Single Carb Conversion: Adapt the stock plenum

[joedrum]

I have no idea what im doing to fill holes yet comments welcome :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

I was going to suggest a flat piece of aluminum or steel over the slider hole and screw them down but it looks like those screw tabs are gone already.
Hmm.

How about using a rubber plumbing test plug?
They use a center bolt and wing nut and expand when tightened.
I think they're also made for freeze plugs.

Or, a pvc cap epoxied into the hole.

 

[dan filipi]

Or cut a slider off at the top to sit on top, epoxied in place.

 

[Dave_J]

Joe, you could cut and/or trim up some round brass or aluminum plugs and seal them with JB Weld. I have put a short peice of 3/8's" round bar alumumn in my 1/2 inch drill and spin it while holding some sandpaper or a grinding stone on it till its a tight fit.

The question back about 10 pages or so was the size of the plenum of the stock air box. In stock form it has no effect as a plenum space, it is only designed to help straighten the air flow from the 90 degree bend from the airfilter to the carbs. In the 100 % stock form, the only amount of plenum space is the lower manifold tubes down to the heads. What you guys are building is a single carb "Tunnel Ram" system.

 

[joedrum]

yes ..we are tunnel ram ....hmmm stock slider I like that something I got right here hmmmm....yes ive turned a lot of plugs with drill ....hmmm

 

[Ansimp]

Joe I am impressed with that manual grinder that you are using :yes:

 

[westgl]

Joe I cut off my slider top, I was going to solder it in, that takes care of the big hole then there are four smaller ones that i was going to solder shut

As far as the throttle shaft I was going to cut the shafts for the Throttle and choke into pieces then solder them into place to hold them, and seal the large holes.

That should take care of all the Large holes,

Then i was going to solder every small hole i could find shut.

You are going to use epoxy, just change epoxy for solder.

P1020122

• westgl
• Sep 26, 2013

Going to use slide as slide hole seal

 

[westgl]

Joe you are a Mechanical Savage,

I mean that as a upgrade from just a cave man.

What you have done to those carbs, they do not even resemble a OEM 4 carb.s in any way, that I can see.

I like your Vise too, that gets the job done.

joedrum » Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:15 pm[/url]":2x48qoem]
yes ..we are tunnel ram ....hmmm stock slider I like that something I got right here hmmmm....yes ive turned a lot of plugs with drill ....hmmm

 

[westgl]

I received my Haynes Weber Carburetors Owners Workshop Manual today.

I am suppose to receive my Weber Tech Manual Tomorrow, or Monday

This manual has a lot of good info on the 32DFT and the 32DFTA and 32DFTA1 and there diffrences

 

[slabghost]

joedrum » Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:46 pm[/url]":3d1972rp]

I have no idea what im doing to fill holes yet comments welcome :builder: :mrgreen:

the holes for the slides you could just cut strips of an aluminum can. about an inch anb a quarter by an inch and a half then roll small enough to slide inside. seal with epoxy and finish fill with whatever.

 

[joedrum]

im looking forward to your manuals you have coming westgl .....oh boy this im sure will advance our program big-time ...do you have info on the single carbs you have ..if so ilke to see it if poosible to help jungo with his carb ...hes having leaking problems ...for me today its out to the filling mill ...I need no manual to help me but im feeling I need some help big time this is very laborious .... :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[westgl]

Joe, those carbs look more like a FI throttle bodies than they do a carbs.

 

[joedrum]

I wanted room west ... now I just want to make it to the end ...just kidding I like the way I went ...its just hard work ... :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[westgl]

Joe, we know you dont need this, but someone with less experience may.

Since the 32DFT is different from our OEM4 carb. rack I thought I would post this.

Here is a 32DFT fault Diagnosis.

This Info is pretty generic, and can be used for just about any carb. and is a good starting point if you are unsure what should be done next.

I got the manual for the 32/36DGV information & 38DGAS, and 32DFT info.

One guy wrote that he made a 32/36DGV work by blocking a secondary fuel delivery nozzle, and that got rid of the bog, as he said too mach fuel in the secondary transition, he let the jet only fuel the secondary and blocked the extra fuel squirter.

There are a lot of diagrams, and pictures

I wanted to become more familiar with that carb

32DFT Fault Dianosis 001

• westgl
• Sep 27, 2013

Fauly Dianosis

===================

 

[westgl]

I also bought this Carb manual for the 32/36DCD Carb. info listed.

The 32/36DCD has replaceable chokes, for tuning.

This was another carb. that CM85 said, "Ran very good" on his bike, and that it was more tune-able than the 32DFT was.

I want to look at this carbs break down, and pictures, to understand it more.

It has been a while since I have played with Weber carbs, about 20 years

I had a set of dual SU sidedraft carbs on a toyota 13TC engine in a Corolla, was my last.

I had a VW bug, I built a 2180cc engine w/ dual 48IDA carbs, it was a savage, a scary car, that was not fun to drive if a little rain was on the ground.

I also had a Baja bug 1641cc dual port heads, It had a single two barrel, on it, I changed it to a pair of dellorto single barrel 40mm carbs.

Tires were not as good, then, as there are today.

I also changed out different carbs within the Toyota engine Families, I would use a Japanese only engine, that was larger, usually, different cams and its carb. or switch to my US carb., so it would pass smog then back to the Jap. carb. I had one engine that would not pass smog pulled it put the old engine back in, smogged it then changed engine back, that car was stolen in Longbeach CA. did have to smog it again.

 

[westgl]

I like the 2 cans of Soup and you have enough, tin to fill all the larger holes on those carbs, using the Cans tops & bottoms

 

[joedrum]

well I like the info you posted.... the one guy was like us ..there are many ways to make a carb work ...great stuff west :builder: :mrgreen:

thanks tony most don't know how good a file can cut with smart hands....there are quicker ways but im not heakthy enough to use those methods :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

"Whatchya doin in the shop today honey?"

"Oh just having a couple cans of soup"

 

[skiri251]

westgl » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:10 am[/url]":1aj0v56s]
I also bought this Carb manual for the 32/36DCD Carb. info listed.

The 32/36DCD has replaceable chokes, for tuning.

This was another carb. that CM85 said, "Ran very good" on his bike, and that it was more tune-able than the 32DFT was.

I want to look at this carbs break down, and pictures, to understand it more.

It has been a while since I have played with Weber carbs, about 20 years

I had a set of dual SU sidedraft carbs on a toyota 13TC engine in a Corolla, was my last.

I had a VW bug, I built a 2180cc engine w/ dual 48IDA carbs, it was a savage, a scary car, that was not fun to drive if a little rain was on the ground.

I also had a Baja bug 1641cc dual port heads, It had a single two barrel, on it, I changed it to a pair of dellorto single barrel 40mm carbs.

Tires were not as good, then, as there are today.

I also changed out different carbs within the Toyota engine Families, I would use a Japanese only engine, that was larger, usually, different cams and its carb. or switch to my US carb., so it would pass smog then back to the Jap. carb. I had one engine that would not pass smog pulled it put the old engine back in, smogged it then changed engine back, that car was stolen in Longbeach CA. did have to smog it again.

Wow!

I want to own BajaBug if I get a chance...
With that huge air intake on the roof.
It looks like old Formula One induction box.

 

[joedrum]

well I should have the last runner done tomorrow ... don't look like ill have carbs for awhile yet ..sheesh