Tips on installing a fuel pump?

[chilidawg]

I've done this a number of times.

Sometimes it's easy, other times it's hard, but it always went on ok.

But this time I messed it up real bad.

Anyhow, new pump and gaskets on the way. So in the meantime, have you old dawgs got any tips for nailing it every time?

 

[Denver]

Switched to 84 Prelude electric on my 1200's, :good: also on 1100's to replace the stockers. :yes: Wired to shut off the power with the kill switch, on those. :thank_you:

 

[joedrum]

hmm the cam has a lobe on it ...make sure its in the almost no pressure on the fuel pump arm so it slips in the easiest ....

 

[mcgovern61]

I have to go look at my pump, but I seem to remember that I always take it off the mount and the mount off the head. I think I then attach it to the mount and then put the whole assembly back on the head?

 

[chilidawg]

joedrum » Fri Feb 19, 2016 6:59 pm[/url]":2decjqr0]
hmm the cam has a lobe on it ...make sure its in the almost no pressure on the fuel pump arm so it slips in the easiest ....

Yes Sir, it must have a cam to work, but when you spin it in your fingers its hard to tell if it's even "out of round", let alone if there's a cam on that end of the shaft.

Hard to know where the low point is?

 

[chilidawg]

mcgovern61 » Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:07 pm[/url]":dj9ufwhk]
I have to go look at my pump, but I seem to remember that I always take it off the mount and the mount off the head. I think I then attach it to the mount and then put the whole assembly back on the head?

Yes I understand it has two halves, upper and lower, operating lever comes from the upper, so you'd think loosening the upper and lifting it would make it fit, right where it's supposed to go, then you tighten lower first and upper last.

But how do you physically, get a wrench of any kind on the upper front 12mm bolt, when it's all in place?

That was plan "B". But that's what I ended up with. that dang tach cable is in the way, all the time.

 

[slabghost]

Pull the tach cable then the whole thing.Lift the rear a little above the front both removing and installing.

 

[brianinpa]

The back mounting bolt for the base holds the tach cable in place. Once that bolt removed, the cable comes out and as long as the front bolt has already been removed, the pump should just fall off.

 

[joedrum]

ok chilli get it done ...its not that big a deal ....seems about all the info the job has ...has been mentioned :builder:

 

[AApple]

When installing the pump, assuming it is still connected to the housing, simply rotate the housing left/right as you push it forward toward the head. The pump/housing will rotate quite a bit, so you should be able to find the sweet spot fairly easily. It may also help to twist the housing up/down while rotating. I've been able to install my pump/housing more than once like this, with no real problem. You do need to pull the tach cable out of the housing, if it's not out already. :good:

 

[dan filipi]

Use a socket and ratchet on the upper 12 mm bolt.

 

[chilidawg]

Okay, I know this this thread seems really frivolous, especially since ya'll know I've been working on this bike for years.

And I've never had this problem before, either!

But for some reason, this time, the pump arm will not just ride up the camshaft ramp like it always has.

The upshot is that it will run for about a minute on the gas that the Weber's accelerator pump puts in it, and then just shut down.

Look at the photo and you'll see what I'm talking about, you'll see where the cam is grinding into it.

And check out the heat signature on that arm.

 

[slabghost]

Ouchies! Looks like it's offset just enough to be riding alongside the lobe. Instead of on it. Definitely looks to be out of position somehow. try installing it pump down to get the arm in place then up to fit bolts.

 

[Denver]

Is the metal discolored on the end? :headscratchon't remember if the one's on my 1100's were ever out, :nea: the one on the 1100 with the Prelude pump was for someone else & never saw the one he took out. :roll: Looks like the ones replaced on old Chevy's, decade's ago opcorn:

 

[Omega Man]

Wow, that pump is Ef'd in the A. No wonder you were asking so many questions, I've never seen one do that. Bent pushrod?

~O~

 

[dan filipi]

The arm isn't riding on the cam lobe, it's missing the lobe as it goes in and scraping the end of the cam.
Is the pump arm bent? I have 1 here and it should be perfectly straight.

 

[joedrum]

ok chilli ive been computerr down for awhile ...whats going on here is you have 75 cams in your motor ...and 75 cams the lobe is short in length ....honda made lobes bigger in 76 on...the pump your using is just hasnt got the arm in the right place to jell with your cam ...certainly dont try to use this pump ....damage to the cam needs to be look at ...in my opinion

 

[chilidawg]

Well, yet again Joe, you just nailed it! I just offered up an 82 cam to the 75 and it is for sure about a 1/4" shorter on the 75.

I can see the wear marks on both, and where the pump arm rides on the 75 is right on the end, I guess I just got lucky the first time it went on, now, not so much!

So from here, I can either get a 76 cam, or I guess a 75 fuel pump. There are 3, 76 cams on eBay right now, but do they have the same main valve lobes as the 75?

I think I'm going to contact the sellers and ask them to measure the length of the fuel pump cam, for starters.

 

[ekvh]

I think aussiegold or some posted them a few years back. As I recall, only the 75 had the shorter camshaft stub for fuel pump, and it may have only been a partial year. I'm wondering if they originally didn't have the thick spacer in the early ones.

 

[joedrum]

76 and 77 ...371 cams have longer cam lobe yes ....if your cam is not damaged ..id say you can find a pump that will work ..i did on hooch ....id say new pumps are probably made wrong to a point of not working right on 75 cams but whatever ...im glad you know whats up now chilli ...terrible when you dont know what the issue is .....