Why would 1984 Gl1200 not restart?

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Nightcorona

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I went out for a Ride Stop in a few places came home bike stalled tried to start up to move it acted like it was out to power couldnt turn over all the way then few minutes later started right up and charger said 90 percent what could do this?
 
Possible it was partly hydro locked. I suggest you check the carbs and especially the enrichener aka choke.
 
I also noted that the head lights and lights dimmed when i pulled the brakes when idling is this normal?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179712#p179712:bb3qbwcw said:
Nightcorona » Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:41 am[/url]":bb3qbwcw]
I also noted that the head lights and lights dimmed when i pulled the brakes when idling is this normal?
Only if the battery is very weak.At idle there is very little charging available.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179717#p179717:1px3fbsf said:
slabghost » Sat Sep 03, 2016 2:11 am[/url]":1px3fbsf]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179712#p179712:1px3fbsf said:
Nightcorona » Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:41 am[/url]":1px3fbsf]
I also noted that the head lights and lights dimmed when i pulled the brakes when idling is this normal?
Only if the battery is very weak.At idle there is very little charging available.
+1
Unless it is only a little dimmer ( hardly noticeable in daylight).
If you check with a multimeter you will notice there is not a lot of charge at idle. Do the same test at 2000 rpm.
 
I went out for a Ride Stop in a few places came home bike stalled tried to start up to move it acted like it was out to power couldnt turn over all the way then few minutes later started right up and charger said 90 percent what could do this?

Could be a Intermittent Short ciricuit, last one I had was in the brake light wiring. I found it once it degraded tha main fuse till it blew. Was a old splice that rubbed tha insulation until it made a good solid ground. I was happy it did :BigGrin:
 
Depending on the charger the 90% reading may not really be telling you what load is available out of the battery. I load tested a customer's battery that was flat after sitting 9 days at the airport and it tested fine after charging. After a couple of ordinary starts he went with a new battery and is now happy. I couldn't fault his old battery during testing. :doh:
 
A high resistant connection could be tha culpirt allso. They can be Intermittent also. I carry a cheap little inductive amp meter that will give a quick rough reading on starter draw and charging .Just hold it on tha wire and crank yer motor. If it draws no amps
Its probally a loose connection

amps.https://www.stuttgartperformanceengineer ... mater.html
inducammpx1web.jpg

quote"
Nifty Tools: Inductive Ammeter

A small and inexpensive tool that will fit in your track tool box is an Inductive Ammeter Tool Set (SNAP-ON P/N MT1009, price about $40.00). This is a very useful tool for diagnosing problems in the electrical system that cannot be found easily by any other method. For instance, it will answer the question " Is there enough current from the alternator (generator) to supply the current consumers (headlights, heater fan, AC etc.) on the car?" It will also answer the question "Is there is enough additional current to charge the battery?" It can determine if the charging system is overcharging the battery, and also can check the starter draw to see if the starter is dragging and depleting the battery excessively.
 
My meters were stolen back in the great house robbery of 2013 and Snap On no longer makes them. I managed to pick up a Sears one but it is not half the quality of my old Snap On ones. :(
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179916#p179916:2ujxngld said:
jnp17331 » Mon Sep 05, 2016 7:20 pm[/url]":2ujxngld]
https://wk101651475.company.weiku.com/Cant beat Snap on for quality. They do show up on ebay once in a while.https://www.ebay.com/itm/INDUCTION-...934368?hash=item1c6cf2c760:g:MsMAAOSwsTxXinRm This one looks good for a cheap bike carry with job.
s-l1600.jpg


To use this type ya clip tha big starter/battery cable under tha top long tang for tha high range. Clip small wires like charging wire under tha short tang for low range readings.
s-l1600.jpg
Looks like a version of my Sears one.
 
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bOK I got stuck when it quit while I was driving. I took the battery to be tested and they said that it was 100 percent. I checked for resistance on the ground wire there was none. I checked all connections on relay. I decided it was probably the starter. I am in process of cleaning it. I noted that also it had a silver heat shield on it before that I didn't put back. Is this something that could cause an overheat situation? The gears look totally bare almost I'm wondering if I have just found the problem?
 
Lack of the heat shield could allow the starter to overheat from the exhaust right there, or at least reduce it's life.
A hot starter might turn slower than when it's cool.

The gears look ok to me.
 
0917160016.jpg
0917160015.jpg
0917160008.jpg
OK down to the nity gritty. I noticed a nice mess on the inside. I noticed the bushing on the back side of the starter pulled out with the outer part as well leaving only the case on the back. How do you clean and lube these front and back parts of the shaft ?
 
Th commutator need polishing up with some fine emery paper/tape. Sealed bearing on that end I would replace with a new one and locktight (bearing mount type) it into the housing on reassembly.
I looked in the parts diagram and I assume that the front bearing is a bush where it goes into the front reduction housing. There isn't a listing for the rear bearing or the bush in the parts diagram but they may be accessible from other sources. The bush I would try and squeeze some oil through it and use some grease on the shaft as well.
 
OK put it all back on the bike and it sounded better but the problem is that the first couple of pulses from the starter are stained then after that it turns real quick. I am wondering about a crappy battery amp wise or possibly the hydolock issue mentioned earlier. Can a crappy starter relay be not connecting good? This one look real beat up.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180997#p180997:1h9c0n9z said:
Nightcorona » Wed Sep 21, 2016 1:40 pm[/url]" Can a crappy starter relay be not connecting good? This one look real beat up.
Fairly unlikely as they only make contact when they are first energised and usually the first connection is the best.
 
OK checked them again cleaned with dremel. It only happens when it is hot. The starter sounds brand new when I start it the first time. So maybe the hydrolock is the answer but what am I looking for? I am not a carb expert.
 

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