Timing Adjustment

[CRAFTMAN6001]

I set the engine up for light bulb timing. Hot to blue on the harness out or in whatever you call load side and moved the crank to f1 f2 no matter where it is the bulb stays lit. Any idea why this might be happening? I do have a timing light but had to make up a site eye. I wanted to check it. When I was bumping the engine over it backfired so I know it's advanced. When I start it up it turns over advanced (you can tell) I need to know what I should do here thanks. Please and thank you.. :hi:

 

[zman]

I put it on the TDC F1 mark then turn the timing plate till the points just start to open, with the ignition off you could use the Ohm setting to see it, especially if it is an analog meter. The points will break the ground when firing occurs, thats what sends the spark to the plug, coil is looking for a ground and finds it at the plugs gap.
You probably know this just wanted to be sure.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

zman » Sun Apr 05, 2015 12:52 pm[/url]":1wfi3v84]
I put it on the TDC F1 mark then turn the timing plate till the points just start to open, with the ignition off you could use the Ohm setting to see it, especially if it is an analog meter. The points will break the ground when firing occurs, thats what sends the spark to the plug, coil is looking for a ground and finds it at the plugs gap.
You probably know this just wanted to be sure.

Yea no points in here dyna but I did find it firing way to early I'll back yard time it with a piece of plastic hose clamp and my timing light..

 

[joedrum]

get rid of that dyna ... there not accurate ... there rotor deal hangs at times ...and in no way dose it do the same as the stock advancer ..and it could the advancer itself springs bad or just not free enough to work right ...

 

[Ansimp]

joedrum » Mon Apr 06, 2015 4:23 am[/url]":1v5yx3wm]
get rid of that dyna ... there not accurate ... there rotor deal hangs at times ...and in no way dose it do the same as the stock advancer ..and it could the advancer itself springs bad or just not free enough to work right ...

I would check your advance mechanisim as Joe has stated. I normally pull no1 plug and make sure TDC is definitely where I think it should be by probing when the piston is rocking ( full extension).

 

[slabghost]

If you have the points I'd use those. They fire more consistently than the older electronic ignitions. Yes they need periodic attention but they are reliable.

 

[zman]

You could also try this hybrid system for points, part electronic using stock points.
https://sohc4shop.com/catalog/product_in ... e8b0564fa7

 

[joedrum]

save for c5 is the best answer in my opinion...5 star product if theere ever was one ...

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

joedrum » Sun Apr 05, 2015 4:14 pm[/url]":38inlfh5]
save for c5 is the best answer in my opinion...5 star product if theere ever was one ...

When I do my 77 I'm going to the c5 You can bet on it ...... :music: :music:

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

Okay here's the skinny on the timing I used (see picture) and made a eye so I could time it. Now when I set the timing back to F1 AND F2 started the bike and noticed a big change in the sound of the engine. Also when I gave it the throttle it popped and really had no real power (slow on the throttle) pull. So I set it back to what it was. I don't know why these bikes seem slow like this on the takeoff. But it runs great where it was. But if you bump the starter button it will pop. I looked at where it was firing when I had the plugs out to see how far advanced it was and when it fired the bottom of the number was @ the top of the hole to give you an Idea on how advanced it really is . The bike don't seem to mind other than dont bump it over. Starter button till fire uup. Comments Please.

 

[slabghost]

Should be able to retard timing while running by turning the main base plate in the direction the rotor is turning. Easier to find the sweet spot while it runs.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

slabghost » Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:24 pm[/url]":2c4jr2nn]
Should be able to retard timing while running by turning the main base plate in the direction the rotor is turning. Easier to find the sweet spot while it runs.

:rocks: yuup I think I did but going to play with it this weekend.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

ok I got another issue with this ignition system for whatever reason the coil that runs the number 1 and number 2 cylinder spark is low. normally the coil wire will jump spark out of the boot to the manifold nut about a half an inch solid blue. coil and run cylinder 3 & 4 sparking strong. coil 1 that run cylinder 1 & 2 is weak. when I pulled the engine out I pulled the plug from the main wiring harness and ever since then the spark is weak on those two cylinders one and two. any idea where I need to check to make sure the voltage is up to par on that coil starting point first did check where the Dana plugs into the harness.

 

[slabghost]

Clean the connection for power wire to that coil. If it fits together loosely crimp the female connector a little.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

slabghost » Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:10 am[/url]":3qnw2bfu]
Clean the connection for power wire to that coil. If it fits together loosely crimp the female connector a little.

I did check out the connection and all is good at the dyna plug. I did unplug the coils when i removed the false tank. I will have a look there. The rack on the right side seems to be cooler in temperature at idle. I checked the slow idle jets to insure there clean. Until I get the spark thing figured out wont know whats up with that. Going to set up a bench engine to run.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

you would figure after 41 views that more than one reply would help or have an answer. But like it or not I guess no one is up for the challenge For what ever reason I came here to this form to get (what I thought was gl goorew crew I tried to get the high tech answers and posted my questions and issues as clear as possible to no avail. That just sad To think no one has ever had wiring trouble with a GL. I take a great deal of interest in this bike and thought others did as well. there are others that will take the time to help out a guy with an old bike like this one. I'm stuck with the same issue I haven't found an answer for. That's okay, I will in time.Once I figure it out I'll Let others know the unwritten language they seek. Or where to read up on to find the answer and not something like check the plug.. Duh



This was posted over where they say they know whats going on but after 41 views I get check the plug cap how fn retarded. I had lost some power to the coils they are throwing spark like a stock set would not like a dyna set did. I want to wire them direct on there own circuit. Get them outside the harness. The thing somehow went down on both coils now I hold a screwdriver in the dyna boot and it wont fire unless it's 3mm to ground so to feed the coils power =? Anyone ever run them direct.

I'm just trying to get all the best answers to get this figured out I just cant believe that no one overthere has never had wiring issues with a Gl before . Just showed me that there all about themselves Just plain sad.. :rtfm:

 

[slabghost]

Direct connection is not advisable . However. You can use the bike feed to the coils to activate a relay and run a fresh wire from the battery through the relay to power the coils. This will be a fresh full power delivery to power the coils. It will also retain the bikes safety through kill switch and ignition wiring. I did that on my old KZ..

 

[dan filipi]

I would try to help you more but not knowing much about the 1000 points setup I rather keep quiet than steer wrong.

This I do know....

GL's have plenty of wiring problems.
The coils are aged and many are cracked.
The wiring especially at the plugs get corroded and can't pass enough current.
Gl's seem especially sensitive to low voltage to the ignition.
Plug wires on the 1000 are non replaceable. Only choice is new. Used stock of no help here imo.

I'm sure there is more.

 

[dan filipi]

Oh and what slab suggested is what I'd probably do next.
At least that would rule out the bike wiring and a relay to provide good power direct from the battery is a good idea anyhow. Bypass the the old wiring and multitude of plugs.

 

[joedrum]

power wire from coils ...one from battery and a lock nut connector get it done just don forget to un do it it will burn up the coils ...