Weber considerations

[joedrum]

this may be true eric on some of the points i blabed ive got about a couple hrs in this carb only and it all in observation ... but the storyies ive heard aboult this carb mostly is like instant shut down that indicates major event ...not something small im a little more aggressive in moves noe that ive got some time in on carb mods....

 

[dan filipi]

Topic title changed.

 

[joedrum]

ok -12 degrees i will drive into the 32-36 carb today ....well already doing so pics coming ... :builder: :thanks:

 

[ekvh]

Just add how I am making the 32/36 a bit thinner to fit between frame rails. I checked my hack saw, and there in very small letters it said, "joedrum special." So what the heck, I used it.

I was hoping there was an inner brass tube and tried to sneak up to it. In the end I twisted and the aluminum sheared off. Saves about an inch of width. I will drill and press in a new barb for fuel. Should fit nicely now. Bonus to this carb is quite a few folks have forced induction through it up to nine pounds without trouble. I don't know if I'll go there eventually or not. I am more tempted to ratchet the compression up more and use more octane, possibly towards E85. Rubber bits in this would have to be swapped out. There doesn't seem to be too many though.

If you're bored with this, here's some bacon wrapped scallops.

 

[joedrum]

well itook me awhile to figure out the power valve ...i really was clueless .on the operation completely ...i now see how the feed works .....and it rather seems the oldwing just cant close the power valve .....to even come close to idling ...on some 32-36 ...it seems this carb can be set up many ways ..and some have got it to work but not good ...

it also seems the idle circuit is much more adjustable than dft ...this might be a great thing if my hunch on the power valve pan out ...no pics today but soon.....and better ones i hope.....

cool mod eric ..that is a joedrum way for sure i will copy that im sure :builder: :thanks:

 

[dan filipi]

Mmmmm.......bacon

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:48 am[/url]":2jnc6gwx]
Mmmmm.......bacon

+1 and scallops :yes:

 

[joedrum]

...ok pics

this pic shows the power valve in the bowl on the 32-36 carb ....it is attached to the carb top ...

this pic shows the power valve feed ..it has pin on it ...and when power valve is attached to top ..in it spring loaded position it pushes on the bottom feed power valve feed ...the carb has to produce high vacume to retract this spring to stop power valve feed to carb.....the spring on the power valve is stout .... the power valve has 4 holes in it that makes you gas goes through there it dont the holes are there to just equalize pressure too valve inside the bowl i think....it seems maybe the power valve can be defeated by just taking out power valve out and block the vacuum to bowl ...or maybe not ... not sure it matters as long as bowl vent is good ...

this info is just my first work with this carb ..so i am just learning it and dont take it for anything more than that :builder: :thanks:

 

[ekvh]

Should be able to thread in a bolt to block it off or solder the powervalve closed where the pin is. From the diagrams, this pin when open allows 20% greater flow to the main jet and air jets in the primary. I have seen online where racers remove the powervalve and loop tubes up into both barrels. https://www.thelolaregistry.com/DIY/Weber.htm

 

[joedrum]

interesting link eric but i aint going there yet ...seems this mod is for maxium fuel flow ...and in the end it not very tuneable either ...i think ill try just strait carb first .... :thanks:

 

[ekvh]

The point I was making was that if it does run well without the full-power-jet (plugged or disabled) it can be made to be turbo'd or s-charged without a lot of modifications. (If it gets lean.) Key to this will be runner diameter, I think. I'm hoping 1.25" I.D. is small enough for it to idle decent but big enough to take advantage of the larger venturis.

And it doesn't have to be plugged. Just removing the actuator closes the full-power-valve,--- the pin is up. You might need to seal the top part though as there is a vacuum port there. I'm inclined to try it that way as it will make it easy to reinstall if needed further down the road.

They plugged the port with epoxy. https://www.thelolaregistry.com/DIY/Webe ... G_1417.JPG

 

[joedrum]

eric ...im incline to block vacuum at carb base and just leave the rest ...much easier to undo.....today im getting into the jets and passages and tubes :builder: :thanks: ....

 

[joedrum]

:shock: well it seems this carb is ready to try ...my gut feeling is ..it going to work..really nothing more to on this carb till tried to see where im at ...

hmmmm have to find something else to do now for inside incarceration by mother dearest... :cheeky: got to make some linkage for throttle and fuel feed mod like or something like eric did and it ready to go on hooch for a test when weather gets right
:builder: :thanks:

 

[ekvh]

We're supposed to go -22C for high temps the next few days.

 

[corba75]

I tried to do the carburetor from the car, and we did everything, but the problem very difficult to work out, because the intake manifold very long and should be in the morning or when the engine is cold to long engine is started, only to be turned on, and at the end when I went for a test drive, he could not put on enough fuel when you give him gas, and now back factory carburetors ago

 

[ekvh]

That is what most have found.

 

[joedrum]

well i see no reason it wont work ...with that ridicules power valve removed .. but i dont have much time in it yet .....but i wouldnt bet against me....

 

[ekvh]

I'm not writing the power valve off yet. The whole reason I got interested in this was the success of the dft. I like the idea of being able to enrich, but with motors which are a little small for 32/36, maybe it can be brought in at higher rpm. Blocking the holes in the power valve is one way, but changing the point of opening is another. Having a totally tight intake system, it still may be low enough vacuum to having the power valve open all the time, which would certainly explain the lack of success with it. I have found a few posts of folks at theSamba who have plugged it. The other piece I just read about was that some 32/36's had high-speed dump tube. (I could use one of those this morning) It is a brass tube in the top of the secondary. Mine doesn't have it. Probably not needed for our small displacements.

I am thinking of nipping bits of the spring of the actuator to allow it to be lifted with less vacuum. Trying to change the vacuum port size looks to be a twisted tale.

 

[joedrum]

oh i see your a new member.... well ive been on the forums since 2008 ....have done many project whiles the gurus have have challenged every project ive done ... so far as im sitting here in every case cant think of one completed project that wasnt a success .....cant tech is no tech ...i pay no attension to such people and there opinions....as far car carbs go ive already huge success .....and i am not bother one bit by the challenge of this carb ....that for yrs has had huge canters discount it ....mechanics is way more talent than plug and play mods or shiny chrome.......

you are very right car carbs are not going to just work .....they were made for something else so ones who go here must be ready to pay attention to what in there hand instread of reading short sighted info .....once thats done it clears the mind so a person can actually have an open mind to do the project ....this approach ive learn is a necessary mode to be in to be successful .....thats me....... info challenge is not project stopper its a complete motivator ...works great .....

ive got a single carb 1200 powered 1000 framed bike that just proves it all ...it will run with anything .... it is a pleasure to have such a bike ...this carb im working on now will probably be tried on my bike ...it is set up in such a way ...carb change will fast ...and i can compare to success of the other car carb ....there are many who tried this carb ...i was promped by this thread to try it ...we will see

im not writing anything off on trying it eric ...of all posts ive read about this carb no one seems to have tried ...my ovservation gut feeling is the oldwing motor just cant deal with this huge mismatch the power valve bring to the table :builder: :builder: :thanks:

 

[ekvh]

You'll get to it before I get a chance, so I'm looking forward to how it works. Getting ahead of myself, but are you going to use the 2-1 adapter? I am wondering about just a straight one or two inch riser using both barrels. Not a lot of room above it on my current build with the Meanstreak tank. I know HOTT and most here have had luck with the 2-1 adapter which probably keeps the charge moving fast enough to get it there still vaporized enough. I can't help but think it must give up a little at the higher rpm ranges.

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