on parts to be at this level is a huge gamble...all this stuff along with thilthy gas sold today makes carbs hard to keep in there narrow window of operation very hard ...I can remember having to work with some carbs on a rack to get them to seal a lot ..even the floats can be very tricky to get them consistent...

When I modified my bike and put in a 1200 motor and early 1000 cams and 1100 heads notched pistons ...the motor made using stock carbs completely a no go period ....there was no way stock carbs and there narrow window of operation was going to work ...for the reasons disgust here and other reason also like vacuum ...as there is no direct hook up of throttle to carbs ..there are some who have motors similar to mine and have been trying stock carbs for yrs without much success it seems even though they say otherwise ...said all this to point out one thing ...the stock set up of carbs are very hard to get right ...probably the most finically system on a oldwing ...even at there best ..the gas charge starts out lean and is why it takes revs to get going good ....so hang in there ...I call stock carbs dependent carbs ...they depend everything else to work as good as they do ...to me the weakest system on a oldwing ..the motors have so much more than the stock carbs can provide in my opinion...you will get it I’m sure you seem very determined ...

 

[pidjones]

Are you certain the floats are where the leak is? There is also the large o-ring between the two plenum haves, and an odd gasket with a tall cross-section between each carb and the plenum. BTW, using 91% isopropyl alcohol is a bit safer and easier to clean up than gasoline. Vacuum is not so much good for testing the floats as it is good for testing the other seals. A MightyVac can be reversed and provide the same pressure as the GL1000 fuel pump, however. This shows the rack upside-down for vacuum testing. An initial test fof big leaks before the alcohol. Then they are flipped, alcohol put in, the pump connection switched (as shown), and pressure monitored on an automotive fuel/vacuum gauge (connected to the tube out the top in the photo). Pump and gauge available at Harbor Freight.

 

[Ansimp]

pidjones » Sun Feb 03, 2019 11:49 pm[/url]":ryulabmw]
Are you certain the floats are where the leak is? There is also the large o-ring between the two plenum haves, and an odd gasket with a tall cross-section between each carb and the plenum. BTW, using 91% isopropyl alcohol is a bit safer and easier to clean up than gasoline. Vacuum is not so much good for testing the floats as it is good for testing the other seals. A MightyVac can be reversed and provide the same pressure as the GL1000 fuel pump, however. This shows the rack upside-down for vacuum testing. An initial test fof big leaks before the alcohol. Then they are flipped, alcohol put in, the pump connection switched (as shown), and pressure monitored on an automotive fuel/vacuum gauge (connected to the tube out the top in the photo). Pump and gauge available at Harbor Freight.

Great information. :salute: