the Hunley, or pidjones needed a project - '78 frame with '75 engine

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Yesterday a second set of forks came in. Much better than the ones on the Hunley. Just a few very light nicks that I've already smoothed and polished. I'll still probably rebuild them, since they are off and there is a whole winter of wrench time ahead - plus I have two sets of new seals. I'll probably even see if I can try to save the old set and rebuild them.

I now have new connectors for replacing the old rotten and corroded multi-pin connectors on it, and have already started that project. I am pulling the old pins on most connectors and stripping, cleaning tinning, and soldering after crimping the new connectors on. Part of this is because as I began "ringing out" the wires, I noticed resistance from .6 (low for my meter leads) - 8 ohms as I wiggled them - indication of severe corrosion inside the crimps. I'm also applying Liquid Electrical Tape to all of the nicks in the insulation caused by a PO using those awful tap connectors. I just hope none of them seriously damaged the internal wires. The "three yellow wires" are being connected with 150 amp gold-plated RC helicopter connectors, and then fully sheathed in yellow shrink tubing. Harbor Freight has marine shrink tubing with adhesive on the inside, and I'm using that in many places to weather proof as much as possible. Hey, moisture happens - I just want to keep it where it doesn't do much damage. The poor Hunley has already had her time under water!
 
Still working on the wiring. The junction box was all twisted around and had connectors in the wrong places. I've had to replace the red meter connector with a white one - maybe I'll color over it with a red Sharpie. Getting tired of wiring, so I think that I'll next pull the oil screen and neutral switch to check both out. At least there is so much to do that there is always something else if I get bored with one task.

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Took the neutral switch out and cleaned it up. Will probably JB weld a drop on the edge of the threaded part to replace the glue that I cut off with a pocket knife. It wasn't in real bad shape. Replaced the mangled gasket between the screwed-in insulator and the body (must have been leaking oil like a sieve) with a Viton o-ring, and replaced the body-to-block o-ring with a new Viton ring.

Pulled the oil pump suction screen out (only had to chisel on over-tight Phillips screw). Had stuff stuck to it (gasket cement?) in little globs. Was able to get it all off the screen. Fished in the bottom of the sump for any tell-tale problems. Only found one mangled piece of rubber (forgot to take a picture - hopefully will remember tonight).

Question - is there any kind of seal between the pump suction and the screen body, or is it just metal-to-metal? I thought that maybe the mangled piece of rubber may have been remnants of a seal.
 
I had the same question when I had my screen out....as far as I know, the screen is just a press fit into the suction tube/housing...
 
Lipstick on a pig?
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Took the screen cover back off to check the o-ring on it - needs replaced. While I had the cover in my hand, why not clean it up good? Also added a dab of JB Weld to the neutral switch and picked up some button head Allen screws on the way home today for the cover.
Figured out that the chunk of rubber that I found in the sump was remnants of a cover bolt grommet.

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Last night all I got done was sandblasting off the primer over the areas of the frame where I had over-ground when removing the center stand mount. Then I mixed up some JB Weld to use as filler and spread it on. Hopefully left it a little under-filled so I dont have to do much sanding/grinding to remove excess.
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Ok,, this has been delayed for a while. When pulling the engine, the left footpeg stud wrung off with the nut. (and only using a 17mm combination wrench.)
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Options for repair were many, cutting it out from the frame, opening the hole to the cross-pipe, and making a new plug that a stud could thread into that would be welded in, cut it at some mid-point and machine (I have a lathe) a stump stud to join by threading or welding. Cutting off, boring and threading a hole in the frame was not an option as Honda saw fit to just have about 4mm that it joins to on the end of the tube. The break was almost flush with the peg arm flange, so I choose to:
Grind it down a little below the peg arm and center-drill it:
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Then drill it out and tap it for an 8 X 1.25 X 20 bolt:
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I had to run in to Ace Hardware to get an 8 X 1.25 plug tap that I cut off to make a bottoming tap (I already had a taper tap). While there, I picked up an 8mm X 20 class 10.9 bolt, an 8mm fender washer and lock washer.
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Took a few hours, but one more thing off the list!
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About as much as it can get. Plans are to finish the stripping tomorrow and get some etching primer and regular sandable primer on it, do a little smoothing, then put sealing primer on to avoid rust. Then it will set until the weather cools and DRYS OUT a little so I can put the base coat and clear on it. Still don't known about the panels - may have a pro do them.
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Got it to the point that I put a can of self-etching primer on it this evening. Would have preferred to do a little more with abrasives, but it is so humid here that it was flash-rusting faster than I could get it off! After it was sprayed, we took it inside and I ran the heat gun over it to drive the moisture out of the paint. Will pick up another can tomorrow and flip the frame over, shoot it on the bottom. Also built a frame to hang it on for painting out of old tarp cover poles and corners that we had over our boat (back when we had a boat). I think that with a tarp over it, it could suffice for a paint booth.
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Finished putting another can of self-etching primer on (this time from the top). Baked that a little with the heat gun, waited 30 minutes, and put a can of sandable primer on. Tomorrow, things permitting, I'll put a can of sandable on from the bottom. The replacement removable frame section is due,in tomorrow, and I need to clean the area around a small spot on it for my coworker to weld up for me, then it will get stripped and primed. Still a month before humidity levels around here drop to where I can put base and clear coats on.
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Upholstery material for the Hunley seat came in. I'm not ready for the seat to be covered, but the shelter panel was cleaned and primed, so the pattern of the seating material will continue up the center of the shelter.
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The other accomplishment on it this week was settling on a color and a way to get there for the frame. This is 4:1 Jet Black to Champagne Gold Metallic Duplicolor Paint Shop Lacquer on the cover of one of the Bates bags that came with the Hunley. A lot of "orange peal", but the color is exactly what I want! Yeah, I know lacquer is old school and doesn't hold up like the new paints and all the other hits on it. It's getting lacquer.
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The green they are laying on is the upholstery for the back/rear sides of the cafe seat.
 

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