sand coming out of coolant impeller area?

[dan filipi]

Gees I'll try that next time instead of fighting to scrape that crap off.

 

[83gl1200]

I wouldn't want to sand through an entire gasket. Its easier to get most off with a razor blade or similar method first, but once most of the gasket material is off this is fast and easy cleanup.

 

[chilidawg]

I'm sorry guys, but this is where I have to disagree. I think people are forgetting the whole job of a gasket.

Gaskets are compliant, their very purpose is to take up minor imperfections in the surfaces, I would much rather leave those impossible to get off old gasket marks on there, and let the gasket do its job, than take any kind of grit to an Aluminum surface.

Perfectly flat on a 30 odd year old head takes specialized machinery, and that's just the head, on the block your just kidding yourself, let the gasket do it's job.

Of course, that's just my opinion. But I am a 58 year old, 35 year Engineer.

 

[83gl1200]

You would be right if we were talking about head gaskets on a newer machine, but this case is totally different and not head gaskets. Used 30 year old water pump parts obviously worked on many times, this clearly made it better. Heads need actual machining, esp mls head gasket surfaces, but this just needed to be straightened back up to any reasonable degree for regular gaskets from all prior use and abuse.

In the 3rd world they do use a similar method on heads and blocks though, sans sandpaper, quite successfully I might add.

 

[Ansimp]

83gl1200 » Tue Aug 26, 2014 12:08 pm[/url]":tlfd5ofm]
In the 3rd world they do use a similar method on heads and blocks though, sans sandpaper, quite successfully I might add.

Stop talking about Joe's backyard like that!! :smilie_happy:

 

[joedrum]

well .... its really quite easy take the gasket off leave the aluminum on .... i just use a chain saw..... works fast ...ok for real smart hands hold all kinds of stuff ...smart hands never dig lower then surface of heads ...once that done ...you can ck how the head and block match up by mating together in no light conditions and a pen light where they come together with no gasket in play...... if this looks good your ready for gasket job.... dumb hands can do a lot of damage ......i do use files a lot ... they are fabulous hand mills ... in smart hands

 

[shierh]

I have a large slab of granite that i will sometimes apply spray glue and attache whole sheets of sand paper to it and use that as a surfact to make something flat.

Also I bought some diamond knife shapener flats from Lowes before they are plastic with a metal surface impregnated with diamond dust. They work awesome for honing a surface on an engine. Short flat strokes from 4 directions. paint the surface with a black sharpie and then run the block over it and see if there are high spots.

High pressure surfaces such has a head could be honed using the granite slab but machine work may be a better answer since heads can warp some. you can check warp by using the sharpie method. Block not prone to warp and cant be easily machined therefore flat block method is about all you can do.

 

[83gl1200]

Well after all that my front engine cover isn't even salvageable. Not because of what I did, but because the hole the pump goes into, where the pump o-rings need to seal, has some aluminum missing in spots where it looks like it leaked for years and wore away the metal.. Like a chemical reaction has wore the finish off, no longer smooth. Unless I were to seal the pump in place with some kind of goop, this part is just going to leak again. Doh!

Will a 1980 front engine cover work on a 1200 even though I'd be missing the neutral switch? Gasket is slightly different but looks like it might. I only ask because I have an extra 1980 part.

Chainsaws are good for household remodeling. I used one to install a bathtub in a room where it couldn't fit through the doorway. I used it to cut a hole in the outside wall to fit the bathtub in, and after putting the siding back on and spackling the cut marks you couldnt even tell unless you were closer than 50 feet.

 

[shierh]

jb weld and sand smooth?

 

[83gl1200]

shierh » Tue Aug 26, 2014 12:53 pm[/url]":310ewfp0]
jb weld and sand smooth?

If it were easier to get to and fix again if there's a leak I might try that, but its not easy. Plus the gasket kit I'd risk by trying it is more expensive than just buying a new used front engine cover off eBay. Most look like they're in far better shape than the 1200 one I have and around $25 shipped. But if the 1980 part would work its 25 I don't need to spend, the 1980 part is in excellent condition, no sanding or chainsaws or jbweld needed to fix it.

 

[Ansimp]

83gl1200 » Wed Aug 27, 2014 6:34 am[/url]":vlhuspgn]

shierh » Tue Aug 26, 2014 12:53 pm[/url]":vlhuspgn]
jb weld and sand smooth?

If it were easier to get to and fix again if there's a leak I might try that, but its not easy. Plus the gasket kit I'd risk by trying it is more expensive than just buying a new used front engine cover off eBay. Most look like they're in far better shape than the 1200 one I have and around $25 shipped. But if the 1980 part would work its 25 I don't need to spend, the 1980 part is in excellent condition, no sanding or chainsaws or jbweld needed to fix it.

Pm Steve83 as he is someone that I know has access to both 1100 and 1200 engines atm. I have the 1200 apart but I won't be pulling the Rats Nest apart hopefully for a long time :beg:

 

[dan filipi]

The 1980 has the neutral switch in the side of the engine, 1200 is in the front cover.

 

[Steve83]

If there's any difference in the gasket, I wouldn't try it. It's worth the $25 to know that it's right, plus you'll have a neutral and OD switch.

 

[83gl1200]

Yes the gasket difference is for the bypass coolant small line which isn't used on the 1200. I think I would have had to fill that hole to use this gasket. Forget that, I'll just have to order another cover. I didn't know it had an OD light, I do want that. Damn more delays...

Is it common to have corrosion in the aluminum there where the water pump o-rings need to seat? Wondering about how nice the next one might look in person. I didn't see that this had a problem until that area wouldn't clean up.

 

[dan filipi]

Every cover I've seen has had corrosion there.
Evidently the o rings don't always provide a perfect seal.

 

[83gl1200]

dan filipi » Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:40 pm[/url]":29c5dq0m]
Every cover I've seen has had corrosion there.
Evidently the o rings don't always provide a perfect seal.

What do you do to fix it if you've never seen a good one?

 

[dan filipi]

I clean it down to metal best I can and use new o rings, haven't had a leak yet.
The gasket must stop any leaking.

 

[83gl1200]

dan filipi » Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:45 pm[/url]":1vuq23ib]
I clean it down to metal best I can and use new o rings, haven't had a leak yet.
The gasket must stop any leaking.

Hmmm, well I would need to take off a fair amount of what aluminum is left to get to smooth metal and the worst area looks to be a 1/2" wide shallow river flow under both o-rings and two smaller flows from the three bolts holding the pump that need to seal with crush washers. Under the crush washers on the other side of the cover is eaten up too, I'd have to resurface them also. Too many things look bad on this when only one needs to fail. Most eBay pics show crush washer area free of corrosion but they don't show the whole oring area often enough. Usually just a picture from one angle, with one side you can't see. I'm still looking...

 

[83gl1200]

Found one that looks way better than mine does and bought it. $30 worth the gamble...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/161145152579?

Lucky me every gasket there to fight off again.

 

[Ansimp]

Looks brand new to me. I don't expect you to have any problems with this part as long as it looks as good as in the photos :good: