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Lack of response? Did you hook up the vac line from the carbs to the ignition vac advance? Did you check for vacuum leaks (air)? Are the air/fuel mix screws set as they were from factory or at nominal book setting? Fan doesn't normally come on until most of us are ready to panic reading the temp gauge. Almost in the red.
 
Yes I did connect the vac line. I didn't check for leaks. Pilot crews set to 2.5 turns, not the original setting, this was a a setting from a youtube video. Because I didn't documented my original setting :doh: . I maybe have vacuum leaks since I didn't want to go to hard on the carbs vac covers screws. Maybe there? :headscratch:

ok so Should I just leave the wing running until it gets to the red area on the temp gauge and then the fan will kick in?

:thanks: for the Help!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187940#p187940:2vd12otk said:
cowboy45 » 9 minutes ago[/url]":2vd12otk]
Yes I did connect the vac line. I didn't check for leaks. Pilot crews set to 2.5 turns, not the original setting, this was a a setting from a youtube video. Because I didn't documented my original setting :doh: . I maybe have vacuum leaks since I didn't want to go to hard on the carbs vac covers screws. Maybe there? :headscratch:

ok so Should I just leave the wing running until it gets to the red area on the temp gauge and then the fan will kick in?

:thanks: for the Help!
About 3/4 gauge scale, not into red.
 
Turn your fan on if it starts too get hot. Always have at least one door open, with the fan handy ,if not turned on when testing, or running the motor myself
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187944#p187944:2in690or said:
Denver » 10 minutes ago[/url]":2in690or]
Turn your fan on if it starts too get hot. Always have at least one door open, with the fan handy ,if not turned on when testing, or running the motor myself

So you suggest I should connect the fan with a switch for testing?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187947#p187947:3d46ex6b said:
cowboy45 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:45 am[/url]":3d46ex6b]
In your experience what is more likely to fail the fan or the sensor?
The sensor gets dirty and stops functioning. The fans are simple and pretty hardy. Not saying a fan cannot fail, but that is not the norm.

I would pull the sensor and be sure it is clean and then test it out of the bike. I tested it using water, but others use antifreeze or even oil to keep the unit submerged and not in boiling water. The test does not go as well with boiling water since it takes twice as long to heat up the sender if the water is boiling.

viewtopic.php?p=28869#p28869
 
Could just ground the switch wire and have the fan running always. Many leave the mix screws at the nominal book setting because they are such a pain to get to for adjustment. Still it's much better if they are adjusted to get highest rpm at each carb.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187955#p187955:i5n73fqs said:
slabghost » Today, 11:11 am[/url]":i5n73fqs]
Could just ground the switch wire and have the fan running always. Many leave the mix screws at the nominal book setting because they are such a pain to get to for adjustment. Still it's much better if they are adjusted to get highest rpm at each carb.

Hmm ok I see what you are saying. I will try that. Thanks! :good:
 
Actually there is the sensor which feeds the temp gauge and the fan "switch" that has the single wire from the fan. The switch is the likely culprit.
 
I had problems with the fan sensor as well, and the bike got too hot when the fan did not come on. I considered just having the fan run all the time as suggested above, but I decided to just put it on a switch and by-pass the sensor. When testing that fan be sure to get it grounded properly or you'll think it is bad and buy a new one. I've hears some people have done that. Ahem. New fans are pretty though.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187997#p187997:13n64n8k said:
wedoo2 » Wed Mar 15, 2017 8:49 pm[/url]":13n64n8k]
When testing that fan be sure to get it grounded properly or you'll think it is bad and buy a new one. I've hears some people have done that. Ahem. New fans are pretty though.
:smilie_happy: :salute:
 
Thanks for the advice!

Next thing is to check on the thermostatic sw... I will be uploading some pics soon. I have done some mods to the wing! It was on a diet... :smilie_happy:
 
Hello All!

Update and Question:

I've checked my thermostat and it works. the thermostatic sw doesn't seem to be working. I found a $19 at fleebay :smilie_happy: Would you recommend one of these?

Is it likely to have a vacuum leak at one of the intake boots? I have not check for leaks yet...just asking. this will be my next step to check for vacuum leaks. I'm still experiencing a rough idle and if I twist the throttle it feels like it will die. at cold start when I choke there is a fluctuation in the rpms. I was able to sync the carbs and they were all responsive at that time.
What would be the normal working temperature for the wing? mid the temp gauge? past mid?.
I'm in my learning phase here with carbs any help is greatly appreciated!
 
ok ..on the intake boots ..the way i do is to have the intake boots at the carbs loose...this way when you tighten the intakes at head you want as much no tension on it as you can get ..even get cerb rack weight off with a prop of some kind ..then want thats tight ..both sides ..tighten boots at carb rack ..usually works great ..
 
Ben, I just rebuilt a set of '81 carbs and I made the mistake of not completely checking the accelerator pump circuit. Here is what I should have done.

Pulled the carbs and setup my lawn mower gas tank to the carbs to put some gas pressure on them. Flip the throttle and no gas coming out the acc jets.

I though I cleaned everything? Checked the acc pump cover and sure enough, nothing is flowing. I put an air compressor on it and still no flow through the port.

I tried to dig down from the port with a paper clip,but nothing came out. Here is a pic from Roady's tutorial showing the flow of those passages.

image.php


The accelerator pump cover has two channels to clean. I found that this is a good place where that high "E" string from a guitar is handy! You can poke around the brass insert with the string to clear the passage and then spray carb cleaner through the hole. That did the trick! :yahoo:
 

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