Timing Adjustment

[CRAFTMAN6001]

I can totally understand that Dan. bottom line is for some reason the output voltage to the coils has dropped or its a grounding issue. I check continuity from the wiring harness at the Dana pick up through coil side out for continuity. yellow and blue ring out clear. there's 11.9 volts at the wire that attaches to the coil either blue or yellow. there's 12 volts to the Dana pick up assesory ternimal power 12 volts.the two wires that initially had the ballast resistor up to it are looped together like they should be via instructions coil installation.I want to run 12 volt direct from the battery coil input side on a toggle switch or relay to ensure 12 volt to the coil signal. but I'm not entirely convinced that 11.9 volts would cause the spark improper being that it was firing fine rich blue thick as a pencil led over a half an inch at the head of the boot. now I can't get a spark unless I am 3 millimeters at most from ground out of either set of coils. so something weird happened in the wiring harness somewhere. prior to all of this what I sue my output voltage was reading was high. I changed out the regulator rectifier at high voltage readings cross my gauges temperature voltmeter I change the Sevenfoldvolt regulator my temperature gauge prior to changing seven volt. said my engine was overheating. so when I changed it out all readings returned to normal at the gauges.that's why I wanted to diagnose the input voltage or the ground the two coils are grounded to the frame cuz they're bolted so I'm unsure.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

joedrum » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:47 pm[/url]":1ndtotyx]
power wire from coils ...one from battery and a lock nut connector get it done just don forget to un do it it will burn up the coils ...

power wire connects to the other side of the coils where the red and blue go in right? that's where you would put your toggle to turn the voltage on and off from your source to the coils

 

[joedrum]

ok a lot of time the ballist resistor is good but voltage is doewn ...lots of heat there ..a lot of times it is coth covered wire that goes bad ...it 40 yrs old ans suffere more heat the all the other wires ..might want to replace that wire and see if it gets better ...

 

[dan filipi]

So if I'm understanding, the Dyna that's on it right now did have a fat spark but now it's weak?
What changed between now and then?

One thing important to keep in mind is you can see good voltage on a wire but when that wire needs to pass CURRENT, it can't. Nearly always, maybe always, is because of a loose or corroded connection causing a high resistance.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

joedrum » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:55 pm[/url]":27www958]
ok a lot of time the ballist resistor is good but voltage is doewn ...lots of heat there ..a lot of times it is coth covered wire that goes bad ...it 40 yrs old ans suffere more heat the all the other wires ..might want to replace that wire and see if it gets better ...

Yeah thats the one that the ballst was in line with it's looped round now Dyna coils I'l have a look there as well' That wire is soild steel I think inside it gos back into the plug then who know where. Yes Dan fat now weak 3mm jump only with a screwdriver in the boot. Beforre it would jump out of the boot to ground so that a big loss in spark

 

[slabghost]

Mounting bolts are often the only ground for components. I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams lately though. The relay idea is a good one and has served me well on my old kz.

 

[joedrum]

if it has dyna dose it have dyna green coils

 

[dan filipi]

Well I'm too much not knowing when it comes to Dyna or points on these bikes but a hot bypassing all bike electrical seems like the next logical step.
I would in hooking this up, connect Dyna as it says in the instructions. Only difference should be how it gets battery + and - , that should be direct from battery to test.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

That's why I
d figure I'd bypass the harness all together and feed them direct to see if the spark jump improves then go from there. Yeah I also see a green wire that bolts to the aluminum body then go's ? Yup I do have a relay to do the work Just want to make sure I feed the coils correct blue yello signal. othherside is power to both I think yes there green and have no hrs on them this just happen sence the engine swap

 

[julimike54]

I know nothing about this subject...for sure, but what about coil swap? Is that feasible to see if problem moves? I'll shut up now

 

[dan filipi]

Honda ground wire is green if that helps any.

 

[zman]

A quick check for a good ground from the battery to engine, just a jumper with alligator clips or a batter jumper cable to the ground battery terminal and then to the engine, sure sound like you losing ground someplace.
These things are tough to armchair fix.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

yeah I hear that . Okay thanks fellas :hi: This dam thing is driving me crazy. I changed out the coils to Dyna Green and i'm running dyna pickup. I think I got the information I need to have another round at it . So it's power to the coils one side The other side is signal Blue Yellow from pickup. Ground coils power from battery to coils (toggle or relay) signal from pickup to yellow to yellow, Blue to blue Starter button should have good spark sound about right?

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

joedrum » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:47 pm[/url]":1sdhvirc]
power wire from coils ...one from battery and a lock nut connector get it done just don forget to un do it it will burn up the coils ...

Joe that cloth wire that had the ballast hooked to it (originally) it's looped now . Where dose that go to from in to out ? Can I just loop it @ the plug (wire with crimp or something) to insure its connection

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

zman » Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:10 pm[/url]":3cyj9nep]
A quick check for a good ground from the battery to engine, just a jumper with alligator clips or a batter jumper cable to the ground battery terminal and then to the engine, sure sound like you losing ground someplace.
These things are tough to armchair fix.

I have beefed up my ground wherever I can This I do know these bikes are awful with grounds. I went through it back when to insure connections was good. I wnated to build a new harness because of the Issues it has looks like I will be doing this this weekend

 

[mcgovern61]

Wish I could help, but all of my Wing experience is with the 1100...no points or Dyna. :wave: opcorn:

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

Okay there is an Issue in the wiring amagine that. I ran it direct to the battery with a toggle inline feed the coils direct from the pickup all hunky dunky. There is life in the wire again. So for some reason there is an Issue in the wiring have a look at my redneck jumper delieo. It worked for the minuet so when I get home from work I'll figure out what happen.

Hey Joe what dose that wire that went to the ballast the braded one where dose that loop round to?

 

[dan filipi]

Glad you're getting it.

 

[CRAFTMAN6001]

Thanks for all your help.. Truly :salute: Just being able to bounce ideas and get information sure helps .. :hi:

 

[aussiegold]

g'day from OZ.
i have been through this a bazillion times and it is frustrating. so, try to stay calm.... :BigGrin:
as i understand it, you suspect a weak spark from one coil and are also experiencing the normal woes of trying to time the Dyna.
first thing is to take a look at the stock wiring so you can see where the power comes from and where it goes to.
here is the US type ignition wiring diagram.

your bike has a dyna module in place of points, which changes things a little.
very first thing to do is remove the module and also remove the timing advance plate that sits behind it. clean and lubricate
that plate and ensure that the springs dont bind on anything.
next, check the power supply for the Dyna unit ( red wire ) and make sure there is a good connection there.
Dyna unit bypasses the condensors, so make sure they are unplugged. ( they are mounted on the battery box )
if you have stock coils , it should have the ballast resistor supplied by Dyna , the ballast resistor is the white ceramic block mounted on the coils. ( see the diagram )
if you have Green Dyna coils, no ballast is needed and those wires can be simply joined together.
check and clean all the connections to the coils.
then , remove the plugs and put them in the leads. crank the bike over ( dont forget to have the kill switch in the RUN position )
see what spark you have . if you suspect either the front cylinders or the rear ones have a weak spark, simply switch the
yellow and blue/yellow wires that trigger the coils. if the weak spark follows , there is your problem .
next is to time the mongrel thing and here is where the real fun begins. :head bang:
this tutorial is very good , and good pictures as well. here is how to install.https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5614
and here is how to adjust the thing ..https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5720
but first , lets get your concerns about the spark problem addressed.
PS
while you are checking the coil connections , its a good idea to clean up the ground wire ( green ) that should be bolted to the frame at the coil mounts. there is also a main one behind the triangle shaped engine mount on the left hand side and another inside the headlight housing. ( those are the main ones ) :salute: