sand coming out of coolant impeller area?

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129541#p129541:3ad0md42 said:
Ansimp » Tue Aug 26, 2014 7:27 pm[/url]":3ad0md42]
Looks brand new to me. I don't expect you to have any problems with this part as long as it looks as good as in the photos :good:
Thanks. Fingers crossed :beg:
 
After buying it I now see it has a threaded port mine doesn't have on the upper left front as shown in the ebay photo. I'm hoping that doesn't indicate any compatability issue, does it? Water Temp sensor? I don't need that port but maybe it could be useful to tap off later for manifold heat.
 
hmm this might not be good the 84 1200 motor more like a 83 1100 than a 85 1200...i have no first hand knowledge on front cover fit ..but on rear covers they diffidently dont interchange
 
Crap.
Well this first picture is the back of the new one, second and third pic are my current 1200 cover. Can you tell if mine is for sure an 84? If you are looking at the second pic and saying damn, your cover looks like trash, it's because I read online about using oven cleaner to remove gaskets. You can see how well that turned out, I don't reccomend oven cleaner, a chainsaw would have been more useful.

That sensor on the 85 part seems to be oil temp or pressure, it connects to the chamber going to the center of the oil filter area.
 

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It is an oil temp sender on the fuel injected engine, which this came off of. Plug the port, or leave the sender in place. I've bought many parts from Butch (arizona-goldwing-parts), and they've always been in excellent condition. You should be fine.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129561#p129561:6x6riuyk said:
Steve83 » Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:22 pm[/url]":6x6riuyk]
It is an oil temp sender on the fuel injected engine, which this came off of. Plug the port, or leave the sender in place. I've bought many parts from Butch (arizona-goldwing-parts), and they've always been in excellent condition. You should be fine.

I sent him an email via eBay before your post, so we'll see what he says but that sounds promising.
Could I use the port for an oil cooler or something if I wanted too, just wondering.
 
The port gets full oil pressure. I'm not sure about using an oil cooler, since I don't know where the return line would be hooked up, and how it would affect oil pressure.
 
Thanks

Here is his reply for future reference:
Hello, Honda made the GL1200 Goldwing in various models in 1984, 1985, and 1986. In 85 they made a LTD model that was fuel injected - in 86 they changed the name of the fuel injected model to SEI but everything else stayed the same. The front cover (part number 11360-MG9-951) you bought is from an 85 LTD - it is only correct for the 85 LTD and the 86 SEI. All other GL1200 models (Aspencade, Interstate, and the "naked" model they made in 84 only) for all three years (84, 85, and 86) used a front cover with a part number 11360-MG9-010 - I have this part in stock. If you would like I can just send it instead of the one you purchased - the price will be the same as what you have already paid. Just let me know :)

thanks!

Butch

I replied saying it didn't matter if I had the factory correct part number, as long as it fits I'm good with this one since it looked so good and clean. But if this one just won't fit to send one in equally good shape that will fit.

Seems like a good guy, obviously knows his stuff, and was responsive to making it right so I don't think there will be a problem now.
 
His response:
Hello, The one that you've already bought and paid for will fit. I'll go ahead and ship it.

thanks

Butch

Whew! I feel good, I was worried there for a bit... :music:
 
Do you guys know which port in the front cover are for oil going into the heads and engine? Is the port in the center of the oil filter oil going into the motor or out? I'm thinking I could pump some of the new oil into those passages to lube everything before turning the bike over with the starter motor. Its now been sitting open over a week, oil flushed out and diesel that didn't drain... Last thing I need is damaging something else turning her over dry. I read elsewhere the oil doesn't pump well at too low of idle rpm, and I'm thinking even with plugs out the starter motor might not turn fast enough to get oil pumping everywhere.
 
I've no idea at the moment which is pressure from the pump but I'll be looking for it. Best thing would be to pump STP or some heavy oil back into the pump just to be certain it's primed. Then turning it over with the starter and plugs out it should pump plenty.
 
Keep an eye on the oil pressure light to see that it goes out with primed pressure. With the plugs out the engine will wind over fast enough just make sure you don't get too hard on the starter ( 30 seconds or less of winding over, 10 min cooling off period)
 
Also make sure you have plenty of voltage for winding over the starter for extended periods
 
The only difference in the standard and fuel injection covers is the tapped hole for the oil temp sender.

If you really want to prime the system, the oil temp sender is tapped into the oil pressure line. The highest point in the oil passages is the pressure switch, on top of the engine, if you'd rather prime it from there. The oil pump is self-priming, as it sits below the oil level in the crankcase. Don't forget the metal sleeves (dowels) in the oil passages when you replace the front cover.

+1 on spinning the engine without the plugs to prime it. It should only take 5-10 seconds to build up pressure.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129664#p129664:rhodkydv said:
83gl1200 » Thu Aug 28, 2014 3:21 pm[/url]":rhodkydv]
I read elsewhere the oil doesn't pump well at too low of idle rpm, and I'm thinking even with plugs out the starter motor might not turn fast enough to get oil pumping everywhere.

That will prolly depend on the condition of the pump, and the viscosity of the oil. Oil pumps are positive displacement pumps...if it's spinnin, it's pumpin. :good:
Before I start mine, I leave the kill switch ON, and crank it over for aboot 5 seconds or so, then hit the kill switch to fire it up. This primes the oil system, my oil light goes off instantly when it fires up, and there's no rattles. Otherwise, when it fires, it takes a couple of seconds for the light to go out, and I can hear a wee bit of rattling before the oil gets distributed everywhere. Imo, the starter is a lot easier to rebuild than the engine....
:mrgreen:
 
It arrived already and is in great shape, and the gaskets on this one came off really super easily. Night and day difference between how good of shape this one is in and how easily it cleaned up vs the old one.
I'm all set to put this back together as soon as I get the last of the old gasket off the rest of the engine and clean it.

The two large hollow dowells or whatever they are called which fit in two passageways and have o-rings around them seem looser than they should be, but its the same with all the covers I have so I can only assume that's how its supposed to be.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129752#p129752:3sdknfne said:
backlander » Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:30 pm[/url]":3sdknfne]
Vaseline petroleum jelly is your best friend when doing this job.

I couldn't find any Vaseline earlier this week when I was installing my intake, but I did find some lip balm. I knew I'd find a good use for that stuff one day, it worked perfectly :eek:k:
 

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