My build (another one)

[ianstaley]

Just checked no P/N maybe inside but need to open them to find out. Catch 22.

 

[Denver]

Could these be a set of stock caps drilled out & tapped for air by P O who figured no need to take caps off to change the oil, just refill through valve in cap with core out of valve? Never owned, or worked on a 1000, so just a guess. :headscratch:

 

[ianstaley]

Well I drained the fork out from the drain bolt at the bottom of the leg, the valve centre does come out, otherwise you get a vacuum. The biggest problem is getting to take out the plate that the valve is attached to. The fork tube is about 1/64th bigger than the plate the is fitted to the top of the fork stanchion.

 

[Denver]

Wonder if a piece of inner tube, around an E Z Out to protect threads & try to it remove would work??? :headscratch: As long as seals, bushings, & other wear parts are in good shape, a little air pressure will empty out tubes with drain plugs removed, & no reason to remove top caps & fight springs. :good: All you can do is guess why things were done if you don't talk to the P O that did it to see why. :salute:

 

[ianstaley]

So I made so pictures of the new to me frame that has been strengthened, blasted and powder coated. Just so you all know this is moving forwards, if not at break neck speeds it is moving.

So enjoy the pictures.....

Fake tank innards

the heat shield

frame and sub frame.

and the re-chromed front fender...

The neck...

Main stand, don't know if I will use it yet...

and in amongst those is the battery box too.

Just for those who need this info, the colour is RAL1015 or Land Rover Cream.

 

[ianstaley]

So to bring all up to date on this a bit. Many know that I have also bought a single carb and I had an adapter made to fit the VW plenum I also bought. Now comes my dilemma I am now seriously thinking of going the Webber IDE route. I am not 100% sure yet but so close at 98%. Now back to the forks and the rest.

Forks, I have sourced a supplier for another set, this gives me the opportunity to solve my problem easily and have a spare set that I will spend time stripping and cleaning up.

This is a picture of the old fork oil from just one fork stanchion.

It looks disgusting and stinks real bad.

The wheels, so the front wheel is at the blasters and waiting on the rear wheel which I will be stripping out today, on Monday that will go to the blaster / powder coater and be dealt with, I have decided to go with a pale champaign colour for the wheels.

Over this weekend I will be cleaning and making a support for the Final Drive so I can paint it in 2 pack in RAL 1015 too.

I am also making a start on the plastic and beginning with a deep clean and prep for the paint. I will also be back over at the lock up garage and see if I can't get the swinging arm off and then I can release the engine from the old frame. I will have room to work on the engine then. I am hoping that before the end of the summer 90% should be done.
Every one have a good weekend... and stay safe if your on the roads.. :music: :yahoo:

 

[julimike54]

Looking good from here

 

[ianstaley]

So since I posted the last bit, I have been squirting release fluid into the rear brake calliper well 1 side any way. I read on one of the forums about a member making a tool to get his brake pistons out, so I looked up internal pipe wrench and lo and behold such a beast does exist, £10.00 got me a new tool. So tonight I gave it a go. Hey presto, real tight to start with, so kept turning and feeding the brake fluid hole and after tuning for 3-4 minutes decided to try and pull at the same time and low and behold the piston popped.

HOORAH as your Marines say, even Gunny would be proud....

With the tool inserted and turning.

and the tool and piston on my computer table.

Now for the other side..... :builder: :rocks:

 

[Denver]

Cool tool :music:

 

[Ansimp]

The right tool makes a hard job easy :clapping:

 

[ianstaley]

I had tried to get one side out by heating and hammering with a drift, I had no intention of reusing the pistons anyway, I mullerd that piston so hard I bent the external rim (no damage to the calliper) didn't move it.

Last night I thought that the smaller side was completely screwed, put the tool in and it turned straight away, didn't need to hit it either, as luck would have it I had a large spanner, open one end ring on the other that fitted, that spanner is about 13" long and proved enough of a lever with resorting to hammering.

I can't recommend this tool enough to all GL owners, in fact any bike or car owner. I just think back over the years on how many calliper I have thrown away that in all probability could have been saved but application of one of these tools.

I just checked this out by typing internal pipe wrench in Google and I saw this from home depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Internal ... /204218626 at $11.57c I don't think the quality will be up to much.

I bought this one from Amazon at $18.99 plus shipping, for the 1" worth every penny, no sweating, no pulled muscles, no missing with the hammer (you know what I mean), so going to buy a small set of these for future use on anything that has a hole in it that you need to take out (that sounds bad, but not meant that way). :hihihi:

 

[ianstaley]

So you have the state of the rear brake in the previous few pictures, what I didn't show you was the state the rear brake was in when I got it off the bike. so first a picture or two of what they looked like to start with.

Pretty grim....

Still in the previous post I showed you some of the progress. When you do this it is important to NOT take out any metal, just polish what is there..
And it starts to look like this....

And

Inside is just about done

and

I need to get a brass wire wheel into the seal slot and just brush that up a bit, then I can get back to finishing the outside a bit more, seems like a waste I know but I want it flat to take the etching primer and the the two pack.

But now I have to fix my Compressor, last week the pressure switch started to leak, so I got a new one, unfortunately I manage to flatten the small diameter pipe that feeds from the pressure switch to the tank. I bought a new General pressure switch that fits ok, so bought some 1/4" copper brake pipe to make up the fitting. Wrong size pipe. Arrgh, so what I need is 6mm OD and I have 6.35 OD so the Rose doesn't fit the pipe neither does the nut. So now I need to source a bit of 6mm od pipe.

I have also got the Cush drive out of the rear wheel, and now need to take out the bearings. But I need to know does the retaining ring need to have a new seal, it comes out with the ring both front and back wheels, I will clean them off in the morning, I have new bearings, 6204 2RS and 6304 2RS for the rear wheel. but there isn't a retaining ring seal? Any help would be gratefully received. Well I am tired now it is 23:04 and my side is still painful, so going to take my fix of pain tablets and get some sleep. Good night all. :lazy:

 

[ianstaley]

So as a entry into the books of the continuing saga of the build.... Still don't have a good name for my bike, I think she needs one. Anyway back to the post.. I got a pair of forks tonight, the left one was a bit stiff the other seems fine, so decided to take that one that is stiff apart first. Oh dear this doesn't look good.

This is all the oil I got out of the leg

And the top Bolt

Das spring.... I think it has sprung it's last

And the deeper we go the bigger the problem. This is the one that matters, as this IS THE damper.

I can bang it in but I can only get it so far out without damaging it even further.

I need your wisdom on this one guy's if you tell me it is redeemable I will believe you. Personally I think it died a long time ago and needs burial.

 

[ianstaley]

So I have persevered, in taking the one that does move apart I managed to see which way everything goes together, after a bit of cleaning it has eventually come apart. So now the question is how to clean and get the stanchion de rusted, without damage to the outside which looks new. Not a mark on the outside. So will get back to this asap, need to talk to a blaster. In the last picture above it looks totally done and dusted, but in fact it is only surface crud and cleaned up quite well just using a cloth.

 

[slabghost]

ianstaley » Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:18 pm[/url]":3iu7m2wn]
So as a entry into the books of the continuing saga of the build.... Still don't have a good name for my bike, I think she needs one. Anyway back to the post.. I got a pair of forks tonight, the left one was a bit stiff the other seems fine, so decided to take that one that is stiff apart first. Oh dear this doesn't look good.

This is all the oil I got out of the leg

View attachment 2

And the top Bolt

View attachment 3

Das spring.... I think it has sprung it's last

View attachment 1

And the deeper we go the bigger the problem. This is the one that matters, as this IS THE damper.



I can bang it in but I can only get it so far out without damaging it even further.

I need your wisdom on this one guy's if you tell me it is redeemable I will believe you. Personally I think it died a long time ago and needs burial.

Could try soaking it in apple cider vinegar or mild muriatic acid bath. Should get most of the oxidation off.

 

[ianstaley]

Humm okay thanks, anything is worth a try, The springs are the easy bit "soda blast them" but it is the inside where most of the problems lye, so soaking for a few days might help quite a bit.

Thanks for that now to find the acid.

 

[slabghost]

Keep a close watch on the parts too long in the acid is worse than what you have now.

 

[dan filipi]

For the inside cleaning I'd try a baby bottle brush with hot soapy water.

 

[toytender01]

:hi: I use white vinager to remove most of the rust I encounter.

 

[ianstaley]

As usual lots of good advice. I sent the guy that sold me them that they are bad, he has offered others to replace them. So if he doesn't want these ones back I will do some experimentation on differing amounts of success.