Thinking solo seat

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=130150#p130150:33i4u231 said:
canuckxxxx » Wed Sep 03, 2014 11:22 am[/url]":33i4u231]
Here is something I learned about fibreglass. I put strips 1/8" thick x 1" wide foam tape on the underside of my fender and then put a layer of FG on top. Sort of give stiffening ribs which make the piece way stiffer.
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Good trick :good: We have used cardboard tubes, wax straws and even cardboard strips over the years.
 
So I spent today massaging the fender and mounting the TL into the back of the seat pan. I think I am close on the fender. :builder:
fibreglass fender in primer

fibreglass fender in primer

I need to figure out the rear signal lights before I can finalize the wiring harness for the tail light/turn signals. To save money, and so they will match the front turn signals, I am thinking of taking the SL off of the OE tail light assemble and mount them on the sides via the fender bolts. Then I will need to merge the TL wires and the SL wires into the OE plug.
:headscratch:
Brian
new tail light mounted on back of seat 2

new tail light mounted on back of seat 2

new tail light mounted on back of seat 1

new tail light mounted on back of seat 1

 
Well I thought I would try and wrap my mind around making the cowl. I figured the first step would be to make a cardboard template of the shape.
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I am thinking I will get a piece of sheet steel like they use for heating ducts. Cut it out like the template. (Any hints on how to make nice smooth bends?) Attach it to the seat and make a fibreglass mould by putting FG over it. Then use that mould to make the cowl.

This is uncharted territory for me so any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Brian
 
A piece of thin insulation from a building supply and you can form your mold with reinforcement ribs inside. If you use metal . Aluminum flashing forms easier than tin ductwork. Smooth straight bend like you have pictured might be easiest to form around a 4" pvc pipe or the like. If you bend too far just gently spread the edges to fit.
 
Actually now I think a little more on it. A section of 8" pvc cut lengthwise might just build the section you want.
You're welcome.
 
:builder: Well the solution was right under my nose. I have had a piece of 1/16" lexan kicking around my garage for at least 10 years. So I figured I would try it. :builder: :good:

I marked the shape onto the lexan with my template and cut it out with tin snips then sanded the edges. Marked the centre line and attached it with wood screws in the centre front and back. It is very hard to bend, even 1/16" but I worked at it and used more screws to attach it to the seat pan. Because it is so stiff it gives nice smooth bends. :good:

Now I need to lay FG over it to make my mould. Too bad about the screw heads. I will have to fill them in the mould.

Brian

Lexan 2

Lexan 2


Lexan 1

Lexan 1

 
Well I thought I would do a reality check this morning, see if the final product will actually be better than the original. So I made a cowl out of tar paper and taped it on just to see how it would look. :headscratch:

To me it is not as radical a change as I thought. A bit cleaner look. Except for the seat, I have all the pieces to put it back to OEM.

What do you guys think? :fishin:

driveway view

driveway view


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