1985 LTD 2018 Fall Work Period

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Will try this. The intake/exhaust valves should be well sealed as these were machined. The fellow that did the work has been doing it for some time, well over 25 years and generally works on HDs. I'm pleased with the work. I'm hopeful all will be well.

The leak test kit I have uses approximately 13 PSI to do the test. Will do it at this pressure first on all cylinders. Don't expect to hear air coming out through the crankcase at this pressure. I will then take the second gauge off the unit and use 100 psi air pressure and see what the outcome is.

Cheers
 
Devize a way to hold the crank from rotating by the air pressure. I pressure tested Susie’s 1200 motor while in the frame. The ratchet handle on the stator bolt damn near broke my finger when the crank rotated backward. After that I wedged the ratchet handle against the frame.
 
Hadn't thought of this. I only used approximately 13 PSI to prove the exhaust valves were leaking like a sieve. Now that I can use a higher pressure, will have to come up with a game plan. I can also put a strap wrench on the crank pulley where the timing belts go on. Will take the pressure up slowly to ensure I have the crank immobilized. Thanks for the heads up.

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207714#p207714:3mhect18 said:
pidjones » 38 minutes ago[/url]":3mhect18]
That's why it is better to do it with that cylinder at BDC!
Good point. I hadn’t thought of that!

Simple things overlooked. That’s me.
 
Deja vu, was thinking about this very issue and that with the piston at BDC, lessens the probability of motoring the engine.

Easy to overlook, most information on doing the leak down test mentions TDC.

Regarding the wiring cleanup, went looking for the wire number markers, couldn't find or remember where I put them. Ordered some from Amazon, and of course, found the ones I already had. Won't go to waste.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207714#p207714:2cde71w2 said:
pidjones » Sun Dec 09, 2018 12:27 am[/url]":2cde71w2]
That's why it is better to do it with that cylinder at BDC!
:good:
 
Wiring, seems like a broken record, but it is getting done. Started to put new wire number markers on. Use marine grade wire when I can, have a lot of standard automotive wire to use up as well. It is much more pliable, and corrosion is not an issue. Gerry will appreciate this being a boater and all:
Tinned Wire.jpg
 
Have been working on the wiring and progressing. Always find a better way to route the wires. Think I have it sussed out. Have taken a break, and started to detail the valve covers. They needed to be dished up. Used Wilcoy02 recommended procedure - slightly modified to suit what was available. Works well, but a lot of elbow grease and time.

Here are a couple of pictures. Have one valve cover cleaned and ready for the compounds. Side by each to show difference. There are a few nicks that I will not get out, too deep.

Valve cover top:
VV%20Cover%20Top.jpg

Valve cover side:
VV Cover Side.jpg


Once I use the compounds expect the valve covers to be quite presentable. Looking into a clear coat as well, haven't found too many favourable comments on doing this.

Merry Christmas to all and have a safe and happy New Year.

Cheers
 
Dan - not too many, you probably won't notice unless you get real close. 200 percent better.

All the best to you and yours in this holiday season. Merry Christmas and have a safe an happy New Year.

Cheers
 
I can be pretty anal about detailing, but if it were me, I believe I might source another valve cover and detail it out. That bike is going to be too nice and I always fixate on defects. Often, I might be the only one who knows they're there, but making them go away is always nice.

... But your secret is out. We all know as you aired your dirty laundry! (truthfully, it will look fine as it is).
 
It's meant to be on the road and enjoyed. Didn't buy it to park it in the garage and look pretty. As long as it starts and goes when I want it to, and my friends on their new/newer bikes can keep up, all is good! :music: started on the second valve cover, starting to look good as well.
 
I log an awfully lot of road miles on my Valkyrie. It's a "newer" bike ... 1997. But, it has been well looked after and only sports a couple of the aforementioned "subtle" defects. It only takes a little extra care not to add slight blemishes which last the lifetime of the motorcycle. And all those defects, "patina" if you will, add up.

I like for my bikes to reliably take me where I want to go, as well. But, I also like them to look their best while doing it. I do a single deep clean each season and touch ups after long rides or as grunge reaches critical mass.
 
Hear you on this. Bringing a bike back to as close to original condition takes a while as you and most others know. Been working on this "project" for three years now and every work/maintenance period the bike gets more cosmetic TLC and looks better each time. Used it for an adventure bike this past summer and got quite a bit of fine dirt in places I can't get to easily. Next winter I think my project will be to take most of the main parts off and clean everything.

Merry Christmas, and have a safe and prosperous New Year.

Cheers
 
Got the TESA cloth tape the other day. These rolls were not supposed to be here before end Jan so I ordered one from Amazon Prime. Day after I ordered the tape, the three rolls arrived - go figure.

Doing some wiring tape up, almost done. Want to put the fairing back on and test the circuits before final taping and securing.

Finished the pre-clean of the valve covers. Not show room condition but still 200 percent better:
Clean%20-%20Ready%20for%20Compound.jpg
Little more work to do then compound and on shelf for install. Going to look at the passenger for mounts for a clean up as well. Thinking about a few other items that could benefit from a good clean/polish.

Thinking next winter, a strip down and clean would be in order. Get it closer to original condition each time.

Small steps forward, and with the 1500 to ride, there is no rush. Should have it back on the road for end Feb. Need it for our trip up to Alaska this summer. Sonya and I had talked about different trips to do, and she mentioned doing the Alaska trip this summer.

Cheers
 
Been polishing up some pieces and doing some of the work I want to get done. Not show room but much better - I like the look. The polishing of the valve covers, IAC valve cover, Gr/Gl sensor covers (on the end of the right cylinder head), and the front forks is done:
Parts completed.jpg


Took the front forks off to get at a stripped screw holding the air equalizing unit on. It was easy to remove the screw once I got the air equaling piping to turn. The screws that I was able to get have a hex drive instead of the JIS Phillips. This should prevent further stripping of the screw(s):
Stripped screw.jpg


Wiring, keeps coming up, is almost completed. Have installed a USB connection on the rear trunk. This will allow Sonya to power her communicator if necessary. I mentioned that I want to install a GPS unit in the rear for her to use, this will provide the power to the unit:
USB.jpg
 

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