Single Carb Conversion: Adapt the stock plenum

Another thought is

A couple of Helicoil's in the two mounting holes for the carb. plate Mount to plenum.

A little more torque could be applied to get a good seal, between carb mounting plate and plenum, as the threads would be stronger.

I am just going through possible failure points.

The 8ea fasteners used, that mount the intake runners to the plenum will have to be sealed, as they will introduce Vacuum leaks.

I can see the screen piece that goes on each side of air box that holds the carbs as being very useful .. how ...im still thinking....for sure with longer screws it could be used to mount plate to close in air box maybe and many other possibilities

Oh OK.

I removed my screw, but there may be some benefits, other than flame reduction.

I have a big box full of parts i need to go back through it.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97407#p97407:1crs6oj6 said:

joedrum » Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:54 am[/url]":1crs6oj6]
I can see the screen piece that goes on each side of air box that holds the carbs as being very useful .. how ...im still thinking....for sure with longer screws it could be used to mount plate to close in air box maybe and many other possibilities

Click to expand...

That screen may help atomization?
I'm thinking it would.

it for sure can do that

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97402#p97402:lyoc7gex said:

westgl » Tue Sep 24, 2013 11:20 am[/url]":lyoc7gex]
Water may be the only real good way to heat that plenum. It is the recommended way of plenum heating that Tom recommends.

Click to expand...

On my old '69 Ford, it had a two barrel carb and to operate the automatic choke, it had a waterline pass along side of it sitting in a saddle. Maybe that type of arrangement will work for water?

Here is a pic of one. The auto choke is on the left and you can also see the saddle for the water hose.

I will try it with the screen in, and No plate inside the plenum to reduce volume by raising the plenum floor this round.

west give me a pic of the side shot of runners attach to air box

I tend to agree with who was concerned about the volume of air in that large plenum. (Although it would be a very different story if a supercharger was being considered). Rather than destroy my original carb-rack, Im using a stainless steel 2-1/4" BOV (turbo blow-off-valve) that I got for $16-delivered from evilbay. Yes it's a turbo valve, but the flange mount is perfectly sized for the 34-pict carb that I purchased! I made sure to order a BOV with a flange-tube diameter that is "larger" than the roughly 1-5/8" carburetor port to help ensure there's room for decent fuel atomizing. Im also installing a 3/8" aluminum carb-spacer to help improve fuel atomizing further while slightly raising my engines low end torque yet again. I will also be inserting a small fuel nipple at the lowest point of the plenum-(BOV), with a hose that will go to another 90-degree nipple which I will install somewhere on the surface of the fuel gauge sending unit; this will act as a fuel return to ensure there's no fuel build-up inside the plenum given it's limited space. The negative pressure inside the fuel tank should keep the plenum free from any fuel build-up; while the vented gas-cap simply compensates by working more/and or less, according to outdoor/engine temperatures. And don't worry, Im sure "Not" going to put a drill to a fuel tank!!! After buying some J&B weld which "WILL" permanently bond to the PVC runner's "and" the stainless BOV, without having to ever play- "patch-up games" with blue-RTV. I will have have spent under $50 for my intake; and that includes a can of high-temp aluminum paint. And yes I'll post some pics as this happens within the next 7 to 10 days. CC
(it's going slowly; but the white-vinegar is eating away at my fuel tank's surface rust)

The V shaped false floor in the plenum was to improve air flow to the runners. I don't see any need to make a perfect seal as the minimal amount of turbulence could be beneficial. I would like to know how that effects the icing as there is separation between the plenum and fuel. I know we don't have a lot of power available but how about a diesel glow plug or 2 tapped into the plenum and controlled when required to combat icing??

hmmmmm.....tony that's an idea not heard yet to consider .....well im really going off the deep end ...hmmmm..ill have to drive a little deeper first before I post ....I shouldn't be left unmonitored :cool!:

I just got back from picking up some materials

I should have just about every thing i need.

6061T6 alum.
$3.00/Lb., 6# total, $18.00 No Sales Tax in Oregon so $18.00 out the door.

I pickup some Ultra Black Siliy for sealing.

also pick up some new fasteners.

and some Brass tubing

and some Higher Temp & strength Solder

Hey Joe what are you looking for?

I dont have the new Rev.#2 runners done yet.

I will start working on them tomorrow.

It is far just to get material.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97416#p97416:1wk0l6ld said:

joedrum » Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:11 am[/url]":1wk0l6ld]
west give me a pic of the side shot of runners attach to air box

Click to expand...

okay this is what im going to do ...after cleaning up things after striping's crabs plenum and all ...it came to me that just about everything I would want was was there for my joedrum perfect cave tech manifold ...that never been built ...

the screens will be put in plenum as last atomizer before entry to runners

from there the stock carb body will be hooked up ...they will be mostly milled down to runners and most of the carb body will be gone

there will be varies hole plugging to do ...but it will mostly like stock carb body flows inside ... and of corse the end will fit in intake runner as normal

heres the kicker carb tricker ...right behind the atomizing screen the choke butterfly will be left intact ...make it a tuneable air flow regulator to control the speed of the air just like a bottom of any carb ....

then its strait shot to the piston of all equal length ..

all four choke are linked together with linkage so all four cold adjust the same ....this will allow me to adjust air speed the carb gets

everything bolts right up as it is ....except for some epoxy of plugging costless ...

:builder: :mrgreen:

I think that sounds like a good plan, Joe.

What carb do you think you will be running?

Since the other one mysteriously vanished.

I am anxious to see you manifold, joe

Mine will look plane, at least yous will look like something cool

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97433#p97433:1g43yrzl said:

joedrum » Tue Sep 24, 2013 3:43 pm[/url]":1g43yrzl]
okay this is what im going to do ...after cleaning up things after striping's crabs plenum and all ...it came to me that just about everything I would want was was there for my joedrum perfect cave tech manifold ...that never been built ...

the screens will be put in plenum as last atomizer before entry to runners

from there the stock carb body will be hooked up ...they will be mostly milled down to runners and most of the carb body will be gone

there will be varies hole plugging to do ...but it will mostly like stock carb body flows inside ... and of corse the end will fit in intake runner as normal

heres the kicker carb tricker ...right behind the atomizing screen the choke butterfly will be left intact ...make it a tuneable air flow regulator to control the speed of the air just like a bottom of any carb ....

then its strait shot to the piston of all equal length ..

all four choke are linked together with linkage so all four cold adjust the same ....this will allow me to adjust air speed the carb gets

everything bolts right up as it is ....except for some epoxy of plugging costless ...

:builder: :mrgreen:

Click to expand...

That may be ideal, Joe.
Will be intresting to watch this come together.

Looking down the stock carb throat, it's already a smaller diameter than the runners. Wondering if those choke plates are even needed to balance them.

The runners would already be the same length so it seems to me keeping the choke plates in it just adding another variable.
Sort of what we're trying to get away from here, balancing/syncing but what do I know. This may prove to be the best all around setup.

I am looking forward to seeing joe's manifold

Mine will look very plane, but Joes should look cool!! and more interesting.

Joe,

The OEM carbs are defiantly NOT a Cod Catcher, as previously thought.

Especially, if they can live on, and provide new life in a different format, a single carb one. :mrgreen:

The tubing i bought today is 1-5/8" OD x 1-3/8" ID, ID is actually 1.380ID so .005 over 1-3/8"id, big deal, that difference wont be felt.

I have some clamps from Napa that fit the OEM manifolds, I think they clamp better, than stock.

I looked at the rubber on the OEM manifold after they were clamped, I noticed that the oem clamps for the oem manifolds do Not clamp in a circle and distort while clamping.

I think i will get a better seal if i use a better clamp.

When clamped the rubber on the manifold has a almond shape, instead of round.

The clamps i have are narrow like the oem clamps, but are SS, and have more adjustment, to close further, so they should provide a decent seal.

Tomorrow, with any luck, the fun begins.

I will start cutting material to size.

Then start marking, and measuring, for holes

I have some high temp solder 1100 degrees melting point, more than what I need, will not melt, even if hot coolant was heating the plenum floor, & 20,000 psi tensile strength, so it should hold up well.

I have asked my self, should I seal the two Plenum halves together with the solder.

How many tries, will i need, till i get it right?

Would i need to disassemble it? a torch could get it apart, the solder would be just a seal.

The Ultra Black should provide all the seal i need.

I have used Ultra black many times, I have headers on my 67 chevy Truck, No header gasket, header manufacturer says use Ultra Black Silly, for seal.

The 34PICT3

An excellent choice for a single barrel carb. i have two of them.

I was going to run them on my GL1100 last year but the whole move to another house through me off track.

I was going to flip the oem manifolds around so the rubber faced out, instead of in, then bend a "U" shaped tube to go between the two cylinders, and have the carb sit on the top of the apex of that "U" the carb would be positioned more over the valve cover. it should have still allowed me to change spark plugs, but long life plugs are available.

The single 34PICT3 run great on the GL1200 per Sergey and Blueridgerunner they are both running them and say they have plenty of power.

As Jungo is about to find out.

When I was running around on just the 32mm primary, it seems fine power wise, good cruise-able power, & I was using my 1-1/4" ID Hose, I am hoping for more power out of 1-3/8" ID tubes at all four corners, and No hose collapsing, and blockages, should be better all the way around.

But the 34PICT3 has a larger Primary, than the 32DFT, 32mm so the 34PICT3 should provide some decent power.

Also another benefit to the 34PICT3, is it has a smaller overall Carb body, that is a plus, this means you can keep the elec choke,

If you have NOT seen the video of sergey, starting his GL1200 w/ 34PICT3, it is NICE!!

He just advances the throttle about a quarter turn, this activates the elect. choke like a car then he hits the starter, starts and runs at a fast idle like a carburated car would, very nice.

They look like they are easy to tune for the GL1200, and to work on, you can get your hands in there easy, two adjustment screws, 2-1/2" turns out, your done.