Tips on installing a fuel pump?

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Mon Mar 14, 2016 6:19 am[/url]":2unzjo4f]
A close up pic of the 1000 cam I have to show where the pump contacted....
This cam does have the R2 marking.

I was running an 1100 pump on it so maybe that's why it rode so close to the edge?

From your picture Dan maybe you need Chillidawg's longer cam to drive a manuel pump if you had one.

 

[dan filipi]

1000 R2 top, 1100 bottom.
Easy to see the pump arm rides fully on the cam on the 1100 as opposed to on the 1000 right on the edge. Maybe Honda realized a potential problem and lengthened it.

 

[chilidawg]

Yeah but, half way through a year model and then didn't even consider it a revision?

I just spun (by hand) both forward journals through my vernier and both came out to around 1.060" to 1.065".

No discernible real difference even with the marks that are on it.

I honestly believe that I messed up somehow with this.

Morals being:- If you can't turn the camwheel by hand, don't use the camshaft. DO NOT fabricate a 2x4 with lag bolts to force it.

& Do not worry that your fuel pump rides on the edge of the cam, it will still work!!

 

[dan filipi]

I just find it amazing as many times as I've looked at these cams I never noticed that difference.
Live and learn I guess.

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Mon Mar 14, 2016 7:37 am[/url]":2ua3arst]
Live and learn I guess.

+1 :good:

 

[Terry]

Now this is educational, unfortunately it's at someone else's expense figuratively and literally.

 

[slabghost]

Terry » Sun Mar 13, 2016 7:51 pm[/url]":3tax2jpt]
Now this is educational, unfortunately it's at someone else's expense figuratively and literally.

That is precisely why this forum is so helpful. Folks here not only post the good and bad but the results of trying. The success and failures. Learning from each others mistakes as well as our own makes all of us better decision makers.

 

[chilidawg]

Alright so here's my plan! Upshot of all this.

I'm gonna put the original R1 Cam back on, and not even worry a little bit about the fuel pump running on the edge of the offset cam!

I know that, that baby ran good, so as long as that bad boy don't need help from a 2x4 to get the belt on, (like it did last time,) it's all good.

Let's see. It's all an experiment.....

 

[joedrum]

opcorn:

 

[chilidawg]

Update:

R1 cam is back in, new belts in place, used another cam carrier that I had around.

Everything turns well, first compression test was a little worrying (40 & 70 psi), but then I remembered I'd used another cam carrier that I had around.

So I adjusted the tappets and now all cylinders are north of 100psi. That's running a cold engine on the starter motor!

Looks right now like I most likely dodged a bullet.

But now I'm back to square one, trying to get the fuel pump to seat on this cam with the short offset pump drive.

Even with the offset at it's lowest point in relation to the pump arm, it still don't want to ride up the ramp and sit.

I'll keep trying though, I just keep tearing up insulator gaskets and those things take a week to get here.

 

[ekvh]

I'm fairly sure the shorter cams didn't have the insulator gasket, just a paper one. Would that help?

 

[Terry]

Chilidawg:
Did ya her all back together and motivating yet?

 

[chilidawg]

Yeah I did, thanks to my friend Karl and his second pair of hands, (that can wrench).

We loosened the 12mm pump bolts, got it on then rotated it to the right and he held it in place while I re-tightened the bolts, then rotated it back upright and bolted it down.

Cool huh, so now my suspension won't pump up, pretty sure the air switches are leaking.

Got a 27K mile set on the way to replace with, been down this road before, it'll get done.

Thanks.

 

[Terry]

chilidawg » 16 minutes ago[/url]":2r6ltbtv]
Yeah I did, thanks to my friend Karl and his second pair of hands, (that can wrench).

We loosened the 12mm pump bolts, got it on then rotated it to the right and he held it in place while I re-tightened the bolts, then rotated it back upright and bolted it down.

Cool huh, so now my suspension won't pump up, pretty sure the air switches are leaking.

Got a 27K mile set on the way to replace with, been down this road before, it'll get done.

Thanks.

Well thats good, tough deal done.
A second set of skilled hands or eyes is often hard to beat.

 

[chilidawg]

Oh I'm sorry guys I forgot to mention the main thing that this thread turned into! :?

The motor runs great, just as well as it did before. I really did dodge that bullet. k: :yahoo:

 

[Ansimp]

Congratulations :good:

 

[joedrum]

Hope its all done and. Working good

 

[chilidawg]

Well, the new(-ish) air switches didn't work, no difference.

So either the front and rear suspension have both sprung large leaks all at the same time, or the compressor is not putting out.

So now I'm thinking I've got 2 ways to go here, I've got a another compressor on the way, and I am now in possession of the parts to change it back to the Interstate method. I want to try the compressor first.

If both fail then I know the first thing happened and I need new shocks and forks, which sucks, 'cos I just sold great sets of both.

 

[chilidawg]

Well my ass just got lucky again.

The new compressor works like a charm, it's even much quieter than the old one.

I tested the old one with a tire pump connected to the drier connection and every time I let go of the selector button it let air out of the intake port.

I guess the little reed valve in there had given out, how was I supposed to know? It'd sounded like crap for years, just gotten used to it I suppose!

Guys this is all coming together, my main objective was to get 2 bikes together for May 15th, that's when my buddy gets here and we ride from here to Nashville on the NTP and back.

And you know what? It looks like it might actually work.

 

[dan filipi]

Sounds good chili!