The "Turd" is down and out(head gaskets & other stuff)

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=166082#p166082:pzzi9qy2 said:
AApple » Sun Jan 10, 2016 8:09 pm[/url]":pzzi9qy2]
After all of this fancy schmacy polishing I'm doing, ya'll know the FIRST time I ride this turd after getting it back together, it's gunna RAIN.... :yes: :yes: :doh: :hihihi:

:crying: :rtfm: :Doh2:

Well...not rain, actually, but super heavy FOG....which is just as bad. Only about 1/8 mile or less visibility. I dint care...I rode the Turd today anywho. :moped: Runs like a new bike! Clutch is still slipping at higher RPMS under heavy throttle. Dammit. And I got some pretty good chatter from the front brakes. I made it to werk with no problems at all. Idle is perfect, fires right up, no overheating or leaks. Rides nice and smooth, no death wobble anymore, no chain rattle at idle, just doo-doo on everything from the fog/moisture. Oh well...it was nice while it lasted. :smilie_happy:
I did forget to put any air in the front forks.... :blush:
Fog finally burned off aboot 10am, and the afternoon weather is s'posed to be up in the mid-high 70's. :yes:
 
Clutch has never slipped before, except in really cold weather while wearing my super thick gloves. My frozen fingers, and the thick gloves will sometimes keep me from being able to fully release the lever quickly. Other that that, it's never slipped at all....and ya'll know I ride the pee outta this thing. :yes:
Castrol 4 stroke motorcycle oil was used. I'm quite certain that the work done on it this time hasn't improved the HP or torque enough to start smoking the clutch. What I'm hoping is that it has just sat so long that the clutches just need to be worked a little bit to get them in grab mode. I'm gunna back the clutch adjustment off a little more before the ride home this evening, just to be sure it's not a "cable too tight" situation. Until I figure it out, I'm not gunna really romp on it too hard. :roll: you believe that, don't ya? lol
 
Might need to adjust the clutch at the cover. I did mine 5 years ago but can't recall just how. It's in the manual though.
 
Yep,
Adjust at the case,
it's a cinch on the 1100.
Probably has no free play at the end of lever's release.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=168912#p168912:1rjnrtmv said:
mcgovern61 » Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:24 pm[/url]":1rjnrtmv]
When you had your routing issue with the tach cable, did you route the clutch cable the same as before?

:headscratch: "H :sensored: L I don't know.....they had Yodas and s :sensored: t on em..."
:smilie_happy:
(10 points for whomever gets that one...) :hihihi:

Not sure on the cable routing without looking. I'm pretty sure the cable itself is not binding, but I'll check to see anyway. I'll back the adjustment off a bit before I head home, and see how that works. :thanks:
 
:thanks: guys.
So I backed off on the clutch adjustment a little more, and even installed a spring between the cable bracket and the lever, just to be sure the thing is releasing fully. Still getting a slip under heavy throttle. Dang thing basically just breaks loose instantly....I get out of it quickly, so as to not do any more damage. If I'm just riding "normally"(for me), it's fine. Just on heavy throttle does it slip, and even then only at higher mph. This merning I wuz tinkin...when I bought the erl, I thought I got 4 quarts of 10/40w bike erl, but as I was putting it in, I noticed TWO of the quarts were 10/50w. I had already poured in those, unfortunately. Could this thicker oil cause the slippage? I've never had a clutch issue before on this thing, which is why I dint bother checking it while it was out. :doh:
I can change the erl easily enough....I might just go ahead and do it before I go home this evenin.
 
Oil weight has been known to cause clutch issues. Mixed weights is never recommended except by me suggesting ATF be added occasionally.
 
Yeah 50 is pretty thick but I don't think that's the problem because Honda manual says above freezing temps 20/40 or 20/50 is ok. All temps- 10/40.
Clymer says above 59 degrees use straight 30, or all temps- 10/40.
The only problem I've had using 20/50 is the starter clutch didn't want to engage very often mostly when cold.
Could try replacing a 1/2 quart with atf?
 
I almost made a similar mistake with my oil change on the Rats Nest last week. I don't think the weight of the oil is a problem but the additives. I bought a Valvoline 10w30 which right before I put it in the bike I decided to ring their tech hotline and found out that it had friction modifiers and was unsuitable for wet clutches ( causes slipping) :head bang:
 
10W/50 shouldn't cause any issue other than harderer/slower starts in cold winter type conditions.

I'd scrutinize the empties labels just to be sure it didn't contain friction modifiers for supposed improved fuel economy.


If it does, drain about 1/2 of the oil out and refill it back to full with ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, or Seafoam.


Then I would put it up on the C/S and get up to temp and maybe put it in gear and use the clutch some.

When it gets up to operating temp immediately drain the oil, then change with proper oil and a new oil filter.
 
Always better to be safe than sorry. Looks like I've learned even more stuff today!
 
Well...it's been a few days, so I'm gunna give an update.
Clutch slippage did improve with the erl change, but it does still slip slightly if I goose it hard and quick. Normal riding it is fine. Heck...I wonder if it's actually the rear tire breaking loose, what with all this new-found power I have? :smilie_happy:
Otherwise, the Turd is doing good. Raining here all this week, so no riding for me...I ain't cleaning all that crap just because I wanted to get wet. :nea:

On a happy note, the new Shinkos are still holding air, and.....these do NOT give me that weebly/wobbly feeling, as the last two rear ones did! :clapping: :yahoo:
So far, no leakys! I did have a small coolant leak from the weep hole that just appeared suddenly, right after changing the erl....in fact, WHILE I was changin the erl. Weird. Only one or two small drips on the ground at the shop, and one when I got home. I wiped it off, and since then, nothin....dry as a bone.
Still starts instantly, idles purrrrfectly @ 1000rpm hot or cold. Before, it would idle up to 2500rpm once at operating temp, but now, it stays at the same rpm every time. So that's a gold(wing) star!
The brakes, however, are another story. Looks like Imma gunna need to get some rotors for the front. Don't know it these were just too thin to turn properly, or if I screwed one or both up, but it shudders pretty hard on normal stops. Light braking, or hard braking, it's ok. Rear brake doesn't have this problem....just the front. And of course, they ALL still skweek! :sensored: :rant: Guess I need to try some different pads next time. I have all of the shims and stuff installed, and I've even tried using some brake goop, but so far, nothing has alleviated the dang skweels. Oh well....
:whistling:
 
Can't imagine your turning caused the shudder, getting them flat like you did should have prevented that. Could air in the line cause it, like a pressure/release thing going on?
Just thinkin.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=169507#p169507:388mb6qe said:
slabghost » Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:19 pm[/url]":388mb6qe]
Any chance the brake pads are glazed?

Not unless they come from the factory with a glaze on them.... :smilie_happy: ALL pads are new, front and rear.
Doubt it's an air thing, either....I'm guessing they are either just too thin after turning, or I got one or both out of true. One of them was right on the "Min thickness" measurement.... :blush: I'll just hafta run it like this until I can source some good/better ones. At least it's just the front...those are easy enough to change!
 

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