running issue. its got me beaten

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With all that's been done on this motor I don't think I could find the problem if I was looking right at it. Best of luck.
 
cases split, all pistons removed. rings all present and accounted for, all weighed ( although my mechanic mate says its not critical, or not as critical as a v twin ) and within 5 grams of each other. conrod bearings plastigauged for the second time and all good. i did not disturb the crank. nothing loose inside, so all bolted back together.
cases rejoined , so, tomorrow, a bit of a clean up , put the rear case back on and put it back in the bike and then its a case of waiting for the top end gasket set to arrive.
:Egyptian: :Egyptian: what else would i be doing ??
 
Have you measured the valve springs tension? Inner and outer valve springs should each push roughly the same pressure compressed 1/4" further than installed height. I had planned to have a tool made to use a beam style torque wrench to measure mine but the machinist got busy and never made the tool for me.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=135858#p135858:v8m41zge said:
slabghost » Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:31 pm[/url]":v8m41zge]
Have you measured the valve springs tension? Inner and outer valve springs should each push roughly the same pressure compressed 1/4" further than installed height. I had planned to have a tool made to use a beam style torque wrench to measure mine but the machinist got busy and never made the tool for me.
i havent measured the tension on those springs. i did measure the heights and all were the same. it goes back together when the gasket set arrives and if it dont run i will sell it. or give it away. a bloke i know has got a couple of postie bikes. ( so called because they are used by Australia Post ) might do a deal with him and enter a few Postie Bike challenges, where you ride these things across ( or up and down the whole country. ) pic of postie bike...
image.php
 
got the engine all back together. used some copper spray this time on the head gaskets. first time i've used it , suppose it'll be ok. took the carbs back off the LTD ( I put the 75 rack on the LTD so i could refurbish its carbs ) swapped some tyres around , ( all these trips to Melbourne , Bendigo etc are taking their toll. )
also, i have switched the gauges on the 75 , on the last trip the speedo needle started wavering badly, then the whole unit started screeching like a banshee. she's knackered.
managed to strip a bolt on the lower radiator hose fitting , where it bolts to the water pump cover. went down to the bolt place and bought a repair kit, ( the kind with stainless steel thread inserts ) and did both bolt holes while i was at it. terrific repair kit called Power Coil .
ps
no change in the engine. still running rough . i am almost done.
 
Put that motor in something and run it like ya stole it. Beat it. Maybe you can beat it into submission. That's about the only idea I have left for it.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=136560#p136560:2jnzutdp said:
joedrum » Tue Dec 02, 2014 9:38 pm[/url]":2jnzutdp]
sheesh this sucks ....
well, yes ... and no Joe. lots of positives have come out of this so far. i can remove and replace GL carbs in no time flat. also engine removal is a breeze now. i've seen the insides after approx 1000 klms , looks just as i put it together. :smilie_happy: i have been able to compare the Dyna with the C5. (no contest.) i've made a friend down at the bearing joint ( who also sells o rings ) :salute:
i'm betting that the answer is staring me in the face. :doh:

Put that motor in something and run it like ya stole it. Beat it. Maybe you can beat it into submission. :Egyptian: gave that a bit of a crack, on the way back from Echuca a few weeks ago. :moped:
typing this out just now and i'e had another thought ... like, when an alcoholic has a moment of clarity... :whistling: i wonder if having the engine bored and honed .25 first oversize , is enough to play demons with the carb jetting ? :yahoo: here i go again...................
 
hmmmm you might be right aussie i cant remember much but when i had early cams in the 1100 ..i did have to screw with early rack quite a bit ...seems after carbs were sync ..i turned each snyc screw 1/4 turn and the motor got right ...i think your on to something
 
i wonder if having the engine bored and honed .25 first oversize , is enough to play demons with the carb jetting ?

Hmmm....I was under the opinion that these cylinders could not be bored and honed again? (Friend of mine told me that years ago, but I am not sure about that.)

Do you need to sleeve the cylinders after boring or just oversize the rings (or is it the pistons?)
 
there's lots of oversize pistons etc. Honda make them. list of the sizes on CSMNL . .25, .50 .75 and 1.0
mine are .25 over( i think it means 25 thou oversize ) they were hard to find ( oem ) and bloody expensive. there is no problem boring these out. i think it's the crankshaft that can't be ground. but if you have enough money you can do anything. ( thats not me :beg: )
an interesting thing i learned from the machine shop was that HONING is part of the Boring process. ( or should be ). the cylinder is bored to a size just under what is needed, and the final few thou is taken off in the honing process.
i might get a washer under the slides/needles and see what happens. cant hurt . :eek:k:
 
The piston/cylinder oversizes are .25mm, .5mm, .75mm, and 1mm.

Not to put a damper on your latest idea, but my '83 1100 is running great with completely stock and unaltered 1000 carbs. I can't imagine that a 0.25mm larger bore will pull in that much more mixture. There is a 3mm difference between the 1000 and 1100 bores (same stroke).

But...who knows...just my random thoughts...
 
Just another thought...are all 4 pistons installed with "IN" facing up? The valve clearance cutouts are different for the intakes and exhausts, and the pistons might possibly have a small wrist pin offset - I'm not sure on these. Trying to consider all possibilities...
 
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