danf
Well-known member
Thanks, there it is... Well, there's another option, thank you Dan, that's cool stuff right there..
OEM fan switch fix (and other options)
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slabghost
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You got a make, model , part number, or link to this wonderstat?dan filipi":2u80zu7i said:littlebeaver":2u80zu7i said:
This is what I'm talking about
You wire it inline with the fan switch and mount the temperature bulb to the radiator with the supplied kit and there ya go.
I put the main control in the right fairing face panel for easy adjustments.
I've got it set to turn the fan on just past 1/2 on the gauge. When it comes on it cycles on and off in range much like the stock switch.
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Dan, you should make a new thread and make it a sticky in the electrical or cooling parts section for easy access to this information in the future. This is the least expensive and easiest fix I've seen yet for the fan switch. (I know Joe....short of a manual toggle switch. :smilie_happy: )dan filipi":f9v823hk said:littlebeaver":f9v823hk said:
This is what I'm talking about
You wire it inline with the fan switch and mount the temperature bulb to the radiator with the supplied kit and there ya go.
I put the main control in the right fairing face panel for easy adjustments.
I've got it set to turn the fan on just past 1/2 on the gauge. When it comes on it cycles on and off in range much like the stock switch.
danf
Well-known member
No it's not...mine is..cost zero.. silly Willey, it's the cheapest new one you can buy that works perfectly for sure.... :smilie_happy:mcgovern61":34vhdvfr said:dan filipi":34vhdvfr said:littlebeaver":34vhdvfr said:
This is what I'm talking about
This is the least expensive and easiest fix I've seen yet for the fan switch. (I know Joe....short of a manual toggle switch. :smilie_happy: )
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Your right! Yours is the cheaper fix. :wave:littlebeaver":2crz91bn said:
mcgovern61":2kbg1lix said:
Yes, if ALL you have to do is to wipe/scrape the crud out of the groove around the end of the cap that goes inside the engine, that IS ABSOLUTELY THE CHEAPEST AND BEST ROUTE.
I claim second most cheap safe operating procedure at this "switch meeting"! BTW it is starting to seem like we are all taking some sort of a beating in this process with all the what-ifs that have dug themselves out of the wood!
All you have to do is FOLLOW THE STEPS BELOW:
-1. Remove the switch from the bike and unscrew the end sensor-cap as shown in Beaver's Photo illustration.
0. DO THE BEAVER'S FIXIT INSTRUCTIONS AND TEST TO SEE IF YOUR SWITCH WORKS. IF SO, GREAT. YOU ARE DONE. IF NOT TRY AGAIN TO MAKE DOUBLE AND TRIPLE DAMN SURE YOU AREN'T MISSING PART OF THE BEAVER'S PROCEDURE. IF YOU NEVER HAVE SUCCESS USING BEAVER'S TRICK, YOUR SWITCH IS BROKEN AND LIKELY IRREPAIRABLE but you can patch it to be on permanently. PROCEED TO STEP 1 BELOW.
1. take a nail with the correct diameter(equal to the size of the steel pin inside the switch.)
2. Cut about an 1/8" to 1/4" length rod from it. (to test, place the pin inside the empty shaft side going to the wiring plug electrodes and depress until you here the click. the length should be just enough to activate the click. this bridges the circuit and makes sends continuous electricity to the fan rather than waiting for the heat to expand the wax and push the pin enough in relation to the heat to connect the gap.)
3. Try to keep it as perfect a cylinder as possible(use a hammer and a hard surface and rock-in-the-middle-it if you need to straighten out your pin extension that you just cut from the nail. Make it fit, not to big not too little.
4. Put it inside the shaft that is closest to the water inside your engine. Then slide in the pin that went in there(all alone by himself when the switch was functional.)
5. Screw it back together and you have an "on-only" fan-switch(without cutting up your wiring harness till you can come across a replacement(rebuilt-Beaver/or otherwise new or aftermarket.)
6. Reinstall the switch plug'n'play!
It's similar to shoving a PILL inside her before sending your little brother/THE ORIGINAL PIN OR SHAFT IF YOU WILL into her slot after that. This has her acting hot all the time no matter what the heat really is inside her. She has to have a fan blowing then for damned sure, fellas.
If you are in a hot climate and have to run some ole stop'n'go, there is your cheapest-fastest-safest from now on CFS Honda GL1100 fan switch fix editted and contributed to by the BigDub! An no that isn't short for the big dumby. :thanks: for reading this sadly long post :fiddle:
This can be done as part of the Beaver Rebuild in the event that your switch won't rebuild. You can do it all without having a spare part on hand and without worrying about going without a fan or having to cut and splice your vintage wiring harness! Unless of course, your switch has found a way to drizzle boiling water out of the electrode connecting end. At which point you may truly be :head bang:
Now to get back to work. :whip: OUCH!
Disclaimer: i pity the time it takes to decipher all of the learning process that is this thread!
Oh and PS BEFORE YOU TRY ANYTHING DOWN REBUILD-IT-ROAD, DON'T FORGET TO CLEAN ALL THE SHE TIT OUT OF THE THREADS IN YOUR BLOCK OTHERWISE THE SWITCH, EVEN IF GOOD AND FUNCTIONAL, MAY NOT GET HOT ENOUGH TO FUNCTION PROPERLY.
danf
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Or Or someone could also just buy a new oem switch at the premium price.. :doh:
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:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:littlebeaver":3o63s14a said:
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mcgovern61":2rahq0pw said:
Ive made this topic a sticky in the Goldwing Tips and Tricks forum and I've edited the original topic to
"OEM fan switch fix (and other options)"
I think Dan has found the best option besides the OEM switch. I installed the Geo Metro switch which is supposed to kick on at 212F. Reading forums on this topic, 212F sounded a little low, however I have since looked in the shop manual and it says the oem switch is designed to close at 208-216F (median 212F) so maybe the fan is supposed to run when the temp needle is at 1/3? Before, when my switch was bad, my temp gauge was always at about half, or needle straight up and would only go up in stop and go traffic.
Does anybody know what the operating temp of this engine in regards to where the temp guage needle should be .
On a related note, when I was replacing this switch, I removed the heat shield for easier access and left it off for future ease of maintenance because it was such a pain to remove. It is now obvious to me that it is there for rider comfort - to keep the heat off you-and not for engine cooling. I have read where some guys remove this to keep air moving across the engine - sure but you are but it is hot air. I am going to put it back on, but have cut it in half so that I won't need to remove the radiator and fan to get it out.
Does anybody know what the operating temp of this engine in regards to where the temp guage needle should be .
On a related note, when I was replacing this switch, I removed the heat shield for easier access and left it off for future ease of maintenance because it was such a pain to remove. It is now obvious to me that it is there for rider comfort - to keep the heat off you-and not for engine cooling. I have read where some guys remove this to keep air moving across the engine - sure but you are but it is hot air. I am going to put it back on, but have cut it in half so that I won't need to remove the radiator and fan to get it out.
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When I tested my switch, it was closing at 214 degrees (read with infra-red thermal reader). On my gauges, that is when my temp needle is at just about half (near straight up). My fan also really only comes on in stop and go traffic when the engine is heating up and there is no air passing through the radiator. I also checked my thermostat and it opens at 196 degrees and closes at 188 degrees.Retroyz":2qd1m4gn said:
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I've found from observing a few 1100's the fan should come on at 3/4 gauge then off at a bit below 1/2 gauge. This is with a gauge that's reading accurately.
Retroyz":yjpz9zl3 said:
Totally agree as far as functioning "correctly" for a custom bike. If you are reading this and you are a die-hard OEM restorer or maintainer obviously not the option for you but, to each their own.
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I have switched between engines, radiators and fan switches between swaps and my fan has always kicked in at the same place on the gauge.......of course, assuming the gauge is correct. It only goes as high as 3/4 during 95+ temps and stop and go traffic with the fan running.dan filipi":i0oswecd said:
danf
Well-known member
My geo metro switch that's a 216 degree's kicks on just over halfway mark on the gauge, it cycles on and then off for one minute, in 95+ temps, never even coming close to 3/4 on the gauge..
larryc
Member
I bought a new oem thermal switch last year. It lasted less than a year before it quit. Yesterday I took it apart to check it out. There was no sign of corrosion. I put it back together and it does work, but now it turns on at about 140 degrees and never shuts off until the engine has cooled down. Any ideas? I guess I'll see if one of my other engines has one, take it apart, clean it and try it. I sure never expected a new one to last less than a year!
I have heard that a fan switch from a 1992-1994 Geo Metro xfi will fit and has about the same temperature range as the GL. The thread size must be 18 x 1.5 mm. I know one manurfacture's part number is TS270. I just ordered one from rockauto.com for $30. Caveat: you will need to pigtails to the switch in order for it to fit the wire harness terminals for the fan switch.
I formerly retrofitted a simular switch but the temp range was too low, causing the fan to run too much, so I temporarily bypassed it with a manual switch. I will try it again when I get the new switch.
I formerly retrofitted a simular switch but the temp range was too low, causing the fan to run too much, so I temporarily bypassed it with a manual switch. I will try it again when I get the new switch.
