While changing the water pump #@!***

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thewhiterhino

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While I was changing my water pump I discovered some frightening amounts of metal shavings in the bottom of the cover and trans housing.

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After I got my heart started again I got a magnet and ran it around in the mess and lo and behold nothing stuck to the magnet.
I considered the meaning of this and since it looked like copper (which I originally assumed to be part of the bearing plating) but without any steel I am guessing it must be from the synchronizers in the transmission since they are usually made of copper.
Any experience or thoughts?? :help:
 
Ross, I wish I could help but the only time I have ever opened up an 1100 is when I found this in my '82 donor:

#4 piston rod.JPG


You will notice that the case did not want to be opened gently! :smilie_happy:
 
You were lucky to get that case open at all.. :smilie_happy:


I have built a number of other engines and if there is metal in the pan it is a sad day. However I have never opened one with the combined transmission before.
I have opened very few transmissions but have seen some copper filings from the synchronizers. I just don't know if the Goldwing transmission has copper or any sychronizers for that matter. :mrgreen:
 
No, no syncro's in these transmissions.

I looked at your photos pretty closely and see only a very small amount of super tiny copper colored specs.
Unless there are more than that I wouldnt worry about it.

What is the purplish red junk on the bottom?
 
dan filipi":3s3fj7d4 said:
No, no syncro's in these transmissions.

I looked at your photos pretty closely and see only a very small amount of super tiny copper colored specs.
Unless there are more than that I wouldnt worry about it.

What is the purplish red junk on the bottom?

That is the oil and copper particles in the bottom. Maybe from the bushings in the transmission? This engine has 69,000 miles and I don't think its ever been open before.
 
I'm with Dan on it. I don't see enough poop in there to really be concerned. Any machine is gonna shed some materials. That's the purpose of the oil filter. Some of the poop is going to settle in areas of low fluid flow, like the front cover.
btw...synchro rings are made of bronze, usually, but some are brass. ;) Totally irrelevant, however, since the Wings are synchro-less.
Normal bushings(such as main & rod bearings) are of a babbit construction on a steel backing, but may have a thin copper layer between the steel, and the babbit. I would say if that stuff was from you main or rod bearings, you'd definitely have a serious noise. :sensored:
 
Depends on the oil...RedLine, and Royal Purple oils look like that after a few miles... :mrgreen:
 
I happened to think of the possibility of an oil additive that has metal in it. Years ago I used a product called CLM that had very fine metal in it that the claim was that it would fill the imperfections in cylinder walls and actually re surface the bearings, maybe this residue is from something like that. BTW I use Amsoil Motorcycle oil and it does have a darker color even when new.
 
It might be a good idea when you get it back together to do an engine flush and clean the oil pickup screen afterward.

I'd flush it with some cheapo 30 wt and a 1/2 qt of tranny fluid by running it at a high idle for a couple fan cycles then drain when the oil is hot. Empty the drain pan slowly and check what you have in the bottom.
It could just be like you say that additive.
 
I ran Seafoam in the oil for about 25 miles before taking it apart for the water pump and put in the Amsoil and a new filter. I ran only about 50 more miles before the cold shut me down and so tackled the leaking radiator and at that time I checked the water pump which was loose and had the plastic impeller as well. I ordered the gaskets and pump and did the job and now have it back together and have started it but no riding right now.
By your instruction to check the screen I assume it is accessible from underneath? Does the access have a gasket or o-ring?
 
OK so when I warm it up to drain the water and install the antifreeze I will also drain the oil again and check the screen. Thanks for the help. :yes: :yes: I'll let you know if I find anything interesting.
 
When I disassembled my 1980 with 84k on it I had what seemed to be an excessive ammount of what seemed to be aluminum (dust) of sorts. The very bottom of the engine case has a natural low spot that is trapped by the front bolt that holds the side engine guards on. I later learned that the rod and main bearings were done, so I think that it probably was not serviced well in its prior life. For me, there are two things I will be doing in the future: Make sure the oil is changed every 2-3000 miles, and when I do change the oil make sure the rear of the bike is elevated as to try to get all of the sediment out that I possibly can. I Also agree with what dan is saying regarding the flushing of the engine. Hope this helps out some.
 
Dano":1pj0610q said:
When I disassembled my 1980 with 84k on it I had what seemed to be an excessive ammount of what seemed to be aluminum (dust) of sorts. The very bottom of the engine case has a natural low spot that is trapped by the front bolt that holds the side engine guards on. I later learned that the rod and main bearings were done, so I think that it probably was not serviced well in its prior life. For me, there are two things I will be doing in the future: Make sure the oil is changed every 2-3000 miles, and when I do change the oil make sure the rear of the bike is elevated as to try to get all of the sediment out that I possibly can. I Also agree with what dan is saying regarding the flushing of the engine. Hope this helps out some.

Hey Dano, was that engine making any noise or knocking with the wiped out bearings?
 
Yes, it did make some noise at the time I thought it was either low oil pressure, or the bearings. After I reassembled it and finally was able to get all the carbs in tune, the only sound I can hear now is the occasional primary chain slap once in awhile. Hope this helps.
 
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