Single Carb Conversion: Adapt the stock plenum

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Well I've pulled the single carb and opened it up.
Checked passages etc. It looks pretty good. Real clean.
I'm going to hold of right here doing anything further until these trials come together and we get a ride report from Jungo.

I'll be reading the posts and offering input when I can.

I'm sold on the simplicity and reliability of a single carb, just sitting back and soaking all this in before I make a move.
 
I have looked at this before as it has came up a few times on other sites using the carbs as manifolds , and sealing them, but never heard any ride reports.

In looking down the barrel of a carb. now and wow I have 4 that could be sacrificed at the drop of a hat.

Either that or they get dropped into the ocean.

turning them into something useful would be far better than four paperweights.

They are all disassembled sitting in a box, in the corner in the dark.

I think I agree with Dan on this, I would gut all that you can out of the path of the throttle bores, and make the throttles as wide open as you can get them, pull out all the stops.

Since this would be a OEM 4 carb sacrifice, and No going back,

I would look at it that way, remove the throttle plate & shaft and choke plate & shaft, inside of Carb top protrudes into the throttle bore, a Round file to it, to get it the same size, & shape as the throttle bore, to get max. Flow through it.

There are also a couple of brass tubes coming up from the bottom of the throttle bore, those would be gone, & plugged.

Anything that could impede the flow, should be removed.

Might as well go, full throttle on this, as that is what it is all about.

Joe if you put a 34PICT3 on it, you will have a elec choke on it all ready.
 
What about leaving the float bowl off.

Then cutting off all jet holders & float stands, on the bottom of the carb to flush up to where the float bowl used to mount up to.

You are going to fill all holes with epoxy anyway.

This would get rid of what hangs below the carb body.
 
The carbs would have to be Very clean.

And try to use a cleaner that does not leave a reside, so the epoxy will stick

maybe rough up all places to be epoxied for good adhesion.

Epoxy works great, when you have a Very clean, roughed up surface.

I have seen epoxy fall out when not prepped properly.

I may see how the high temp solder will do.

I may do this, too, as it seems like less machine work, and i still dont have a cork end for drill/mill and i am not going to do this all by hand.
 
OK, got ya

tops off too

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97459#p97459:1py8rhvy said:
joedrum » Tue Sep 24, 2013 6:55 pm[/url]":1py8rhvy]
its getting a more diet program than that west it will be mostly tube like just passed the choke butterflys

it wont look like it was ever a carb
 
If you could seal them really well, lots of holes, you could plumb the plenum and carb bowls with anti freeze to cure the icing issue. I am leery of that. You could use oil instead, but coolant would heat and transmit faster.
 
On the stock carbs, the choke shafts are not sealed or in bushings like the throttle shafts are. In the stock setting, there is full manifold vacuum at the throttle shafts, and none at the choke shafts. I fear you're gonna have pretty good vacuum leaks at the choke shafts. Also, won't the choke plates act like throttle plates, now that they're below the carb? This could bring back the issues of balance and sync.

I'm tempted to seal the plenum, gut and seal the carbs, then adapt the new carb to the plenum. It will look completely stock, with those shiny, empty carbs in place...

:builder: :headscratch: :read: :laptop: :head bang: :builder:
 
now steve do actually think im going to let them leak ......nope that aint happening ...and yes that the point that it will be like a throttle plate just passed the last atomizing point ...before strait shot to motor ....

is this wild idea far fetched ...and never done yes .....or not really ...ive done stuff like this and know it works ....

with linkage hooked up on them it will make even change to all four cylinders ...and on an individual bases it could be used to set equal runner vacuum and could be sync at horns and adjusted

so personally as stated this is manifold is going to introduce adjustability to the intake ...not instability

it seems for sure that it will widen the range of the carbs that can be use on this manifold ...

so is there a failure chance here ..always.... in just about everything I do ...but you know what im doing rather good in these far fetch gamble I always get into ....

will see ...im betting it will work good and willing to put all the work in to try ......

there are many possibilities that are even bigger than the basic set up ...one of the things going on is the ideal that it can be set up with linkage that will move with throttle ...making the manifold adjustable on demand .... sort of a caveman throttle position flow regulator for ultimate atomization ... ive got lots of absolutely new stuff never tried going on and feel the gamble is good :mrgreen:

ilike how eric put it .....is it going to be a 5 or 6 barrel carb setup asking if iwas going to to use a one barrel or 2 barrel carb on top ....essentially he nailed me .....why cause this concept though wild has tickled his mind too :hihihi: :builder: :mrgreen:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=97484#p97484:ifbse2ly said:
joedrum » Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:34 am[/url]":ifbse2ly]
ilike how eric put it .....is it going to be a 5 or 6 barrel carb setup asking if iwas going to to use a one barrel or 2 barrel carb on top ...
This is starting to sound like a carb auction.....

8 barrels I say........no wait........go for 10!!! :smilie_happy:
 
I like it Joe,

But my only fear is a Vacuum leak's at the worn out choke shafts, that may cause some Tuning/Running problems.

Those throttle & Choke shaft seals have never been replaced.

Dont those choke shafts, have a Felt washer seal on those also?

I wonder if a new seal can be put in that choke shaft bushings, i have not had one apart, that far.

But you can always check for leaks, when running, if any are found deal with it at that point.

I like your thought process, Joe.

Old rule of thumb for buying a used carb is,

if you have any side to side movement in any of the shafts, then the Carb is Worn out and will leak vacuum in that shaft that has movement.
 
flat out like steve said there the worst shafts in the stock carbs as there before carb and a leak wont hurt the stock set up ...so for sure I have to seal them good ... its not that hard to do ...im not even concerned about it now ... ive got one carb getting close to done on the milling ... this will take some time ...so its going to be a few days getting this ready ...

seems to be going good :builder: :mrgreen:
 
some pics of runner milling ...out of the carb body
image.php

choke butterfly that will tie into plenum carb box
image.php

that's a pic of my foot in the left corner
image.php

just my toes in this one

no where near done but you can see where it going :builder: :mrgreen:
 

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