Single Carb Conversion: Adapt the stock plenum
- Thread starter westgl
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Yes I have tried to manually choke the 32DFT during a cold start.
My Bike even in 40 degree start up, rejected the use of any choking at all.
I used my Cold start method, I posted it on one of the single carb threads, that seems to work the best.
My new Cold start Method is;
4 to 5ea pumps to full throttle holding open fully, for a one second count between pumps
Then hit starter.
and rev engine in low revs to about 2k rpm to 2.5k rpm, about 6 to 10 times, or till a high idle is achieved/maintained and it is running smooth, then hold at 2k Rpm with a throttle lock type cruiser control Like a vista cruise model.
I let it High idle at 2k Rpm, (kind of Like a choke would if it had one) till engine is just past the Blue bar on the temp gauge, that is about 5 minutes, maybe a little less or so, depending on out side temperature.
Then just take it easy till you are up to full operating temp.
My Bike even in 40 degree start up, rejected the use of any choking at all.
I used my Cold start method, I posted it on one of the single carb threads, that seems to work the best.
My new Cold start Method is;
4 to 5ea pumps to full throttle holding open fully, for a one second count between pumps
Then hit starter.
and rev engine in low revs to about 2k rpm to 2.5k rpm, about 6 to 10 times, or till a high idle is achieved/maintained and it is running smooth, then hold at 2k Rpm with a throttle lock type cruiser control Like a vista cruise model.
I let it High idle at 2k Rpm, (kind of Like a choke would if it had one) till engine is just past the Blue bar on the temp gauge, that is about 5 minutes, maybe a little less or so, depending on out side temperature.
Then just take it easy till you are up to full operating temp.
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99196#p99196:2kdubw2m said:
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Starting without a choke is a matter of preference I would say.
It does start but I have to say if I was making frequent stops in cold weather for 10 minutes or more then having to warm it up every time for a couple minutes, this could get old fast.
I might be looking into the 1 barrel carb that has an electric choke small enough to fit.
Modding the stock choke cable looks doable too.
It does start but I have to say if I was making frequent stops in cold weather for 10 minutes or more then having to warm it up every time for a couple minutes, this could get old fast.
I might be looking into the 1 barrel carb that has an electric choke small enough to fit.
Modding the stock choke cable looks doable too.
I think converting to a manual choke is very doable.
There is already three screw holes at the choke location where the electric choke was,
Or maybe remove the electric section but leave the back half of the elec. choke, or the Mechanical half of the choke,
at any rate it looks do-able.
I am not sure how it run as i have no experience with less than 40 degrees.
But Coolant heat maybe all you need, then the choke would be a non issue.
Coolant may solve other issues you may come across riding in colder with than i am used to.
I wanted to take a look down inside my VW plenum, and at the threaded holes where the two threaded plugs screw in.
I was thinking that if you ran a coolant line in the threaded hole, with a brass fitting to lock and seal, run the coolant/heater tube through, in and out the other side then put another Brass threaded fitting on the other side to seal that side too.
But i dont have mine apart and i could not find a good picture showing those sections of the VW plenum
There is already three screw holes at the choke location where the electric choke was,
Or maybe remove the electric section but leave the back half of the elec. choke, or the Mechanical half of the choke,
at any rate it looks do-able.
I am not sure how it run as i have no experience with less than 40 degrees.
But Coolant heat maybe all you need, then the choke would be a non issue.
Coolant may solve other issues you may come across riding in colder with than i am used to.
I wanted to take a look down inside my VW plenum, and at the threaded holes where the two threaded plugs screw in.
I was thinking that if you ran a coolant line in the threaded hole, with a brass fitting to lock and seal, run the coolant/heater tube through, in and out the other side then put another Brass threaded fitting on the other side to seal that side too.
But i dont have mine apart and i could not find a good picture showing those sections of the VW plenum
I am looking at all the choke parts that i took off,
They are;
1. Electric bi-metal section, this is the part that makes the carb too wide. I done know if anything can be done here or not. this ads on to more length out from the carb
2. Choke Backing plate, this plate does not stick out any further than the throttle actuation linkage. this is 1.5" out from carb side, I think you would be ok and no interference, in carb to frame
3. Small Bracket that the choke linkage pivots on
I think that could be made to a manual choke with not a lot of work put into it.
As I am keeping mine just in case, I lean my jetting out and it needs to be choked in the future.
Just because it does not need to be choked right now does not mean that it will never need to be.
There is a vacuum diaphragm that could be utilized, also I would knock the vacuum port out and just put one of the screws in to seal it
They are;
1. Electric bi-metal section, this is the part that makes the carb too wide. I done know if anything can be done here or not. this ads on to more length out from the carb
2. Choke Backing plate, this plate does not stick out any further than the throttle actuation linkage. this is 1.5" out from carb side, I think you would be ok and no interference, in carb to frame
3. Small Bracket that the choke linkage pivots on
I think that could be made to a manual choke with not a lot of work put into it.
As I am keeping mine just in case, I lean my jetting out and it needs to be choked in the future.
Just because it does not need to be choked right now does not mean that it will never need to be.
There is a vacuum diaphragm that could be utilized, also I would knock the vacuum port out and just put one of the screws in to seal it
- Joined
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2018 BMW S1000 RR
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I read a post in that Saunders thread about drilling in coolant passages.
There seems to be enough metal in the type 4 plenum to do this, at least maybe through the middle bottom.
There seems to be enough metal in the type 4 plenum to do this, at least maybe through the middle bottom.
Yes on the other site they talk about drilling.
But that is Not what I am talking about.
I am talking about using the Vacuum hole on each side of the plenum, getting two brass fittings, and copper/brass tubing.
Going into one of those threaded vacuum holes, with the copper/Brass tubing, using the fitting to seal the thread, and against the brass tubing,
Those fittings would be your vacuum seal, the tubing would lay across the raised plenum floor to heat the fuel spray & the Plenum floor, heat transfer should heat the whole plenum.
Why drill a few New holes when you can maybe use the ones that are already threaded for a pipe thread.
Instead of sealing them, use them for heated coolant.
That is why I was trying to see some pictures of the vacuum holes and thew inside of the plenum.
I was hoping that the vacuum ports were just at the right height so a tube would go in and lay right on top of the high point of the plenum floor and go straight accross, to the other side.
But I dont remember how it looks in there, and relationship between the vacuum ports and plenum floor.
This could be a very good way to heat with No mods to the plenum other than two fittings and a piece of brass tubing.
But that is Not what I am talking about.
I am talking about using the Vacuum hole on each side of the plenum, getting two brass fittings, and copper/brass tubing.
Going into one of those threaded vacuum holes, with the copper/Brass tubing, using the fitting to seal the thread, and against the brass tubing,
Those fittings would be your vacuum seal, the tubing would lay across the raised plenum floor to heat the fuel spray & the Plenum floor, heat transfer should heat the whole plenum.
Why drill a few New holes when you can maybe use the ones that are already threaded for a pipe thread.
Instead of sealing them, use them for heated coolant.
That is why I was trying to see some pictures of the vacuum holes and thew inside of the plenum.
I was hoping that the vacuum ports were just at the right height so a tube would go in and lay right on top of the high point of the plenum floor and go straight accross, to the other side.
But I dont remember how it looks in there, and relationship between the vacuum ports and plenum floor.
This could be a very good way to heat with No mods to the plenum other than two fittings and a piece of brass tubing.
hmmmmm not a lot there and it strait across ...so I think it isn't much but who knows yet ...I know im getting into it soon with the stock plenum mod
hmmmmm
Engine is in, Newly rebuilt trans, This Car has been completely rebuilt throughout.
Engine, 180h.p. & 180 ft lbs of torque, in a 1900lbs car. It should get pretty good MPG and also have very good performance for a cage.
My brother is Very rich, he has a Audi R8 with every option, it is a work of Art!!! that is Incredibly & Unbelievably Fasst, very well engineered, machine, and handling is Not of this world!
My 2.5L Subie/Porsche is my cheap alternative to his very high $$$$ machine.
It handled really well with the old engine and old worn out parts before i rebuilt the car.
I still have the wiring to complete
He wont let me stand to close as i drool all over it
Engine, 180h.p. & 180 ft lbs of torque, in a 1900lbs car. It should get pretty good MPG and also have very good performance for a cage.
My brother is Very rich, he has a Audi R8 with every option, it is a work of Art!!! that is Incredibly & Unbelievably Fasst, very well engineered, machine, and handling is Not of this world!
My 2.5L Subie/Porsche is my cheap alternative to his very high $$$$ machine.
It handled really well with the old engine and old worn out parts before i rebuilt the car.
I still have the wiring to complete
He wont let me stand to close as i drool all over it
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99354#p99354:3e5qffh6 said:82a » Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:47 am[/url]":3e5qffh6]
:shock:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99353#p99353:3e5qffh6 said:opcorn:
- Joined
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1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99361#p99361:1qigrn8z said:westgl » Fri Oct 11, 2013 3:04 am[/url]"
My brother is Very rich, he has a Audi R8 with every option, it is a work of Art!!! that is Incredibly & Unbelievably Fasst, very well engineered, machine, and handling is Not of this world!
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99354#p99354:1qigrn8z said:82a » Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:47 am[/url]":1qigrn8z]
:shock:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99353#p99353:1qigrn8z said:
When travelling down the autobahn at 180kph it was amazing how quickly an R8 would close the distance when the are travelling at 300+ :moped:
There are a few WRX STI 914's out there and a few 911's too. 500 HP in all wheel drive.
I know ive been slow on this thread :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: now that a carb has showed up ....ill be on the move :smilie_happy: :builder: :mrgreen:
