'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW

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The 1200's use the stock wiring set up. :good: The 1100's i've wired so the kill switch shuts them down. :wave: Been a year or two since the last 1100, but think that it may have been at the coil. :headscratch: But they are mounted the same way. :yes: The pump's work great on all my 1200's, as well as any others i've done. :yahoo:
 
When I replaced the old glass tube fuse box with an ATC fuse box, I re-wired the fuel pump source in the process. I had an extra fuse outlet available so, I have a dedicated 10amp fuse for the fuel pump relay. That is the size for the 1200 Pump, Nuetral, and Oil circuit.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=185580#p185580:33tatwwg said:
brianinpa » Mon Jan 02, 2017 5:47 pm[/url]":33tatwwg]
When I replaced the old glass tube fuse box with an ATC fuse box, I re-wired the fuel pump source in the process. I had an extra fuse outlet available so, I have a dedicated 10amp fuse for the fuel pump relay.
Click to expand...
That is a sweet setup :good:
 
The source no longer comes from the starter solenoid, so it keeps everything neat and tidy. I used a Buss ATC fuse block, but I have since bought a Blue Sea 8 circuit fuse block that is going in the next time the tank shelter comes off. That will free up two more fuses for future use.
 
So I cut the B/W wire where it enters the back of the connector at the coils. On the piece that goes into the connector I soldered a brown wire that will provide power to the coils and be switched by one pole of my relay. On the other B/W end I soldered a green wire that will be the + control wire to the coil of the relay. The other pole of the relay will switch the power to the fuel pump. The power feed from the battery will feed both poles of the relay.
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I will have the relay, wrapped in something soft and insulating and tucked behind the left side cover loose. That way I can pull it out to get at it or to replace the relay with a spare if it goes south.
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That doesn't sound right at all. Tap off the coil feed to energize the relay with the other terminal to ground. Power from battery to the contact on relay. Other contact to feed the pump. Mount the relay so it remains vertical. Loose it may lose contact over bumps.
 
The green wire is the control wire to my relay. It is connected to the B/W coil feed wire which doesn't go to the coils any more. It now just feeds the ignitors and the relay. The coils will be fed directly from the relay. I could position the relay vertically, would be better.
 
The relay will switch the coils (to reduce voltages drops through switches), as well as the pump. I'm using separate relay contacts for each because contacts are rated for 10 amps each.
 
If you have three tabs for contacts one is probably normally on and will be off when energized. Powering both the coils and pump through the relay is a good idea though. I used some female crimp on connectors that have male tabs to connect extra circuits. Like the one you are doing.
 
So I got my wiring done so now, when I turn the key to RUN the pump starts and there is power to the coils. The pump is louder and vibrates more than I expected :shock: . Don't know what they run like but I imagined it humming away smoothly but not this one. Haven't got the fuel lines hooked up yet, but will soon, and will see if it pumps gas. :beg:
 
Fuel cools, lubes things, as well as to quiet them a bit. :yes: They work flawlessly on all i've seen & done. :good: The pump is isolated from mounting plate with a rubber gasket, no need to isolate from grounding. :nea: I did the same thing with the mounting as you before i saw the gasket was there. :whistling:
 
I got the fuel lines hooked up and turned key on. Pumped gas into a can. Pump is way quieter now...makes sort of a ticking sound.

Then I wanted to see what would happen if it was hooked up to the carb. I wanted to see that it would not push fuel past the float and flood the carb after it was full. What happened, when I turned the key on, was that the pump made the same ticking sound but the ticks got slower until the pump was silent. Is that how it is supposed to work...when carb fills up and pump stops pumping?

Here is my setup.
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Thanks
Brian
 
Good point Slab :shock: Thanks

Anyway, it looks like everything is working as it should for the electric pump. Just need the gaskets and o-rings I ordered so I can finish putting this baby together. And FIRE IT UP :rocks: :rocks:
 
Looking forward to it! Keep in mind most of the single carbs need float levels lower than for car applications.
 

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