Vacuum advance and pluse generator (VACUUM ADVANCE REBUILD)

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gosh beav im glad you have contributed this thread for us ...what a short cut for me ....me like you most of the time i have to stuggle to do something as im always driving blind in some direction to do something ....but not on this issue ...just great work beaver....this is one of the best threads ive ever seen on the 1100 ignition or any other issue ....youve got my total respect :mrgreen:
 
Yes, this will come in very handy for me!

I noticed when running the 1000 cam in the left side with it's own points and advance which separates it from the rear ignition all together
it ran better.
You could also hear when the advance dropped out. Rev it and as it's coming back to idle, rpm's would hover around 1500 for a second then drop to idle. It would do that every time.
Doesn't do that with the 1100 ignition which seems to drop out advance sometimes and other not.
Sure making it difficult to pinpoint whether it's running rich or lean the way it's running on the electric fuel pump.
 
dan filipi":104vfn1i said:
Yes, this will come in very handy for me!

I noticed when running the 1000 cam in the left side with it's own points and advance which separates it from the rear ignition all together
it ran better.
You could also hear when the advance dropped out. Rev it and as it's coming back to idle, rpm's would hover around 1500 for a second then drop to idle. It would do that every time.
Doesn't do that with the 1100 ignition which seems to drop out advance sometimes and other not.
Sure making it difficult to pinpoint whether it's running rich or lean the way it's running on the electric fuel pump.
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Thanks Dan, I am going to test both of them today, my girl is home from college [Tulsa] and I am trying not to spend too much time from her, today I will check both my advance's out, I'm going with the aftermarket one I think because it has a brand new diaphragm..I hope my jibberish makes sense... :grin:
 
joedrum":g9l85wi3 said:
gosh beav im glad you have contributed this thread for us ...what a short cut for me ....me like you most of the time i have to stuggle to do something as im always driving blind in some direction to do something ....but not on this issue ...just great work beaver....this is one of the best threads ive ever seen on the 1100 ignition or any other issue ....youve got my total respect :mrgreen:
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I needed to make up for my mistake earlier, :doh: This vacuum advance tricked me, because it bleeds off or down to the correct point, I bet most guy's see the needle on the gauge go down and they think the same thing [leak], 3.2 isn't that much vacuum, but its only a 4 cylinder motorcycle , the you tube video shows no vacuum loss at all,I think most guys are used to that..I didn't even know how to read a gauge before I started so it's been a learning experience, Hg's I said what the heck???? Now I know.. :music3: I have some more stuff, I'll post later on other subjects.. 2 out of three diaphragms I opened up had holes in them, the rubber is thin from years use, [30 years] they can only last for so long..Oh, you know where I made my pencil marks, the white baseplate will move if you move the arm alot times in and out, it rotates a little, I noticed it when playing with it, it kept moving to the left, the mark is still good and all but don't freak out if the white plate moves alittle.. I just put my thumb on the white plate and opened and closed the arm a few times and pushed the plate back slowly while moving the arm in and out to realign the pencil marks..Done.... :grin:
 
joedrum":vsdfsgeo said:
somwhat or stuck advance .....like beaver said could be rusted ...ithink he said his was :mrgreen:
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That bike is gonna move once you get that advance fixed I bet..Like your other bike does..
 
Just a word for those that may do this, I have a 81 interstate, everything fits fine, close but it fits fine, I have it on the bike now, but that's a 81, I have no idea if it will fit other models.[ It should] but I haven't tried them.. I just checked the clearance from the edge of the canister to the bottom of the tank it's about 3/8" or 1/4" just by looking with a mirror..It's funny because it fits just this side of the tank crimp almost like it was made for it..cool..I'm thinking most of the tanks are the same, but I have no idea on different models, something could be different..I just need to put this out there so guy's are aware of this....Hey don't they make vacuum advances for other bikes? :doh: I bet their costly..I don't think it has to be the brand name I mentioned or numbers if it looks the same it will work I'm sure..Lot's of them on ebay new, but a used one at a junk yard is probably cheaper..I was looking at the honda civic one, I'm sure there's someone lot's smarter than me that can figure out a much better method..I had to do something to fix my problem I was in a hole man.. :grin: Thank's for all the advise fella's..Later..
 
Ok, you know what they say, proof is in the pudding, or we are so close to the show me State I wanted to share my work with you, this will show the aftermarket vacuum advance I made at work :grin: I was turning the throttle and you can see it's reponse..I didn't know my shaft drive moved too, or maybe a ghost?? ha ha :smilie_happy: ha ha I am a happy dude.. :grin: :rocks: the bike sounds so much tighter now, cleaning up the mechanical advance really helped plus a vacuum that works and a base plate that moves ...I did the best I know how and proved it..and had a blast doing it.. :grin: oh hey it had a knock before but it's gone, I can't hear it anymore maybe the mechanical being cleaned up helped and it also helps to have your vacuum working :doh: true..Gone I can't hear that knocking sound anymore..I know I beat this subject to death I am finally finished I hope you enjoyed it..Littlebeaver :grin:
 
okay beav ive got a beef .....all this info and nothing on that rivet or whatever and how to get it loose to adjust the timing ....so ican turn the vacum canister that sould move the plate back and forth to retard or advance the timing ....every one of my 1100 motors have this wrenchless rivet or is it just a headless bolt :doh: :rant: :mrgreen:
 
joedrum":21e180u0 said:
okay beav ive got a beef .....all this info and nothing on that rivet or whatever and how to get it loose to adjust the timing ....so ican turn the vacum canister that sould move the plate back and forth to retard or advance the timing ....every one of my 1100 motors have this wrenchless rivet or is it just a headless bolt :doh: :rant: :mrgreen:
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Everything is as it was before Joe..If you wish to turn it go for it,, Tell us what it does..Turning it is the first I heard of it, Your talking about rotating it like you would a distribitor right? I'm setting it as it was before I took it off.. I'm passing the ball off to someone else now that might know about this,, I told you I wasn't an expert Joe.. I don't think you should get upset for stuff I didn't post..I thought I posted too much stuff...Live and learn..
 
dan filipi":l9c3yhor said:
I'm sure Joe was just kidding around with you, beav.

Yeah Joe, turn it and tell us what happens :yes:
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NO JOE.......DON'T TURN IT UNTIL I GET MY HELMUT ON!!!!!! :help: :help: :whip: :hihihi: :hihihi:
 
The only thing that turning the canister will do is tighten the threads on the arm or you can loosen them too..Righty tighty, lefty loosey, maybe you can fine tune it that way.. Joe do your homework man, tell us about it.. :grin: we are all counting on you... :grin:
 
Turning the canister itself will likely only affect speed of advance or possibly increase the angle of advance at rest. Total advance is likely restricted by mechanical design. I haven't yet actually seen the mechanism but I will be into it soon since I've read this thread. Also I'm interested in how far full advance goes in degrees.
 
yea beaver i was only kidding....you made a great thread and that rivet is a headless bolt mandated to be non adjustable by some ignorant regulation ....iwil see if thing s acyualy adjust the timing ...im sure it will but there maybe some other resricktion going on well see :mrgreen: realy beav i had no issue just poking fun :mrgreen:
 
slabghost":wx83a29x said:
Turning the canister itself will likely only affect speed of advance or possibly increase the angle of advance at rest. Total advance is likely restricted by mechanical design. I haven't yet actually seen the mechanism but I will be into it soon since I've read this thread. Also I'm interested in how far full advance goes in degrees.
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:grin:
 
According to my manual it only goes in one way and is not adjustable. However with cam changes we should find a way to adjust it some. I'm thinking a slightly longer rod going to 1000 cams.
 
slabghost":1mcrmhmo said:
According to my manual it only goes in one way and is not adjustable. However with cam changes we should find a way to adjust it some. I'm thinking a slightly longer rod going to 1000 cams.
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you can probably wind out that rod a good 1/4" or so to make it longer before you lose the threads, the travel to the stopping point won't change at all by adjusting the arm...I'm not going to worry about it, I know I am getting advance now, before I was in a hole... :grin:
 
littlebeaver":28114lyc said:
slabghost":28114lyc said:
According to my manual it only goes in one way and is not adjustable. However with cam changes we should find a way to adjust it some. I'm thinking a slightly longer rod going to 1000 cams.
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you can probably wind out that rod a good 1/4" or so to make it longer before you lose the threads, the travel to the stopping point won't change at all by adjusting the arm...I'm not going to worry about it, I know I am getting advance now, before I was in a hole... :grin:
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So it's as I thought. There is a mechanical stop it rests on at both rest and full advance?
 

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