Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

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on 1100s they have the hidden vacuum advance like behind the motor ..it could be sticking some ...you can unplug the hose that goes to from the carbs an draw on it ...to see if you can feel and hear it move ...as for coil replacement only id go to hondaman .com to look at his stuff ...he like caters to these old honda ignitions ...and is about the best there is in products for them ...1100 coils tend to crack and be rather no good....pass that C5 is the only true upgrade for ignitions on 1100s ...but never forget it could be all carbs also doing this ...

there is also the sparkers to look at there under the shelter and get hot and melt and cause problems too ...some of these ignition seem to never fail ...personally i cant stand them ...good luck
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177415#p177415:1rdyd2qo said:
made2care » Fri Jul 22, 2016 11:00 am[/url]":1rdyd2qo]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177414#p177414:1rdyd2qo said:
joedrum » 4 minutes ago[/url]":1rdyd2qo]
when all this start ..i thought the motor was running good

motor runs well but lags at idle and sometimes misfires.
# 4 plug is wet with gas. that exhaust does not heat up.
number 4 carb is probably messed up. Stuck float maybe.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177420#p177420:trwryt0a said:
slabghost » Today, 11:45 am[/url]":trwryt0a]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177415#p177415:trwryt0a said:
made2care » Fri Jul 22, 2016 11:00 am[/url]":trwryt0a]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177414#p177414:trwryt0a said:
joedrum » 4 minutes ago[/url]":trwryt0a]
when all this start ..i thought the motor was running good

motor runs well but lags at idle and sometimes misfires.
# 4 plug is wet with gas. that exhaust does not heat up.
number 4 carb is probably messed up. Stuck float maybe.

I think you've told me this before and I never have pulled the carbs. Will try ATF then see what happens.
 
81 carbs need the jets pried out.Book says they are NOT removable. I forced in a drywall screw then used wire cutter pliers to lever them out. Leave the screw in place while cleaning and use it to tap the jets back into place. All the working stuff is inside the jet below the screw. Visible hole where you put the screw bottoms out and is not supposed to be open.
 
Carbs are out!! Man, dirty!! Not too bad removing. About 10 min
 

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Some fight them a long time the first time they remove them. Congratulations! As much as you've already done. I'll bet you get this done right too.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177658#p177658:1drbnnhk said:
slabghost » Today, 2:51 pm[/url]":1drbnnhk]
Some fight them a long time the first time they remove them. Congratulations! As much as you've already done. I'll bet you get this done right too.

Well, I would like to do this. Tempting to just ship them off but I think I can do it. Have not purchased Randakk kit yet. A little pricey I think but its the best.
 
hmmmmm randakks is closed right now i hear ....better check things out like idle screws and needles floats as none of this stuff comes in randakks kits ....stock carbs are a bear and intimidating but can be done ...personally ill never use a stock rack again ..there just to poor a system for me for all the cost involved in fixing them ...thats cause i made my own system thats so much better its still amazes me ....
 
If the carburetor's have not been fooled with before you. Cleaning, new needle's, new or cleaned up seat's, float bowel gasket's, pulling & cleaning the idle jet's, may just solve your problem's. :yes: If not, then all the rest of the old rubber may need to be replaced to put them right. :rant:
 
All I did with mine was clean the jets and they did just fine. No kit no gaskets . Spray carb cleaner through passages and clean the jets and needle valves.
 
Do i really need to separate the plenum halves and each carb to properly clean or can i leave them together and just go in and clean jets ?
 
you can take the bowls off and the tops and slides off ...and do a lot of carb cleaning ...always do just one at a time ..no parts get mixed up ...use tin foil as cleaner for carb body for slide hole ...use tin foil to clean cap and slide ..i use cap and slide as a way to clean where they fit in a up and down and turning motion the loosen stuff ...you will feel with hands when things get rather slick and free moving...clean needle also ...then reassemble slide turn rack over take bowl off so you can clean there by taking float off ...be careful the pin can be stuck ...dont break tower for float and the float seat and all can come out and checked for operation and clean up ...jets can removed and cleaned and so on ...then put ack together move to next carb and repeat

i have a baby snot sucker i use as my favorite carb tool ..it blows and suck things and is all hand operated and can flush with fuid too ...great carb tool for me .....
 

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