Single Carb. Conversion, VW Plenum & Modding, the OEM Manifolds

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I will try to do some vids posted again, but i seem to always run into trouble.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98920#p98920:2t2w20fo said:
westgl » Mon Oct 07, 2013 4:11 pm[/url]":2t2w20fo]
That sounds Great Joe,

I would like to see those other grab rails you found that have a less of a bend to them.

My seals for my VW plenum came in Black, so you can get them in either Black or Orange.

Those seals are for 1 5/8" at the VW plenum and 1 3/8" VW runners. Would they still seal well on a 1 1/4" runner?

The runners are coming at the plenum at different angles; would you just bring them up to the rubber seal and use the flexibility of the seal to take care of different angles? Or are you going to try and bend the runners so they enter the plenum spigots?

If you are not bringing the runners into the spigots then you will have the 1 1/4" where the plenum goes into the spigot then the spigot diameter which is about 1 3/8" x 1" long and then the grab bar runner which would be about 1 1/8". Will this be a problem?

Brian
 
That is the plenum chokes job.

The Choke take the Plenum Outlet size down from 1.400" to the size wanted say 1.125" to 1.1782", then the transition is taken care of, Choke is approx. 3/4" Long, or flush with the end out the Plenum Spigot/Outlet.

Use a hose to go over the VW plenum Outlet, this can be Radiator hose, it is just a seal, and does not come in contact with any fuel, clamped to the VW outlet.

A second hose 1- 1/4"ID x 1-1/2"OD, this is you mechanical seal, at the VW plenum.

Or another way to do it,

Is the VW plenum seals.

I transition piece would have to be found to provide the mechanical seal between the 1-1/4" OD tubing and the VW Plenum seal, I have tried to use gorilla tape, for one of my applications,

Gorilla tape, does NOT work, even though there was not a lot of heat, it will Not Work, also the new Grab Bar will provide More runner heat.

I think that there must be something at Napa, or a auto parts store that can make the transition.


[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98997#p98997:1d482j54 said:
canuckxxxx » Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:34 am[/url]":1d482j54]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98920#p98920:1d482j54 said:
westgl » Mon Oct 07, 2013 4:11 pm[/url]":1d482j54]
That sounds Great Joe,

I would like to see those other grab rails you found that have a less of a bend to them.

My seals for my VW plenum came in Black, so you can get them in either Black or Orange.

Those seals are for 1 5/8" at the VW plenum and 1 3/8" VW runners. Would they still seal well on a 1 1/4" runner?

The runners are coming at the plenum at different angles; would you just bring them up to the rubber seal and use the flexibility of the seal to take care of different angles? Or are you going to try and bend the runners so they enter the plenum spigots?

If you are not bringing the runners into the spigots then you will have the 1 1/4" where the plenum goes into the spigot then the spigot diameter which is about 1 3/8" x 1" long and then the grab bar runner which would be about 1 1/8". Will this be a problem?

Brian
 
well if its like you say then ...then some similar could be done ... iwas thinking it was 1 1/4 ID on type 4 manifold ... and yes I think the ID of the grab bars is perfect for the oldwing motor ...its beats buying an expensive done manifold of way to costly alternative to me :builder: :mrgreen:
 
My New Throttle Cable Hold Bracket, Throttle Pull is from the Front Right side of Engine.

This is simplified from my first one, and is more in line and provides a smoother pull than the first one did.


 
okay ill spill whats going on in middle so naybe I can get input

on hooch theres oil lines ---water lines and the top of the motor just underneath manifold .... and the top of the motor too ...

so in a caveman way I built a heat exchanger ... using metal clay ...sounds techy huh ....

well what I have done is incase the entire water pluming system an the expose oil system lines on 1200s and the entire top of the motor to the manifold I have right now with rubber hose runners an stock intake horns .....

the metal clay common name is tin foil :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: it is cram in every knock and cranny form motor to manifold and runners too ....

ive got most of it done ..will figure out way to encase it all and field input from others too as a way to finish it up

I expect this to work perfect ive ran the bike several times and it doing great the type 4 is not getting cold and once warm its flawless

I may be talking to big but I think its a done deal and will operate as good and the icing issue is over and done ... at the cost of 0$ so far

im insane right guys ... :music3: :roll: :shock: :mrgreen:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98212#p98212:147tfskb said:
82a » Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:10 pm[/url]":147tfskb]
pix on diff engine but used for a generator, so a steady rpm

file.php

Am I the only one who looks at this picture and thinks you could build an intake manifold like that and hang a motorcycle carb off the end. Maybe even one of the carbs from are OEM rack.

Brian
 
side draft has come up at least once (vanagon plenum) that i know of, haven't seen anyone go there yet

actually i did see one setup with a carb sticking out of the left side of the engine but forget the rest
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99602#p99602:27bkgp8y said:
canuckxxxx » Fri Oct 11, 2013 2:43 pm[/url]":27bkgp8y]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98212#p98212:27bkgp8y said:
82a » Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:10 pm[/url]":27bkgp8y]
pix on diff engine but used for a generator, so a steady rpm

file.php

Am I the only one who looks at this picture and thinks you could build an intake manifold like that and hang a motorcycle carb off the end. Maybe even one of the carbs from are OEM rack.

Brian
 
these folks sell the engine and parts https://saturnsurplus.com/engines/10kengnew.htm
Best of all, a VAST supply of replacement and repair parts is available at SURPLUS PRICES!

dunno the measurements or sizes but shows
- INTAKE MANIFOLD $13.50
- INTAKE PIPES $7.50
https://www.saturnsurplus.com/4a084.htm

they have other size engines stuff https://www.saturnsurplus.com/index.html

any more on this should prob go in another fresh (side draft options maybe) thread, this one is about:
Single Carb. Conversion, VW Plenum & Modding, the OEM Manifolds
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99634#p99634:ob8dnaxb said:
82a » Fri Oct 11, 2013 6:54 pm[/url]":eek:b8dnaxb]
these folks sell the engine and parts https://saturnsurplus.com/engines/10kengnew.htm
Best of all, a VAST supply of replacement and repair parts is available at SURPLUS PRICES!

dunno the measurements or sizes but shows
- INTAKE MANIFOLD $13.50
- INTAKE PIPES $7.50
https://www.saturnsurplus.com/4a084.htm

they have other size engines stuff https://www.saturnsurplus.com/index.html

any more on this should prob go in another fresh (side draft options maybe) thread, this one is about:
Single Carb. Conversion, VW Plenum & Modding, the OEM Manifolds

That is festinating stuff. I was reading some of posts for the guy with the air boat using the 4A084 engine. Apparently they are 84 cubic inch displacement and some aircraft guys run a 30mm Mikuni carb. on them. So the intake manifold must be some reasonable size for our 1100cc engines. For $13.50 it would tempting to order a manifold just to see. Maybe get the runners too because for our bikes the manifold would have to mounted far forward to have room for a carb.

Brian
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98209#p98209:1pzvthvy said:
canuckxxxx » Wed Oct 02, 2013 3:58 am[/url]":1pzvthvy]
If you use 1.25" schedule 80 aluminum pipe it is 1.25" ID, 1.67" OD. I would suggest machining the .5" or so of the end down to 1.375-1.4" so it will go into the VW spigot. The outside diameter of the spigot is about 1.625" so a rubber coupler with hose clamps would fit nicely if you could find one with a 1 5/8" ID. Or you might be able to solder the tube into the VW manifold. I wonder if there is an epoxy that is fuel proof.

The other end of the tube could be machined to the shape of the OEM carbs where they fit into the rubber coupler. With the grooves etc.

Brian


yes there is and it is in the states get it from caswel here https://www.caswellplating.com/restorati ... ealer.html
 
after reading I think all of the treads for single carb I think I know how to go about almost all of it. However I can't quite picture the construction of the chokes. Could someone try to explain them even more simple than has been stated before. I get why they are important I just can't get my head around the actual construction and install and how to make them so they stay where you put them. I'm sure it is simpler than my mind is seeing it. thank you all for making this a real possible solution to the always not quite right 4 carb setup.
Thanks dave
 

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