I admire your work and the level you strive for
1985 LTD 2018 Fall Work Period
- Thread starter Rednaxs60
- Start date
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OP
OP
Thanks Joe. I have to say it is more an ongoing project where I come up with a better "mouse trap" that I should try. Have to keep the brain box energized as well, wards off all kinds of demons I've heard.
Cheers
Cheers
If you loose a nut in the fairing, try a flexible magnet tool. I've lost a nut in there before, not fun! Got lucky retrieving the nut, fishing blind :fishin:
OP
OP
I think I'll wait until next work period to get at the nut I dropped. Have done a work around.
Purchased two sets of spot driving lights for my two bikes. One is an inexpensive set with a spot beam of 10 degree spot beam at $23.00 CDN:
and a more expensive set from the local BMW dealer at almost $200.00 CDN for the pair - got $70.00 off, Christmas sale:
.
Came well packed and no instructions in either. They have the same size lens, but when turned on the less expensive lights have a yellowish colour compared to a more white colour from the more expensive lights. Both are well made with aluminum casings:
The $22.00 pair have an integral base for securing, whereas the more expensive lights have a separate piece that is connected to the light with a screw, then connected to the securing bracket. Both lights have the same securing bracket:
Did a very scientific trial in the garage to check out the beam pattern. The more expensive lights have a very tight spot beam, and both lights appear to be equal in illumination:
The less expensive lights have a wider spot beam, but should illuminate the road ahead and not just to very near front and sides:
I was surprised at how the camera sees an image. I did not see the clarity of the spot beam for the higher priced lights except when taking the picture. The less expensive light beams do not appear to be identical compared to the more expensive lights - one appears weaker.
When I was assembling the more expensive lights I found the fit of the body connector to the light itself was not as tight as I want. It actually moves a bit. Will have to shim it ever so slightly to make it a firm fit.
I'm thinking that having the more expensive lights with an inexpensive set of say 30 or so degree lights would illuminate the road ahead quite well.
All for now. Cheers
Purchased two sets of spot driving lights for my two bikes. One is an inexpensive set with a spot beam of 10 degree spot beam at $23.00 CDN:
Came well packed and no instructions in either. They have the same size lens, but when turned on the less expensive lights have a yellowish colour compared to a more white colour from the more expensive lights. Both are well made with aluminum casings:
The $22.00 pair have an integral base for securing, whereas the more expensive lights have a separate piece that is connected to the light with a screw, then connected to the securing bracket. Both lights have the same securing bracket:
Did a very scientific trial in the garage to check out the beam pattern. The more expensive lights have a very tight spot beam, and both lights appear to be equal in illumination:
I was surprised at how the camera sees an image. I did not see the clarity of the spot beam for the higher priced lights except when taking the picture. The less expensive light beams do not appear to be identical compared to the more expensive lights - one appears weaker.
When I was assembling the more expensive lights I found the fit of the body connector to the light itself was not as tight as I want. It actually moves a bit. Will have to shim it ever so slightly to make it a firm fit.
I'm thinking that having the more expensive lights with an inexpensive set of say 30 or so degree lights would illuminate the road ahead quite well.
All for now. Cheers
Nothing like great lighting
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- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
Lighting like that sure is nice!
OP
OP
Went out in the garage when it was totally dark and did the trial again. The light from the less expensive units was much better without daylight. The more expensive ones are still better, but I'm thinking a road test is required to be definitive. The less expensive units do have a spot beam and project out instead of out and to the sides like a flood. Not a lot invested in them so I can play for a bit.
Found another thread on GWDocs about inexpensive driving lights by a fellow here in Victoria that I have met. He has lights that cost about $60.00 CDN and he is happy with them.
Lighting is nice and the better it is the easier it is to ride. Guess it has to do with how much night riding you are doing and where the riding is being done.
Cheers
Found another thread on GWDocs about inexpensive driving lights by a fellow here in Victoria that I have met. He has lights that cost about $60.00 CDN and he is happy with them.
Lighting is nice and the better it is the easier it is to ride. Guess it has to do with how much night riding you are doing and where the riding is being done.
Cheers
- Joined
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- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
I like the extra set of lights on my crash bars which creates a more visible presence during the day. I also like them focused slightly out to the sides as that’s where all the true animal threats come from (think “Skippy”). :mischief:
OP
OP
Keeping the lower flood lights and will angle more for the sides. There's a lot of critters up here to watch out for.
Did some more work today. Have all the OEM style connectors installed. Almost ready to fit the front fairing. Will be changing out the clutch fluid before installing the exhaust. Have to tweak the rad and securing arrangements for the lower fairings.
Have had the engine started in January. Wanted to make sure all the electrics were connected properly.
Exhaust needs to be tweaked as well. Had new exhaust nipples welded to the exhaust headers some time ago and the OD is slightly smaller than the exhaust gaskets.
Looking forward to getting this 1200 back on the road.
Did some more work today. Have all the OEM style connectors installed. Almost ready to fit the front fairing. Will be changing out the clutch fluid before installing the exhaust. Have to tweak the rad and securing arrangements for the lower fairings.
Have had the engine started in January. Wanted to make sure all the electrics were connected properly.
Exhaust needs to be tweaked as well. Had new exhaust nipples welded to the exhaust headers some time ago and the OD is slightly smaller than the exhaust gaskets.
Looking forward to getting this 1200 back on the road.
OP
OP
While I'm in the upgrade mode, think I'll upgrade the grounding a bit. There is a ground to frame connection on the right/left side of the frame up forward. My thoughts are to use 8 GA wire from the right side ground around to the left side ground then a line back to the ground bus I installed when I bought the bike. Grounds are always an issue on older bikes, but have not had any to date. What say the collective: overkill, can't hurt, not necessary. Haven't bought the wiring yet.
Cheers
Cheers
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 10,987
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- Kingsport, Tennessee
- My Bike Models
- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
I am all for a good ground. But 8 gauge wire? Shew, that is big. I thought 10 gauge was plenty big enough for a ground.
OP
OP
I know, bit overkill - my bad, but the ground loop I now have will do a good job. Got some boat cable, nice and pliable and easy to work with.
Years ago, my strength of materials teacher in college mentioned that people in the trades, etc will do work to the standard, which is the minimum amount to meet code and be safe. He mentioned that us JOATMONs (jack of all trades master of none) will generally over build whatever we are doing. He cited many examples of this. I think it will work well.
Will be refreshing the clutch fluid this week, installing the exhaust, front fairing, then starting the engine and setting the idle. When I started the engine in January, idled quite high. Time to get the old girl back on the road.
Cheers
Years ago, my strength of materials teacher in college mentioned that people in the trades, etc will do work to the standard, which is the minimum amount to meet code and be safe. He mentioned that us JOATMONs (jack of all trades master of none) will generally over build whatever we are doing. He cited many examples of this. I think it will work well.
Will be refreshing the clutch fluid this week, installing the exhaust, front fairing, then starting the engine and setting the idle. When I started the engine in January, idled quite high. Time to get the old girl back on the road.
Cheers
OP
OP
Last couple of days have been good. Have been putting more parts on the bike. The exhaust is on and buttoned up, ancillary parts such as covers and levers are on and engine guards are installed. Front end is back together. It's starting to look like a bike again:
Started it up and was pleased with the sound and how it settled out on fast idle. Should have more done this week and road test by end week - maybe. Has a scraping sound on start and shut down. Had this issue with the other 1200 from Ontario and it diminished over time. Think it has to do with how long the engine has been off line.
When I get the fairings back on, will take a video with my cell phone and request some help to post.
Cheers
Started it up and was pleased with the sound and how it settled out on fast idle. Should have more done this week and road test by end week - maybe. Has a scraping sound on start and shut down. Had this issue with the other 1200 from Ontario and it diminished over time. Think it has to do with how long the engine has been off line.
When I get the fairings back on, will take a video with my cell phone and request some help to post.
Cheers
OP
OP
More work done today. Have the front fairing on, electrics all done and connected, alternator back on. Started it up and alternator is good, but have a squealing, metal on metal. Not internal to the engine I do not believe. I have a coolant leak as well. The coolant tubes are not leaking and it is on the right side of the rad (rad cap side). Hose connections are tight as well.
Will be taking the rad off and in for pressure testing. Will have a good look at the front area where the timing belts are. Only area that I can think of where there might be metal on metal contact.
The fuel system light is on. Will be checking TPS calibration. Will do a cylinder bank calibration as well. The idle is way off and when throttle is added, engine "bogs" then takes off.
More to follow.
Cheers
Will be taking the rad off and in for pressure testing. Will have a good look at the front area where the timing belts are. Only area that I can think of where there might be metal on metal contact.
The fuel system light is on. Will be checking TPS calibration. Will do a cylinder bank calibration as well. The idle is way off and when throttle is added, engine "bogs" then takes off.
More to follow.
Cheers
OP
OP
Checked the error codes and it is the TPS out of calibration. Had the rad pressure tested and all is well, no leaks. The rad cap is the culprit. Have bent in the tabs to get a better seal.
Took some time to get at the timing belt covers,clean and polish. There was a lot of road crud embedded in the paint, and the look was ugly. Took the covers down to aluminum again and did a polish. Not quite show room, but quite good. Used sandpaper; 320, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000. Used the "brown" polishing compound with the drill. Used Flitz polish and finished off with Flitz Extreme clear gloss and Surface Protection. Here is when I painted the timing covers:
Down to aluminum and polished:
Like the brushed aluminum look much better. The sealant is supposed to be quite good. The other parts that I have polished and protected with this sealant are holding up well. Will see how it works when the bike is on the road. Here is the sealant:
Cheers
Took some time to get at the timing belt covers,clean and polish. There was a lot of road crud embedded in the paint, and the look was ugly. Took the covers down to aluminum again and did a polish. Not quite show room, but quite good. Used sandpaper; 320, 500, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000. Used the "brown" polishing compound with the drill. Used Flitz polish and finished off with Flitz Extreme clear gloss and Surface Protection. Here is when I painted the timing covers:
Cheers
Looking good Ernest... I am finally putting a new to me instrument cluster on the Interstate. The weather here is still cold but starting to warm a bit. The wrenches are not freezing to my fingers so it is time to get busy..
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Cover looks great.
A pump sprayer applies that clear coat?
A pump sprayer applies that clear coat?
OP
OP
Have seen the Flitz product for years and at the motorcycle show this year. Had a good chat about the product so I purchased it, with the polishing compound as well. It provides a good shine, but I was more interested in the sealant aspect. Will let you know how it works out.
OP
OP
More work today.
Had a revelation regarding the idle being too high and not being able to get it to settle out. When I had the air chamber out, I freed up the throttle cruise cancellation linkage. The cruise cancellation is from the clutch, front/rear brake and the throttle linkage. Freeing up the throttle cruise cancellation linkage caused the throttle linkage to come up against the TPS calibration screw. Once I realized this, and with the TPS needing calibration because of this as well, I have now got the idle close to where it should be. Reducing the idle has caused an error code in the ECU, but will reset the TPS calibration tomorrow. Will have to set the cylinder bank balance as well.
Looked for the "squeal" I am hearing but it sounds more like air pumping/sucking. I did redo the vacuum hoses so this could be the issue. More investigation required. EDIT: Did do the stethoscope routine with my trusty long screwdriver. Checked several locations and the internals are quiet so I will be looking at the air chamber for the noise.
Did a cold compression test. 170/175 PSI on all four. Drastic change from before.
Getting closer to the road test.
Cheers
Had a revelation regarding the idle being too high and not being able to get it to settle out. When I had the air chamber out, I freed up the throttle cruise cancellation linkage. The cruise cancellation is from the clutch, front/rear brake and the throttle linkage. Freeing up the throttle cruise cancellation linkage caused the throttle linkage to come up against the TPS calibration screw. Once I realized this, and with the TPS needing calibration because of this as well, I have now got the idle close to where it should be. Reducing the idle has caused an error code in the ECU, but will reset the TPS calibration tomorrow. Will have to set the cylinder bank balance as well.
Looked for the "squeal" I am hearing but it sounds more like air pumping/sucking. I did redo the vacuum hoses so this could be the issue. More investigation required. EDIT: Did do the stethoscope routine with my trusty long screwdriver. Checked several locations and the internals are quiet so I will be looking at the air chamber for the noise.
Did a cold compression test. 170/175 PSI on all four. Drastic change from before.
Getting closer to the road test.
Cheers
OP
OP
Adjusted the TPS this morning, and checked the cylinder bank balance. When I adjusted the cylinder bank screw, noticed the left side vacuum changed but the right side did not. Not sure why, but will check after I investigate the noise coming from the air chamber.
Got at removing the air chamber today. As soon as I got it on the bench, saw the issue. The air supply hose that is connected to the right side reed valve had come off:
These engines suck a lot of wind so to speak and the sound is quite loud. To ensure the hose does not come off again, used a plastic tie wrap to hold the hose against the reed valve.
Should have it back together tomorrow for another go. Cheers
Got at removing the air chamber today. As soon as I got it on the bench, saw the issue. The air supply hose that is connected to the right side reed valve had come off:
Should have it back together tomorrow for another go. Cheers
