1985 LTD 2018 Fall Work Period

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207308#p207308:1gclvrjo said:
Rednaxs60 » Fri Nov 16, 2018 12:02 pm[/url]":1gclvrjo]
Sitting here in the frozen north browsing Amazon, Maxsold (auction site), and others. Looking at the expandable braided sleeving to protect the new vacuum hoses that I have installed ( blaming this on Gerry as well). Most black sleeving is sold in inch diameters, but found a sleeving that has the diameter in mm and is in all sizes: https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell%C2%AE-uxce ... eving&th=1

Like the colour considering that Honda used a red sleeving on the original hoses. Think I need some more TESA style cloth tape as well.

Cheers
Click to expand...

:smilie_happy: Yep, my fault for sure. :smilie_happy:
 
The threads on this and the other forums have been extremely helpful in refurbishing my '85 LTD and will be the same for the 1500. Good ideas and ways to do the work are invaluable with these older GWs. It's been a bonus to be able to use the ideas that you and others have, and to have a reference for parts and pieces. The old girl is appreciative as well.

Cheers
 
This being in the frozen north and away from the bike has allowed me to think about what I am doing and will do in future work periods.

Since I have the 1500 to ride, will be taking the front fairing off to finish the wiring cleanup and look into the self cancelling signal light system, want it back. Heads will be ready for install. Motor to get a good wash/cleaning. Fix air chamber and air filter - mentioned that the screws were turning in situ.

Been looking for and researching 1200 engine rebuilds. Lots of information regarding 1000/1200 engines, rebuild or replacement, but not the 1200. Same process/procedures, but the part(s) alternatives are slightly different. Have looked for 1200 FI engines and these are not as plentiful as those for the carb models.

Rings I'm not too concerned about, should be able to source a set of Honda or auto rings that will fit, such as those canuckxxxx used on his. Even if the rings are slightly over sized, can adjust the end gap to suit - looked into how this is done.

The con rod and crank bearings are more challenging. The sizes are colour coded as most know. The "brown" bearings seem to still be available.

Checked the thickness difference, all the bearings will fit in the con rods and crank just the thickness of the bearing shell is in question.

The difference in con rod bearing shell thickness form largest to smallest is 1.994 mm to 2.014 mm, a difference of 0.02 mm. This difference is spread over 5 different bearing shell thicknesses. The brown bearing shells are the middle shell and are 2.002 mm to 2.006 mm in thickness.

The difference in the crank shaft bearing shells is similar. From largest to smallest is 1.491 mm to 1.511 mm, a difference of 0.02 mm. The brown bearing shells are the middle shell and 1.499 mm to 1.503 mm.

You would of course plastigauge before final installation. Oldfogey of wingovations has good information regarding this concept at: https://www.wingovations.com/crankshaft- ... 4593202522

I'm in agreement with him.

Enough pontification for this morning. Lovely cool morning, light snow falling, quite pretty. Still not moving back, but do appreciate the snow for the short time we are here. Pretty bad when two people from a more temperate climate think that -4 deg C is rather balmy weather.

Cheers
 
Been perusing the different forums and threads regarding 1200 engine rebuilds. Have two threads from this forum, one by canuckxxxx: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9872&hilit=gl1200+piston+rings The second thread is by bronko37: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=10690

There are several others that compliment these two. The information is very good and has provided a lot of insight into a 1200 engine rebuild.

Some good videos are out there as well by bronko37 and Maurice Gardiner. Maurice Gardiner videos are: viewtopic.php?f=76&t=7543&p=110235#p110235

Talked to my parts guy in Victoria and there are con rod bearings available, the "brown" middle of the road ones. Need 8 and these are $20.00 CDN a pop. Intend to search the web for possible alternative(s), and pricing - remembering that we of the north have an exchange and sometimes a duty issue.

Canuckxxxx did mention the size of the crank journals and has a post on his thread regarding this question - page 26 post #389. His piston ring post is #434 page 29.

Also looking for a source for the primary drive chain, P/N 23131-463-003.

Doing my homework, but this will also be dependent on the engine compression when I get it back together early in the new year.

Been a good break from working on the bike and the weather outside.

Cheers
 
Back in Victoria, supposed to be nice the next week, touching 0 deg C in the mornings, but going up to 9 or so deg C during the day - I have heated clothing. :music: :music:

Battery will be hooked up on the 1500 this morning for riding this weekend, and I'll be getting back at the 1200.

Cheers
 
Took the front fairing off this morning to finish up the wiring. Figured out how the connectors are secured to the front fairing. Not a lot of room to have a look see.

Should have the wiring completed this week. Intend to do the numbering again so that I have a record of what goes where.

Going to check the signal light circuit so that I get self cancelling signals back. I look at it and wonder if it will ever go back together again:
Front Fairing Off.jpg
:music: :music:

I also found another ground point in the front. There is a ground point just forward of where the original RR was:
Ground Point 1.jpg
. The other ground point is on the right side of the bike up forward:
Ground Point 2.jpg


Have a stripped screw head that holds the right air joint on the upper triple tree. Not a big issue, and do not have to remove at this time.

More to follow. Cheers
 
Still working on the wiring, lots of room now that the front fairing is off.

Picked up the heads today, shop did a good job. Nice and clean, now I have to do the bike as well, damn.

The shop wrapped them and had cardboard against the resurfaced base:
cylinder head on bench.jpg
The resurfaced head:
Cylinder head resurfaced.jpg
The exhaust ports were hard for me to clean, but the whole head and the ports are very clean:
exhaust port cleaned.jpg


Going to clean and possibly paint the head covers. Wilcoy02 detailed the process, going to try his.

More to follow. Cheers
 
Will be putting the heads on this week to button the inside up. The guys at the machine shop did a good job. There is one machinist who is 61 and loves working on bike parts. Not a lot of younger people jumping onto the machinist bandwagon.

The wiring is coming along nicely, the TESA cloth tape is helping to make a nice wiring loom. With the front fairing off routing of the wiring that I have installed is much easier. I am also taking apart some of the OEM wiring and wrapping with the TESA tape.

Have some dash lights out. Any thoughts on replacement?

Once I get this work done, the bike should be a treat to use. The last issue I will address is the "clunk" when starting off in first. Will be checking the backlash and such in the new year. Have my Dad's dial indicator to do this check.

My friend of many years thinks that once I'm done with this work, the bike will be good for many years and kilometres. I agree and it will be much easier to work on than the 1500/1800 variants.

Life is good, roads are bare and riding the bike late morning early afternoon is a treat. Cheers.
 
Bit cool this morning riding to coffee, apparently -3 deg C, thought it was warmer. Refreshing ride and I was out all morning.

Installed the heads, look good. Put the plugs back in and taped the intake and water ports to keep crap out:
Heads Installed.jpg
Used new dowels, lost one of the old ones. New is always good when doing this type of work.

Makes me feel that I am making progress. Will be working on the wiring before any more mechanical work.

Cheers
 
Was thinking about the leak down test that I want to do. Should be able to do the leak down test before putting the air chamber back in, or anything else on. This way don't have to determine when the valves are closed, just make sure the pistons are at top dead centre. The rings are the only other issue when it comes to compression and want a warm and fuzzy that all is well. One comment from my brother was that back in the day when we did an engine rebuild, if you do the top end, you do the bottom end as well, or you will eventually. Understand this for the rings, but as Tony has mentioned, these are very robust engines and new mains and con rod bearings generally do not need to be replaced. Besides, only a few of these bearings exist.

Bronko37's thread: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=10690 is a good tutorial if the rings have to be done. Read through his thread, extremely informative. Have bookmarked several others that will be of assistance as well if needed.

Cheers
 
Have looked into the different styles and light beams of driving lights. Found a thread over on the GWDocs forum about 10 degree spot beam lights. Looked on line and found these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B077FV5RD6/ref ... 00_TE_dp_1

Going to trial on the 1200. Here is a pic of the flood LED light(s) and the new 10 degree spot lights:
10 degree driving lights.jpg
Like the look of the smaller lights, more elegant so to speak. If these new light work out, will look into getting similar 30/60 degree spot lights and replace the lower flood lights. The lower lights will be to illuminate the road side.

Will also be putting a set on the 1500.

Cheers
 
Without intake or exhaust manifolds, if you pressurize with a bit of light oil in the cylinder you should be able to both see and hear a leak. Can be at TDC or BDC.
 

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