1985 LTD 2018 Fall Work Period

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This engine had better work well when I'm finished, but stranger things have happened.

Did some more cleaning today. Polished up the air intakes:
Air Intakes.jpg


Cleaned some of the air chamber. Some of the o-ring, cover gaskets and hoses are no longer available. Will be doing a run to the local hydraulic shop to source some less expensive products. Cleaned the gasket from the air chamber cover. Think this is a square gasket. Also noted that there is supposed to be a gasket between the air filter case and the air chamber cover that has not been there - ordered this one.

Have looked more closely at the air chamber cover and air filter cover. Even though I have butchered the air chamber cover to get the air filter case off so as to take out the air chamber, I do believe I can come up with a suitable fix. Possible drill down and through use bolts and nyloc nuts to secure the air filter case. Should be easy enough to do.

Had a closer look at the IAC system and reed valves. I had mentioned in one of my electrical/FI posts a while back that I would do a thread on this system. I now understand what is happening and will do so. Along with this will be a short mention regarding the Fuel System light on the dash - the '85 and '86 FI bikes "Check Engine" light.

This is the time I do not like the most, cleaning and waiting for parts to put the bike back together again. Patience is a virtue I guess.

More to follow.

Cheers
 
Mike - Yes, I have the same screw situation as you. I had read your thread(s) before, this is a good review.

Here are pictures of what I did to the cover and case, Father always said if you're going to do it, do it right the first time.

Air Chamber cover holes:
Air Chamber Cover Holes.jpg


Air filter case holes:
Air Filter Case Holes.jpg


I was able to save the three air filter case screws and nuts - have one good still usable.

Going to go down to Industrial Plastics - this company specializes in all things plastic, and more exotic including glues. I like the fix you did as well. Did you take pictures of the end result?

Thanks for the info.

Cheers
 
The picture I posted is after the repair. Before the repair the holes were wallered out oversize. I actually had to "clean" out the mess left with a drill bit, using hand (didn't need it to go through the cover) to remove some of the melted plastic so the inserts would fit properly. I didn't leave the hole walls smooth (like a normally drilled hole) figuring that the roughness would give the hot glue something to 'grab'. I'm still convinced that cover is poly, it only reacts with heat, no glues would attach to the cover, they would just pop off with a little pressure. That's why I used the hot melt glue.
 
I know it's a plastic product because it reacts very quickly to heat. To take the stuck screws out - nut and all, I used a dremel tool and the action of the dremel on the screw created enough heat to pull the screw and nut out.

Like the glue gun, low tech but effective.

Have time to get at this as the head gasket set has not arrived. I get bored doing the same thing to completion so I have some small projects such as cleaning, searching for o-rings, a bit of wiring, and such so I can change work to keep interested.

Thanks again. Cheers
 
Something like that might work, since you have it apart. I wasn't looking to disassemble that far, if I didn't have to :)

Yea the 2 screws were "melted" out of the cover with a drill/driver and leveraged up and out. I figured a ham fisted mechanic over tightened the screw to the point that the screw shoulder "locked" against the nut 'shoulder'. I advise only hand tightening these screws, otherwise they may lock together again. There is little to no real forces on these screws, it just holds the box and cover together.
 
In my case I'm the ham fisted mechanic. Had the air filter case out a couple of times, but the last time I guess I was a too enthusiastic. I also find a little never seize is a good thing as well.

I have the air chamber out for this and so I could have a look at the idle air control (IAC) system that is used on start to supply combustion air for the fast idle and during engine operation when the throttle plate(s) are closed quickly. I tried to find a good explanation of the IAC system, but never found a good succinct one. Between what I have read and what I now see, I have a much better understanding. Also found the hoses connected to the reed valves are severely cracked and need replacing.
 
Now I have to get serious about the work, just received the gasket kit to install the heads.

Want to renew the valve cover bolt rubber grommets as well as the timing cover rubbers. Have to source the throttle body o-rings - should be able to get at the local hydraulic shop. Have one head left to clean, and need to do do the air cleaner case securing arrangement.

Then I can get on with the electrical. Might as well do as much this winter.

Cheers
 
Ordered the rubber grommets this morning. Cleaned up the second head. Always thought there was a groove between the exhaust outlet and where the exhaust header gasket was. I was wrong - the ridge was carbon buildup - go figure.

Tomorrow will be visiting the local hydraulic shop for o-rings and looking for vacuum and air hos. Taking parts with me to make sure of the fit.

Cleaned up the exhaust/intake valves. Scraped carbon deposits off the valve faces and the backside of the exhaust valves.

Have the engine timing mark in place.

Have the timing inspection adapter. There are two plastic viewing pieces, but these do not stay in place:
Timing Inspection Adapter.jpg
Anyone used this item, and have insight into how to fix the two plastic pieces. The supplement for the '85 LTD FI model mentions how to check the timing, much like doing the older cars. Going to borrow a timing light from my brother when I'm home - may be a permanent loan.

The cylinder block is clean and flat, so it's a go.

For all you engine rebuild aficionados, how did you secure the timing pulley(s) as mentioned in the manual? There is a pulley holder, P/N 07925-3710200. I would think this is critical to getting the timing marks lined up. Thoughts?

There are oil seals on the ends of the camshaft. It mentions to coat the outer edges with a sealant. Thoughts?

Not going to start the install of the heads and such until I get back from visiting Mom in Ontario in a couple of weeks. Getting in and out before it's too cold and the snow flies and stays.

Cheers
 
In case you've never done them, let the cover gromets soak for about 5 minutes in HOT water and they will soften enough to make removal of the old and installation of the new a breeze.
 
Thanks for the info. Will be installing new, gone this far - $35.00 CDN for 12 delivered - not bad. Set of 12 for a 1500, same size for the 1200. Need 12 - 8 for the valve cover gaskets and 4 for the timing cover gaskets.

Picked up all the hoses needed for the vacuum and IAC systems. $35.00 CDN for the lot, also a good deal. Been working on this a bit to get the air chamber ready to go back on.

Looked at the gasket set. There are some extra pieces, guess that can be expected. Had to file the two outer top bolt holes to get the gasket to fit over the dowel pins on the one side. Checked around the piston cylinder and all is good. Compared these aftermarket to the OEM originals. Extremely close considering the OEM originals are a bit deformed from coming off after 34 years - seem to be a similar weight as well. These will go on dry as per the OEM instructions. Will be able to install the left cylinder head before I go to Ontario.

Left cylinder will have to wait as I noticed that I am missing a head dowel. These are available from Honda - two on order. Checked the oil control orifice for new o-rings. The small o-rings are in the gasket set, the larger one is not - have two of thee larger o-rings on order.

The timing cover heat shield gaskets are in the kit but I think I need two more and these are not available. Need one for the Gr/Gl sensor install and the small chrome cover on the aft end of the left cylinder. Will have to make. These are not critical for thickness so not concerned.

There appears to be water pipe o-rings in the kit, but have four from Honda so will use the Honda o-rings for the water pipes.

Had to go to the local hydraulic shop for throttle body o-rings, same place I got most of the vacuum/air hoses from, picked up 8 - will use four and have four spares.

Been a good day. Of to a curmudgeon's meeting down town. Bunch of ex-naval engineers getting together to dissect the world as it is and put it back together so it works right!! :music: :music:

More to follow.

Cheers
 
Coffee break time. Since I'm waiting for parts, getting some of the ancillary items finished.

IAC system new clamps and hoses. Used the old hose going from the reed valves to the IAC valve because it is formed to fit.

New vacuum hoses installed as well. Took the cruise filter off, needs new foam.

Starting to look at the wiring. I'm never satisfied with the routing and not having wiring in a taped type harness, and since I have added several strands for various mods, like to keep it clean and neat.

Talked to a local machine shop about giving the heads a skim to ensure flatness. $60.00 CDN per head, guess this is pretty good considering there is not a lot of choice here on Vancouver Island. Off to Ontario to visit the family before Xmas so I will deliberate during this time. In one day out the next.

All these little items do take up one's time, but will be worth it in the end.

Already thinking of next winter and what I should have as a project. Would like to take out the engine, remove the back end and clean from the trip up island this past summer when I used the bike as an adventure bike. GWs do not make good off road bikes. Also want to have a good look at the FD, check the backlash and adjust as necessary.

More to follow. Cheers
 
Spent the rest of the afternoon removing some items to get better access to the wiring. It's a rats nest, but has served me well to date. Did the other '85 from Ontario with half the wires. Will be getting into this before the bike is on the road again. Won't be to difficult, just have to remember what I did and where everything goes.

Here's a good pic of the wiring at this point:
Wire 4.jpg


Gerry will probably relate to this.

Cheers
 
I remember what I have done, just trying to figure out how to minimize the number of runs. What I did was install appropriate wiring for each item added, but I never consolidated the power/grounds such that more than one item would be powered from the same wiring. It would also be easier if the front fairing was off, but don't know about that.

Have seen worse.

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207046#p207046:1zpd1e8b said:
Rednaxs60 » Tue Nov 06, 2018 7:55 pm[/url]":1zpd1e8b]
Spent the rest of the afternoon removing some items to get better access to the wiring. It's a rats nest, but has served me well to date. Did the other '85 from Ontario with half the wires. Will be getting into this before the bike is on the road again. Won't be to difficult, just have to remember what I did and where everything goes.

Here's a good pic of the wiring at this point:

Gerry will probably relate to this.

Cheers
file.php
I sure can! One wire at a time and any of it can be narrowed down. :good:
 
Hey! Forget about the wiring:

Off to a curmudgeon's meeting down town. Bunch of ex-naval engineers getting together to dissect the world as it is and put it back together so it works right!!

Did you guys fix the world as we know it?
 

Latest posts

Top