The plan is to turn 140,000 into 50,000

[joedrum]

Nice looking tool

 

[chilidawg]

Okay so here's where I'm at right now, at least for a couple of days until the #3 JIS turns up.

It might appear that you don't need to remove the clutch cover, but you do! 2 of its fasteners (at about 4 o'clock) are studs and nuts that extend through to the motor case.

The pulsar case and the rear case have locator lugs that inhibit removal, be patient and use a rubber hammer.

In my case the final drive shaft/spring came off in the rear case, I just pulled it out and wiggled it back into the motor but I think I just got lucky there, because that's why they have that cover on the right side, to help you locate it properly. Oh! and as you pull the case off the starter motor sprocket is gonna want to disappear into the farthest reaches of your work area.

Nothing in it except the alternator that I'm hoping is a good move to replace with a Randakk upgrade.

Now you can see why I'm waiting for the JIS #3.

 

[joedrum]

Do you have a hand powered impact ..the stator comes right off using one of those with bits that come with them ...there very cheap really and a great tool to have ..on my last stator job witch was just a few weeks ago I used a drill bit and drilled the heads of the screws off and pulled the stator out and remove the headless screw out cause I didn’t have the hand impact wrench ... opcorn:

 

[chilidawg]

The screwdriver I'm waiting for is a full tang impact or a hand screwdriver, now if I'll replace these screws with something different? I don't know yet. I'm kinda hoping they've never got to come out again.

 

[pidjones]

Yeah, I bought Motion Pro #2 and #3 JIS 1/4" hex bits through Amazon. Use the #2 a LOT in a 1/4 hex to square adapter on my 1/4 drive screwdriver handle, and the #3 has no substitute for some screws (like the stator cover on my '79 CB750F). I just have the #3 in a 3/8" Craftsman adapter that had a Torx in it that I broke. I keep them on a Tee handle which provides all of the torque that I've needed so far.

 

[kerryb]

1. Nice shop!
2. Nice project: I did that once, it was fun.
3. Couldn't do without the hand impact drivers (with jis tips).
4. If you plan to remove the clutch, I made the socket and basket holder when I did mine. You could borrow them but the postage is probably more than the cost to make your own!
5. Yes, please do bring us along for the build...you could learn a lot from the mistakes we won't let you repeat

 

[chilidawg]

These are the old Honda alternator and the new upgraded Randakk unit side by side.

So far I can see that the Randakk has a pretty billet Aluminum case plug and a longer set of wires. So far that's the only "upgrade" I can see, and guess what? The Honda plug never leaked and the wires where just long enough.

If there's a A/C voltage or DC amperage advantage. I guess I'll find out at a later stage. I just hope that if there is, the rectifier can handle it.

Well it would have been better if the photos where like for like, but you get my drift.

 

[chilidawg]

Whilst carrying out gasket prep, a job I've hated since I was an apprentice, I found this little smear of rubber cement, right where three cases come together.

All I know is that if the old Nippon guy that was the last person ever to see the inside of this engine, (probably retired and living comfortably in the foothills of mount Fugi by now) thought it was a good idea!

Then I for damn sure do too!!!

 

[chilidawg]

kerryb » Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:47 pm[/url]":29lb1erk]
1. Nice shop!
2. Nice project: I did that once, it was fun.
3. Couldn't do without the hand impact drivers (with jis tips).
4. If you plan to remove the clutch, I made the socket and basket holder when I did mine. You could borrow them but the postage is probably more than the cost to make your own!
5. Yes, please do bring us along for the build...you could learn a lot from the mistakes we won't let you repeat

Thank you for all the good thoughts!

4. I think that clutch is staying exactly where it is for now.
It looks better than the one I cobbled together out of new parts and "within spec" parts, 2 years ago, so my plan right now is to leave it alone, as well as the fact that we all know a goldwing clutch is good for 100,000 miles of anybody's money.
Thanks anyway Kerry.

 

[Ansimp]

Nice work.
opcorn: opcorn:

 

[chilidawg]

This is the Randakk stator mostly installed all but Loctite and a final screwing down.

Do y'all think I might have an issue with the proximity of the wire to the rotor, it is leaning right up against the back of the stator.

The billet plug is properly installed and the stator is in the only place the screws will allow it to go.

Also the wires are bonded into the plug and can't be pulled through.

Hmmm!!??

 

[dan filipi]

Yeah hmmm.

The stator doing what it does, does get hot, but it looks like the wires are wrapped in the good insulation so it might be okay?

Looking at it closer, the rotor might rub the wires? Not good. Seems to me, and looks like, the wires can be tucked in behind the stator.

 

[chilidawg]

Yes I can push them in, but they just spring right on back to that position and it's not like I could jerryrig a cable tie anywhere to hold them in place either.

I've got a question in to Randakks to see if maybe the plug was bonded in the wrong position in this batch, or if it's normal and it'll be just fine.

Looking at the old Honda unit for some inspiration I did notice another reason this stator can be considered an upgrade.

There's at least twice as much stator pick-up area as the Honda unit. Didn't notice that before.

 

[joedrum]

What did you pay for that sator ...yes I bought the same one new for 57dollars and free shipping ..I just did it ...that what I thought ...the stator plug was fixed in the wrong position was the flaw

 

[chilidawg]

I paid over $100 from Randakks, plus tax of course.

I got an answer back from them today.

"Wires just touching an item is not anything to be concerned. The continuous rotation of a rotor would be. We have sold quite a few of these and not had any negative feed back to compare to your situation. We do suggest you ensure the wires are not against moving parts. If you must move the wires to eliminate contact be sure to apply a sealant to the plug."

So seeing as it was pretty obvious they weren't gonna just up and send me a good one, I dug out the bonding sealant and pulled the wires through some, did manage to destroy some insulation in the process, but nothing some heat shrink sleeving wouldn't fix, then sealed it with Permatex.

Now I've got this.

Just waiting on a new final drive oil seal and it's ready to go back on.

But y'know what? now that I've laid an oily rag on it, I think I'll just keep this one...

It looked like this before..

Waste of $25 but it was hard to get so I'm sure someone like me is on eBay looking for one.

 

[joedrum]

Well it looks like did better than I did ...but it seems on mine with the 84 1200 motor the wires is to long but not in the rotor path ..I’m sure I took a pic of it ..I’ll have to look again at it

 

[chilidawg]

Well the re-installation of the rear case went well, one little "if" concerning the top clutch cover bolt, but I'll report back about that later if it rears its ugly head.

Then the final drive oil seal arrived, (the one I'd decided not to replace,) for good reason then, 'cos it just didn't seem necessary, but I didn't know it was gonna show up looking like this, my thoughts were of a naked oil seal.

So now not only is it not a pry out hazard to other components, (I'd thought that what the actual seal was contained in was a little weak looking and a bad effort at removing it could cause problems.) And! I don't have to watch it on eBay for months either.

The old one came out real easy, once I knew what I was dealing with.

And here's the new one installed

Thank you Mr. Honda for employing the K.I.S.S. method. Because now, even I can do it!

 

[Ansimp]

:good: :salute:

 

[Denver]

Good you replaced it, :good: sure is easier while its apart already. :yes:

 

[joedrum]

And the work continues....really nice chilli