trouble with rear break

shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
J

jpwinger

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
268
Reaction score
0
Location
Elwood Indiana
80 gl1100 rear break drags and rotor stays hot. I have changed master cylinder,bracket for caliper and caliper. With no change. let run on center stand in 3rd gear around 2500 rpm. rotor gets very hot. What is posision of rod on master cyclinder need to be at on breake pedal.Maybe that is my problem. Not sure how to adjust it there. I have cleaned master cylinder and rubber parts looked good. used pbpblaster brake parts cleaner and air pressure to clean master cylinder with rubber parts out of cylinder. caliper seems free slides seem fine. What to do next?????
 
Are you using aftermarket exhaust or OEM? (I know...weird huh....you wuz asking about brakes!)

I had Jardine exhaust and it did not have the little cutout for the shock bolts which also allowed for clearance at the brake pedal arm. When my bike was on the center stand, it was OK. Drop it down and ride, the brake control arm was touching the muffler causing the brake to grab slightly, but more importantly, covered the return hole inside the MC and would not allow the brakes to release. I readjusted the brake arm out of the way and stopped that from being a problem.

How old are your brake lines? The rubber does break down eventually and can come apart inside the line creating a check valve that will not allow the brake caliper to release.

Just some thoughts.
 
Does your brake pedal release completely it can bind up and be hard to move..should be easy to press down with you hand and snap right back up.

Try releasing the bleeder valve when the brake is dragging for a 1/2 second.. does it release..if so blocked line as stated above or your master isn't releasing..rebuild again..ior if not your piston in the caliper could be binding due to pitting catching on the rubber o ring..or crud in the cup..or???
 
Thanks for the reply Garry & RBG and the ideas. Found the problem. Had extra caliper changed that and bled useing brake pedal,not vac pump . I also have 77 gl100 it had jardine exhaust when I got it but traded for very nice OEM exhaust. I reminber the bolt you are talking about. Oh also checked free play at rod to rear breake pedal. Don't know about you guys but it seems I need lots of spare parts. Just really getting 1980 gl1100 going it sit for 14 yrs in a garage. Everthing has needed attention. But I am very close I think!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Going for short ride next few days will be in the 50,s The 1100 has califorina sidecar that I want to get set up before spring. Thanks again for the replys more heads are better than one.
 
I wuz gonna say it sounds like the piston in the caliper wuz hangin up. Since you changed the caliper, and all is well, that must have been the problem. Mine did the same thing.
 
AApple":3jd2d2lp said:
I wuz gonna say it sounds like the piston in the caliper wuz hangin up. Since you changed the caliper, and all is well, that must have been the problem. Mine did the same thing.
Click to expand...
A good set of stainless steel ones (made in germany) would fix the problem right away if that's the case.
 
All is well with back breaks now. Must have been the calpier. Stops good and stays cool now. No drag on back wheel. All back togeather . Rode yeasterday it was nice out 58 deg. Time to put the califorina sidecar back on today . I need to post cluch question about cluch noise when leting out cluch lever. what kind of noise is normal. and will adujisting at cluch not on cable make any change. I have play on lever.
 

Latest posts

Top