Captain mislead wrote:
I would double check for any air inleakage as another precaution against the backfiring heard only at the exhaust. It may be a ignition-related parts versus timing issue though.
Check the plugs for a reading. If they appear to be handling a rich condition, then no, leave the gap at the factory spec for now. The smaller gap promotes easier ignition within the dynamics of the combustion chamber.
The resistor at the coils is for the coils, ...primarily.
The condenser is what saves your points from burning up, ...primarily.
As all are interrelated, dead-on firing to the plugs in relation the cams is the most important thing now. A first is first approach, meaning mechanical timing and electrical ignition timing must be paralleled in importance so that the carb can be tuned accurately.
My experience is that when those two parallels above are met, induction tuning begins. Much frustration may come your way if the cart preceeds the horse. The engine must run near normal idle to deal with fine tuning the ignition adjustments. You don't want the ignition advance mechanism to play a role in setting base idle, so working on both the induction and the ignition to conquer the tuning of both may become frustrating if not approached methodically.
Use the factory manual and set the overall timing according to Honda.
Disconnect the throttle cable.
Start from there to find curb idle. It should idle at 1000-1100 rpm. Curb (or base) idle should be abpe to turn down to a stall at around 400 rpm on a well constructed(?) manifold combination.
Once it's idling within the above mentioned rpm, then attach your cable.
So now that you've heard it run and have ridden it, enjoy the nuances of tuning it for the potential drivability ahead.
It will get better!
opcorn: :fishin:
