Stator bad?

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129888#p129888:3tfyyprp said:
clothednblack » Sun Aug 31, 2014 4:41 pm[/url]":3tfyyprp]
Ok, from each wire (positive from meter and negative to ground) I get 9.0 on all 3.
From lead to lead 1-2,1-3,2-3 I get 0.
The 3 yellow wires you should use the AC on the voltmeter, black probe to one yellow,positive probe to another yellow bike running, you will read AC volts, should be at least 50V AC if I remember right.
You need to do all 3 wire combination and get about the same reading from.
 
Thank you Dan.
I ran the test again
. 4 is what I get on all of them.
Looking further into the wires, someone had respliced all 3 of them and used solder, is it possible that they were connected wrong? If so, is there something that shows what wire goes to which one?

This was while not running
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129899#p129899:2lyah5wr said:
clothednblack » Sun Aug 31, 2014 5:59 pm[/url]":2lyah5wr]
Thank you Dan.
I ran the test again
. 4 is what I get on all of them.
Looking further into the wires, someone had respliced all 3 of them and used solder, is it possible that they were connected wrong? If so, is there something that shows what wire goes to which one?

This was while not running
Doesnt matter with the yellow, do a running test with the yellow wires.
 
The three wires can go to any of the three wires from the rectifier.. doesn't matter as rectifier will solve that issue.. the reds and black and or green shouldn't have any of the yellers connected..
 
With all theses stator tests (static or with the engine running at revs) you must separate the stator wiring from the r/r . If the bullet connectors/ 3 pin plug have been soldered then you need to brake that circuit. On a 1200 you could also test the phases at the r/r connection.
 
Joep":xhktgjt7 said:
The three wires can go to any of the three wires from the rectifier.. doesn't matter as rectifier will solve that issue.. the reds and black and or green shouldn't have any of the yellers connected..
Ansimp":xhktgjt7 said:
With all theses stator tests (static or with the engine running at revs) you must separate the stator wiring from the r/r . If the bullet connectors/ 3 pin plug have been soldered then you need to brake that circuit. On a 1200 you could also test the phases at the r/r connection.

The original wires are yellow, then someone spliced in red, then back to yellow. I cut the solder connection and did the non running test and got . 4 there isn't any bullet connectors.
As soon as I'm done with dinner, I will connect t them back and test while running
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129901#p129901:13jgql4s said:
clothednblack » Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:06 pm[/url]":13jgql4s]
Ok, I need to reconnect the three wires first, then I will test
The 3 yellow wires have to be disconnected to do the 50V AC test, It is OK to disconnect them and run the bike while the test is done.
 
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Variance in the reading could be due to changing ground connection unless you used a clamp to hold the ground in place for all three readings. Idle was steady around 1300 rpm? Static test of each wire to ground using 20k ohm setting,yellow wires disconnected was it zero?
 
slabghost":2x9l0pub said:
Variance in the reading could be due to changing ground connection unless you used a clamp to hold the ground in place for all three readings. Idle was steady around 1300 rpm? Static test of each wire to ground using 20k ohm setting,yellow wires disconnected was it zero?

Ground was solid during all three, settings for 20k was at 0 for all 3 and rom was just below 1300 but steady for all 3. This was with all 3 disconnected
 

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