New C5 Ignition fits GL1000, GL1100, GL1200, and GL1500

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I am working on a few updates for the installation guide. Feedback from "new" C5 users has been great, and we have several changes/improvements for the manual based on feedback (which we LOVE).

Coil mounting on GL1000 - install coil loosely in the frame until the air box is back in place. I know it's a tight fit, and allowing the intake horn to remain uncut requires a bit of "shuffle" as the airbox is put back in. It CAN be done!!

Coil leads...there are two coils inside the quad tower. Each hump is a coil. There is a center power lead and TWO triggers.
One trigger controls the left coil, one trigger controls the right coil (they ground/unground the coil to turn it on and off).

The coil that you connect to the BLACK trigger lead from the C5 module will control FRONT CYLINDERS
The coil that you connect to the WHITE trigger lead from the C5 module will control the REAR CYLINDERS

Remember, the black trigger must always control cylinder #1 (and on the Goldwing it also controls #2 but not on every bike).

The wiring diagram shows this but I am working to make a very simple photo which will be easier to understand.

I am also going to have a new section that discusses spark plug leads, resistor caps, spark plugs, and the specifics of the Goldwing.

Your patience is appreciated. My phone rings constantly...must be Spring time!
 

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:clapping: You're too kind, sir! :mrgreen:
So...the center terminal on the coils there can be "hot" all the time with no ill effects, since the coils are not being grounded with the key OFF, correct? Just to clarify....
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=145242#p145242:171ct8gk said:
AApple » Tue Apr 07, 2015 12:10 pm[/url]":171ct8gk]
:clapping: You're too kind, sir! :mrgreen:
So...the center terminal on the coils there can be "hot" all the time with no ill effects, since the coils are not being grounded with the key OFF, correct? Just to clarify....

Yes, I have been doing that for quite some time, and Power Arc just agreed it was the best method.

Since the coil is never grounded via the C5 module unless the encoder is spinning, there is no danger of the coil staying on.

I never was a believer in relays because that adds more parts. By connecting the coil center terminal directly to the main fuse or battery, and allowing the ignition to do what it was designed for, you no longer risk low voltage due to corrosion of kill switch or ignition switch. It was never recommended to run coil power through the ballast resistor anyway.

The ignition module can still use the original coil lead (black/white on most Honda) which should keep the emergency shutoff switch operational. Verify with a test light.

This week I am updating every manual we have to reflect this, and it will take about two weeks to change all the owners/install guide I have, but it's worth it.
 
I made a few pictures to explain how a person might use a VOES switch and toggle to use 3 of the 4 timing maps we offer. I also have a drawing on how to wire up the Greyhill rotary switch that many of us have used.

Also, I need pictures of a GL1200 coil install. I've gotten feedback from one customer but that's it so far. Once I decide how to mount them we'll go ahead and attempt to manufacture a set.

Thanks and ride safe!

-Paul
 

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147772#p147772:1mhxe1em said:
C5Performance » Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:25 pm[/url]":1mhxe1em]
I also have a drawing on how to wire up the Greyhill rotary switch that many of us have used.

-Paul
file.php

Gee, I don't remember my switch being that hard to wire... :shock: :smilie_happy:

Thanks again Paul!
 
I bought my C5 kit almost a year ago. I finally got my '76 on the road Sunday with the C5 installed.
I want to thank Paul for a great kit and for being very quick to answer my emails and questions.
The kit was VERY easy to install, even for a mediocre mechanic like me.
The bike had some serious carb problems at the time and would barely start at all.
Once I installed the C5, much to my amazement, it fired right up!
Even though the carbs caused it to run poorly, it did run!
Now it's on the road, and I have to say, That bike FLYS!
Thanks again, Paul.
 
just got home yesterday. been working away ( Adelaide, South Oz ) since the middle of Feb. opened up my second C5 kit and once again i am impressed with this product and the excellent packaging for shipping.
So, my 76 LTD is about to get a boost in the ignition area.. :clapping: :clapping: thanks Paul.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=148216#p148216:ra4ner34 said:
aussiegold » Fri May 08, 2015 4:27 am[/url]":ra4ner34]
just got home yesterday. been working away ( Adelaide, South Oz ) since the middle of Feb. opened up my second C5 kit and once again i am impressed with this product and the excellent packaging for shipping.
So, my 76 LTD is about to get a boost in the ignition area.. :clapping: :clapping: thanks Paul.
:good:
 
I appreciate all the kind words!

Today I need help from the smart guys...

1984 GL1200 Aspencade with C5 installed. According to wire diagrams one coil provides a pulse signal via the yellow/blue trigger. It appears to split off very close to the coil.

I used two wiring diagrams Dan sent me and combined into one. Highlighted to show the path of the tach signal.

Where is this wire and is the yel/blu color correct? We have several ignitions sold to GL1200 owners and one of them cannot find this lead. I don't have access to an Aspy.

Can anyone please help us? Where might this lead be located? If we connect the green tach output from the C5 to this wire the Honda tach should function as it always did.
 

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Looking at the diagram I would think that the electronic dash could need both or either as a signal for the tacho ( yellow/blue, yellow/green)
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=148607#p148607:1l3tb6z1 said:
Ansimp » Mon May 11, 2015 10:27 pm[/url]":1l3tb6z1]
Looking at the diagram I would think that the electronic dash could need both or either as a signal for the tacho ( yellow/blue, yellow/green)

Thanks for the call Tony. Now I've got to find a running Aspy and tear it apart (I mean borrow it for observation).

If we can get the tach to function with one pulse lead I'll calibrate using our software.

Oh what fun!!
 
After conversation last week with Aspy I'm interested in finding this control module (not even sure what it looks like).
I've got a feeling it would be in the fairing but that's just an educated guess and my customer does not want to tear into the bike.

Anyone restoring or parting out an Aspencade? We are trying to find out exactly where the coil pulse came from so we can connect our green tach lead.
The customer has not been successful in getting a tach reading yet.

Other than that life is great and I miss talking with you guys about bikes. Ride safe!!
 

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