Lostboy Steve
Well-known member
brianinpa":29w17u6z said:
It doesn't effect throttle position at all? Like 3/4 or wot.
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It doesn't effect throttle position at all? Like 3/4 or wot.
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Sorry! Throttle position not RPMs...
The idle jet affects idle. The main jet affects higher throttle openings. The cross-over between the two is controlled by the acceleration pump, so if you are having stumbling on running issues at mid-throttle, don't forget to take a look at the accel pump setting.
The idle jet affects idle. The main jet affects higher throttle openings. The cross-over between the two is controlled by the acceleration pump, so if you are having stumbling on running issues at mid-throttle, don't forget to take a look at the accel pump setting.
Lostboy Steve
Well-known member
brianinpa":1wojvw0c said:
lol it's all good! Just making sure I'm not losing my mind.
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I called the local vw guru who knows these carbs inside and out. He said to break loose the idle jet a bit to see if it idles. This is most likely the issue. I will test this when I get home from work today.
Jeez, I just looked back at my thread and see that after 9 pages of conversation, I'm still not running. I feel like I'm wasting your guys' valuable time.
I stepped away from the project for a bit to regroup and think this through. My plan this week is to pull the carb off the bike and give it another go through. With it being shelved for many years and gunked up to all hell, I'm hoping there's a port somewhere inside that may have a clog that just needs cleaned. I don't own a sonic cleaner so I'll keep spraying and hitting everything with high pressure air. I'll post some updated pics and info as I go back through this. Maybe you guys will catch something that I may have missed.
I stepped away from the project for a bit to regroup and think this through. My plan this week is to pull the carb off the bike and give it another go through. With it being shelved for many years and gunked up to all hell, I'm hoping there's a port somewhere inside that may have a clog that just needs cleaned. I don't own a sonic cleaner so I'll keep spraying and hitting everything with high pressure air. I'll post some updated pics and info as I go back through this. Maybe you guys will catch something that I may have missed.
Always take into account ..that there's some kind of mod that will make the carb work...to be quite honest ...I took a long time to get my carb to work ...along with improving manifold ...it finally took me making a new idle circuit for the carb ...before it got to where it ran good and had great mpg....hang in there ....
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Carbs can be a royal pain no matter what carb it is.
When I first got my goldwing the prior owner told me the carbs were "rebuilt"..
I come to find later that 3 of the air diaphragms were disintegrated and one was missing.
After replacing them and cleaning, pulled them again because #2 was running cold.
Found a passage completely clogged solid requiring re drilling of the passage to clear it.
On my single Solex, I just discovered a fuel passage to the accelerator pump had never been drilled at the factory. Drilled that and it runs much much better all around.
Hang in there.
Carbs require learning well how they operate to get working properly.
When I first got my goldwing the prior owner told me the carbs were "rebuilt"..
I come to find later that 3 of the air diaphragms were disintegrated and one was missing.
After replacing them and cleaning, pulled them again because #2 was running cold.
Found a passage completely clogged solid requiring re drilling of the passage to clear it.
On my single Solex, I just discovered a fuel passage to the accelerator pump had never been drilled at the factory. Drilled that and it runs much much better all around.
Hang in there.
Carbs require learning well how they operate to get working properly.
slabghost
Well-known member
Yep what they said and btw you aren't wasting anyones time asking questions. If I'm busy elsewhere I'm not online. If I'm online I'm looking for questions I can answer.
Well on my carb ...witch is a motorcraft 740 DFT weber copy progressive operating 2 barrel ...it was always rich at idle and just off idle ....got terrible mpg ...on my carb the idle circuit and the off idle circuit were connected ...thr mod was to separate the two circuits to indenpently and I could cut down the idle gas feed even more ....I cept trying to increase air at first to match the gas feed with just so so results ....
It's rather safe to say a single that won't idle good is most likely rich there ....and loads up and dies after a bit ...poor mpg is als a sign of to rich ....the mod was all mine that I made ...so no one but me has done it as far as I know ....
It's rather safe to say a single that won't idle good is most likely rich there ....and loads up and dies after a bit ...poor mpg is als a sign of to rich ....the mod was all mine that I made ...so no one but me has done it as far as I know ....
I spoke to a local vw expert about the issue and he told me the most common issue with the solex is the idle circuit being clogged. I'll hit it good with compressed air.
I'm also wondering if I need to go with a different sized idle jet. What are you guys with singles have for idle jets?
I'm also wondering if I need to go with a different sized idle jet. What are you guys with singles have for idle jets?
Sugs
Member
Here is a thread I found on ngwclub, for a 34 pict 3. Maybe it will help give you some ideas to sort yours?
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57862
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57862
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195992#p195992:306vlkv6 said:
In my bike logs are my final jet sizes: viewtopic.php?p=161661#p161661
Vastly different numbers from one carb to the other, nothing else changed engine or intake wise. A number of things within the carbs contribute to this.
I read this thread which made my head spin since it's getting close to bed time: https://www.vw-resource.com/jets.html
Since the distance to the heads is way shorter on a GW than a VW, lol, the VW calls for a richer idle jet for a center mounted carb. Since we have a shorter distance and the characteristics of my issue (engine dies when choke is released and idle drops below 2k), I'm wondering if it's the idle circuit that need addressed. Either the circuit has a clog or the jet sizing is off. I'd think that either too rich or too lean, the bike would run regardless, Just poorly. Maybe not. At this point, it is a lot easier to change the jet versus blowing out the port because there's no room to get my air tip inside the shelter without removing the entire carb.
I also read about sealing up the hole on the throttle plate, I have not done that. Do you think that is necessary?
Also note that this is an original 34 Pict 3 I'm working with, not an aftermarket Chinese repro. I don't know if that makes a difference either.
Since the distance to the heads is way shorter on a GW than a VW, lol, the VW calls for a richer idle jet for a center mounted carb. Since we have a shorter distance and the characteristics of my issue (engine dies when choke is released and idle drops below 2k), I'm wondering if it's the idle circuit that need addressed. Either the circuit has a clog or the jet sizing is off. I'd think that either too rich or too lean, the bike would run regardless, Just poorly. Maybe not. At this point, it is a lot easier to change the jet versus blowing out the port because there's no room to get my air tip inside the shelter without removing the entire carb.
I also read about sealing up the hole on the throttle plate, I have not done that. Do you think that is necessary?
Also note that this is an original 34 Pict 3 I'm working with, not an aftermarket Chinese repro. I don't know if that makes a difference either.
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- Location
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2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
I would pull the carb and check carefully passages are clear in the idle circuits before doing anything else. Test it.
After that I might close that hole in the throttle plate. Test it.
After that I might close that hole in the throttle plate. Test it.
Carb was pulled and all passages were/are clear. I went through them 3 times. One thing I read last night on a VW forum was the setting of the throttle plate at .003-.004" gap with the throttle closed.
My set screw was almost all the way out. This could have been something simple as not having the idle set at all and I just choked intake when the choke released.
I have not measured the throttle opening gap yet. I set it to where there's a small amount of light showing through.
I'll take some pics and post.
How far are your idle screws set against the choke lever? Should I even set the choke at this point until I get it idling?
My set screw was almost all the way out. This could have been something simple as not having the idle set at all and I just choked intake when the choke released.
I have not measured the throttle opening gap yet. I set it to where there's a small amount of light showing through.
I'll take some pics and post.
How far are your idle screws set against the choke lever? Should I even set the choke at this point until I get it idling?
Plate adjustment is a big factor really ....but they are talking VW motor ...I'd say the gap might need to be smaller on oldwing motor ...but that's just a guess ....opening is also controlled by idle screw on plate ...on my DFT two barrel carb both barrels plates are adjusted and effect idle running....like air control ... So stuff this is on the right track I'd say
Although with a hole in the throttle plate that some have soldered shut, I don't know how much benefit there is to setting the gap at a minimum. This is on the Solex at least. I'm not sure about the DFT.
More trial and error.
More trial and error.
Well I'd plug the hole and see what that does...
